Moving a shed - Got any ideas?

[cava]

Quite a few years ago (when I was younger) I moved a 3.0mtr x 3.0mtr tin shed from a neighbour’s property across the road to ours. The distance was ~40mtrs.
I used an ordinary removalist type 2 wheeled trolley with ease and tipped it over a 1.8mtr fence into our backyard then moved it ~30mtrs into place.
Balancing the shed on the trolley was the secret in my case. Maybe consider using your car (wife driving) to pull the trolley slowly whilst you balance the shed on it.

[Bushmiller]

I have a ute. I was thinking of bolting a couple of pieces of timber to the bottom of the shed and using them as skis to drag it behind the ute. But the rough old track might shake it apart.

Maybe, same as above, but lifting one end onto the ute, securing that end, and dragging it along. It might still get shaken around too much.

EF

From your first post I see you have a ute. You are on your own land so you don't have to worry about the load unduly other than to make sure it doesn't fall off. Your shed is about square so tilt it up on to the door side and reverse the ute as far back as possible into the shed. place a 75 x 50 or whatever you have across the front of the tray at the headboard. Rock the shed on to this board and then lift the shed up at the back end. Have something handy to support it on if you are unable to take the weight while you slide another batten across the rear of the tray. Yes, there will be overhang, but this won't matter in your situation. I would probably use four G-clamps or similar to hold the battens and shed in place on the tray and drive off slowly.

I have made the assumption ( ) that your ute has a full size tray at 2.3m rather than the small tray associated with a twin cab.

Regards
Paul

[ErrolFlynn]

I used an ordinary removalist type 2 wheeled trolley

That sounds like a hand truck. But you've given me an idea. I could buy a couple of the 4-wheeled furniture moving platforms that are available. They could be useful, generally. Not just a one-off thing for this task, but moving furniture around the place. And yes, using the car has to be considered. It might be the way to do it if I can't lift it onto the ute.

EF

From your first post I see you have a ute. You are on your own land so you don't have to worry about the load unduly other than to make sure it doesn't fall off. Your shed is about square so tilt it up on to the door side and reverse the ute as far back as possible into the shed. place a 75 x 50 or whatever you have across the front of the tray at the headboard. Rock the shed on to this board and then lift the shed up at the back end. Have something handy to support it on if you are unable to take the weight while you slide another batten across the rear of the tray. Yes, there will be overhang, but this won't matter in your situation. I would probably use four G-clamps or similar to hold the battens and shed in place on the tray and drive off slowly.

I have made the assumption ( ) that your ute has a full size tray at 2.3m rather than the small tray associated with a twin cab.

Regards
Paul

This was one of my oringal thoughts. If I can get it up onto the ute it would probably travel best. Though, I was worried about the weight of it. Being able to lift it, that is. Fortunately, I have four excellent tie-off points on the ute. A couple of lengths of timber bolted to them would work. And I also thought of g-clamps but I was thinking of using them to stop the shed sliding sideways during travel. Though, used to secure the shed to the timber would be very useful too (other than putting a rope over it). I might need to extend some kind of framework past the back of the ute to support the trailing end shed. Though, that would depend on how well it's balanced. The tie-off points will force the timbers to be relatively close together. Maybe a third timber placed close to the back will be all that's required, rather than some elaborate framework.

I think to get it onto the track I might need the ski approach, to drag it. The 'skis' would then become my frame for it sitting on top of the ute. All I need to do is find a 40m long rope. I've got some chain and toe ropes. I'm not driving the ute across that stuff. I have a 4wd but it's unregistered at the moment.

[GraemeCook]

Still like the Amish idea, but they are probably rather scarce around Nimmitabel.

Hve you considered enlisting the local football club ..... and a couple of cartons of beer?

[ErrolFlynn]

Still like the Amish idea, but they are probably rather scarce around Nimmitabel.

Hve you considered enlisting the local football club ..... and a couple of cartons of beer?

I like it too. I've had a look at that video several times. The football club is probably a good idea. The trouble is that a lot of them might say something like, "Did you see the game yesterday?" and I might miss the point and say something along the lines that there's no hunting allowed here. I could do the beer but they might want a BBQ as well, which could be okay by me, but they might not welcome the tofu as much as as I do.

[ian]

Errol,
a quick look on Bunnings web site suggests that you LGS weighs around 130 kg -- the package weight is 136 kg, but takeaway the packaging ...

two people using fletty's "old Chinese method" should be able to at least lift the shed, moving it any great distance -- initially you mentioned 100m, but I now see it's more like 300 m -- and across pretty rough ground too.

I suggest your first task is the excavate the shed from the dirt, and at the same time reinforce the four bottom corners of the shed with part of a sheet of 18mm thick MDF cut into 450x450 triangles. Screw the bottom rails to the MDF.

then screw the bottom steel rails to pine 4x2s mounted to the underside of the MDF reinforcing plates -- notch the 4x2s to 18mm so that the steel rails are flush to the corner plates and the reinforcing skids.

next build a pair of cross struts -- use more MDF to reinforce the corners of the cross frame.
extend the cross frame downwards, to accommodate four bicycle wheels.
Mount each wheel on its own axle, rather than using a common axle connecting the wheels in pairs.

at some point in there you should use tie downs to secure the shed to the wheeled frame.

you now have a wheeled frame that one person can move cross country by yourself.


in all that, the challenge will be lifting the shed far enough to get the corners reinforced and the stiffening members installed.
Once that is done, lifting the shed onto four sawhorses can be done one corner at a time.


does that all make sense?

[ErrolFlynn]

Checking out the weight from the Bunnings listing was a novel approach. I never thought of doing that. I’m grateful to you. 130kg might be too much for the two of us to carry. Though, light enough to pop onto the back of the ute, one end at a time. Though, wheeling it across the first 40m would be more desirable than carrying/dragging it across that area. I don’t have a 40m rope that will reach the car to tow it that distance. But, I do have a winch (and a post-hole digger).

You make good points in regard to bracing the shed. That would be a very worthwhile thing to do. I wouldn’t entertain the idea of shifting it without doing that. Good of you to remind me.

I had considered bicycle wheels, and had been scouring Facebook and Gumtree for them without success. Any kind of wheels, actually. Though, probably two wheels might be sufficient, rather than four, as two would permit some steering ability if located in the centre. If I found a couple of wheelbarrow wheels I’d be laughing. Ironically, I located a couple of trailers (one quite large) that were offered as giveaways, but they were located interstate (and unregistered). So, that put paid to that idea.

I’m not going to be able to get to this task for a few weeks. So, I have some time to get things organised.

[ian]

I located a couple of trailers (one quite large) that were offered as giveaways, but they were located interstate (and unregistered). So, that put paid to that idea.

Don't quote me on this, but I believe that an unregistered interstate trailer can be towed to its destination without first being registered if the trailer will be either
1. used solely on private land at its destination -- in your case Nimmitabel or
2. inspected and registered in its destination state.

would be worth checking out the legalities.

[ian]

But given the cost of fuel it might be less expensive to just rent a trailer locally

[ErrolFlynn]

Don't quote me on this, but I believe that an unregistered interstate trailer can be towed.

Oops, I've quoted you.

That would be worth checking (for future reference), but yeah there's the fuel cost. Then there's the thought of why they're giving things away. Don't want bits falling off on the highway. In SA you had to register a trailer but I think in some states the rego of the vehicle covers the trailer. So I was told, but I haven't owned a trailer for years.

I'll keep my eye open for some wheels. Maybe I'll find an old pram dumped at the side of the road. Failing that, dragging it on 'skis' across the rough then lifting it onto the ute to get it along the track will be my first plan. If that fails I'll have to put my thinking cap on. Maybe dragging it behind the ute will work. I could tow it with my snatch strap should one of the skis find a rock and want to stop suddenly.

[BMKal]

you could also try repeating how fletty's moved his LGS


you might be able to move a 2.5 x 2.5 m shed with two people.
It's weight should be manageable by two people. Do the move in stages, say 25 to 30 m each move?

We moved our garden shed from the neighbour's back yard to ours by exactly this same method - four people inside carrying the shed with plant pot hooks and a beer in one hand, and the wife outside giving directions as we moved slowly down the laneway and into our back yard. Apparently was quite distressing to the driver of a car which pulled into the laneway behind us.

[ErrolFlynn]

I don't like the idea of putting a hole through the sheeting to slide a couple of lengths of timber. Your idea of plant pot hooks is so much better. Though, you'd want to wear gloves or wrap something around the end of the hook.

When carrying awkward furniture like bookcases, wardrobes, or even mattresses, (I've done a lot of self-moves) I've often found that threading a rope underneath the thing works well. It allows the item to be lifted and carried without fear of losing grip. Or with the end of the rope slung across your shoulders, the load can be shared between back and arms. And it keeps your back straight during the lift and carry.

[GraemeCook]

... I had considered bicycle wheels, and had been scouring Facebook and Gumtree for them without success. Any kind of wheels, actually. ...

Bigger wheels are far easier to manoeuver on rough ground than smaller ones - hence bicycle wheels.

Bike wheels are really cheap at tip shop - say $5 - with or without the rest of the bike.

[ErrolFlynn]

Nice idea! Yes, I agree. I can appreciate that bigger wheels would be better.

[GraemeCook]

I don't like the idea of putting a hole through the sheeting to slide a couple of lengths of timber. ...

Do not think that that is necessary.

If you reinforce the bottom edges and brace the corners as suggested by Ian, then you can slide the "lifting/moving poles" underneath.

But if the shed weighs 130 kgs and you have six guys, then that is only 22 kgs per person - easily doable. A carton of beer weighs 10 kgs! Eight guys, and you could run with it.