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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2023
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    Melbourne
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    Default Sanding chamfered edge of decking boards?

    I have an old cypress pine deck 30 sq meters of 70mm boards. The boards have been previously stained a dark brown and I've sanded the flat surface ready for a new colour.

    However the boards have a 45 deg chamfer that runs along the length about 5mm wide. There are approximately 750 linear meters to clean if my maths is correct i.e. 80mm spacing over a length of 6 meters and a width of 5 meters double edged.

    I can't find a good method of removing the old stain from the chamfered edge other than manual sanding using coarse sand paper but this is taking so long and I'm sanding my finger tips in the process. I've tried a mouse sander but its too big. Have also tried a flap wheel sanding tool but wrecked it in about five minutes.

    Can anyone suggest a better method of sanding these edges?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Oberon, NSW
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    64
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    0

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    Quote Originally Posted by Nicola09 View Post
    I can't find a good method of removing the old stain from the chamfered edge other than manual sanding using coarse sand paper but this is taking so long and I'm sanding my finger tips in the process.
    I'd just wrap the paper around a short length of picket - maybe a foot long x 1' square. Longer, if you'd prefer to hold the ends of the picket rather than the paper to protect your hands. Drawing pins, tape or staples if you want to affix the paper to the block.

    So long as the boards are level, you should be able to quickly bowl over the chamfers on both sides of the gap simultaneously.

    It's still time consuming and hands'n'knees stuff, but depending on your grit choice (and depth of stain) should only take a few swipes before moving along.


    Another option is to grind the end of a paint scraper to around an 80deg point and use it like a card scraper. This can be also be very quick, depending on the stain type and timber, but if you're not used to card scrapers will probably lead to aching wrists and fingers.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    54
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    160

    Default

    Use a scraper like this one:

    1B304AE1-CA43-4082-B414-B2F68477F847.jpeg

    Alternatively; I have a load of old TCT cutters from a helical headed thicknesser, one of those screwed onto the end of a block of wood would likely enable you to scrape two chamfered edges at the same time if they are indeed 45 degrees and not badly cupped.

    219A1708-256F-4268-9FBD-DB63782E88F3.jpeg EFCE4493-8782-44E4-A949-903DCE584E12.jpeg 2EB5C58F-735C-44C1-B067-B1522AD8BA1F.jpeg

    If you want a couple send me your address via Private Message and I’ll pop them in the post for you.

    And welcome to the forum!
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2023
    Location
    Melbourne
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    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Skew ChiDAMN!! View Post
    I'd just wrap the paper around a short length of picket - maybe a foot long x 1' square. Longer, if you'd prefer to hold the ends of the picket rather than the paper to protect your hands. Drawing pins, tape or staples if you want to affix the paper to the block.

    So long as the boards are level, you should be able to quickly bowl over the chamfers on both sides of the gap simultaneously.

    It's still time consuming and hands'n'knees stuff, but depending on your grit choice (and depth of stain) should only take a few swipes before moving along.


    Another option is to grind the end of a paint scraper to around an 80deg point and use it like a card scraper. This can be also be very quick, depending on the stain type and timber, but if you're not used to card scrapers will probably lead to aching wrists and fingers.
    I've tried the paper around the picket previously but not tried fixing the paper to the block. My son has a stapler so it will be easy to try that.

    The boards are not that level and the gaps between them vary. The deck is old and has had boards replaced. It's all over the place. In hindsight I should have just replaced all the boards but I'm too far down the track.

    At the moment I'm trying some 50mm sanding discs with the cordless and they seem to be removing the stain but the discs get a bit hot and the surface is a bit rough afterwards. Will probably need a finishing sand.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Perth WA Australia
    Posts
    95

    Default

    if you can find one a Festool LS130 is probably what you're after i'm sure it wouldn't take much to modify your mouse sander to do a similar job?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2023
    Location
    Melbourne
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    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Use a scraper like this one:

    1B304AE1-CA43-4082-B414-B2F68477F847.jpeg

    Alternatively; I have a load of old TCT cutters from a helical headed thicknesser, one of those screwed onto the end of a block of wood would likely enable you to scrape two chamfered edges at the same time if they are indeed 45 degrees and not badly cupped.

    219A1708-256F-4268-9FBD-DB63782E88F3.jpeg EFCE4493-8782-44E4-A949-903DCE584E12.jpeg 2EB5C58F-735C-44C1-B067-B1522AD8BA1F.jpeg

    If you want a couple send me your address via Private Message and I’ll pop them in the post for you.

    And welcome to the forum!
    Thank you for the offer of TCT cutters. It is generous of you but I will plug away with my mini sanding disc and the Festool idea.
    I'm hoping to be able to contribute to other sections of this forum given I can't contribute anything regarding wood.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2023
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tonzeyd View Post
    if you can find one a Festool LS130 is probably what you're after i'm sure it wouldn't take much to modify your mouse sander to do a similar job?
    I've taken a quick look at the LS130 and the profile is just what I need. It's started a conversation with my son about how we can modify the mouse sander or 3D print a v grooved block. We will probably spend more time doing this than the original job would take by hand. But more interesting.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Jarrahdale WA
    Posts
    79

    Default

    What's wrong with a tiny sharp block plane? Cleans up fast and leaves nice new crisp edge.

    Around $100 should get you one for the job.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    111

    Default

    I suggest a different solution ... solid paint.
    No more oiling or sanding or fretting over stains ... for the next 10 years.
    Deck & Exterior Timber Paint | Cabot'''s
    “We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
    than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”

    Friedrich Nietzsche


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    NSW
    Age
    38
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    311

    Default

    Long straight edge
    trim router
    V cutter

    just cut the chamfer slightly bigger

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2023
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    6

    Default More advice sought

    I sanded deck and decided to hire a professional.
    I've attached some photos of the finished result and I'd really like some advice. One pic show the sanded deck and my test stains.
    The product used was Intergrain Ultradeck and 2 full 4 litre cans have been used on a 30sqm area. The tradie started deck was started on Tuesday with a 4 litre can of stain but ran out and did not complete a full coat of the deck. Deck is still a bit tacky to the touch.

  12. #12
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    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
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    54
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    160

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    Unfortunately that product is a bit overhyped; I used it on my deck which is roughly the same size as yours and mostly undercover but was not overly impressed. The worst part is the tackiness; it stays sticky/tacky for about a week and even then anything you put down on it needs to be regularly moved around a bit before it sticks itself down permanently. I think I used about 6L or so for mine.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

  13. #13
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    Apr 2023
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Chief Tiff View Post
    Unfortunately that product is a bit overhyped; I used it on my deck which is roughly the same size as yours and mostly undercover but was not overly impressed. The worst part is the tackiness; it stays sticky/tacky for about a week and even then anything you put down on it needs to be regularly moved around a bit before it sticks itself down permanently. I think I used about 6L or so for mine.
    Can I ask if you used 6L in one thick coat or over a couple of applications?

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Bundaberg
    Age
    54
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    160

    Default

    Just one coat.
    Nothing succeeds like a budgie without a beak.

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