Timber Window Renovate Advice

[RobertG1]

Hi All,

I have decided to renovate my front window. Would have loved to replace with new - but the quotes we received were above our budget. I have commenced stripping the paint using 'Peel Away'. Its good stuff but still a pain! And I have uncovered a few issues... See photos below.

Window Photos.pdf

It looks like the design of the window allows for the water to collect in the corners - due to the retro fit of the window to enclose a veranda. As such, the corners are rotting away. I intend to replace the strip on along the length of the window but looking for advise on the following -

1. How do I ensure a good seal on the glass in the corner of the window? When I hose the window, a small amount of water goes inside.

2. What is a good wood filler resistant to rot? Is builders bog OK? Do I need to prep the wood with anything to stop the rot?

3. Any other tips where you think I'll go wrong?

Thanks All!

[ajm]

hey Robert, it seems not all members of the recently closed renovate forum have found their way back here yet. Sad.

I didn't look at your pics (sorry, at work, being sneaky) but would suggest that if water is getting in, some of the putty holding the glass in (if they are wood windows) has dried out and cracked. you can either take out the cracked putty (remove some on either side of the crack, if you can find it, or remove all putty from the corner entirely. wait for the affected area to be dry. Re putty, taking care to push it into all cracks and gaps. Putty finish should be 45 degrees. smooth with palette knife and let dry. then paint.

That's how i would do it anyway.

[ErrolFlynn]

So many preparations don’t like water. Avoiding water at this time of year might be difficult. The previous post with putty sounds good to me.

There are preparations around that ‘harden’ rotten wood. Never used any. I saw a UK video of someone repairing a rotten window frame. Basically, they cut out the rotten bits and shaped new wood to fill the gaps made by removing the rotten wood. The new wood wasn’t a perfect shape and that didn’t worry the guy because he used some kind of epoxy to secure the new pieces and fill the gaps. (I think he first used a heat gun to ensure everything was dry.) Then trowelled it off and sanded it back, and a couple of coats later it looked great. But I fancy you’d need to be careful (skilled) to avoid having a ripply surface.

Never had success with builder’s bog. I think my wood was damp and I possibly didn’t get all the rot out. If the bog doesn’t have anything solid to stick to it’ll fall out. Pretty logical, really. I have actually used the bog that panel beaters use – simply because I had some. It worked well. Maybe it’s the same stuff, or related (base compound that you add hardener to).

[RobertG1]

Thanks both, Good advise. I'm going to give this a go over the next few days / weeks. I think the key is to ensure all old putty and rot is removed and ensure its dry before applying new putty and bog on the outside.

Do you recommend using silicone sealer either on the inside / outside or both?

Cheers

[ErrolFlynn]

No, I'd avoid silicone, only because of the following.

I've painted some windows recently. I had been putting it off because I thought they were rotten. I scraped the paint off then sanded them. I didn't want to use chemicals. Anyway, the timber was quite good, surprisingly. There was silicone on the glass where it had been applied sloppily and it was such a pain to get off the glass with it being rubbery like it is. Haven't people heard of masking tape?

I mentioned the UK video of a guy repairing the window frame. He mentioned something that I found interesting. He said don't trouble yourself to use masking tape when painting the windows. Paint onto the glass. Then, and I guess this is the important bit, when done (and maybe before the paint goes rock solid) run a scraper over the glass to remove the excess paint from the glass to leave a perfect finish. Never tried it. I reckon you'd need an appropriately shaped scraper to avoid scraping the paint off the timber. He got the excess paint off so much quicker than it would take to put masking tape on in the first place. Just an idea.

[ajm]

you won't need silicone if your putty is done right. use linseed oil based putty and a broad pallette knife/spatula.

[Wimmera Jack]

Agree with the putty.
Silicon is dreadful stuff and a lazy way of sealing glass windows.

Hooroo

John

[droog]

Thanks both, Good advise. I'm going to give this a go over the next few days / weeks. I think the key is to ensure all old putty and rot is removed and ensure its dry before applying new putty and bog on the outside.

Do you recommend using silicone sealer either on the inside / outside or both?

Cheers

Do you realise that the windows in the pictures you attached were not glazed with putty but rather with glazing beads.
Any putty has been added later probably after rot set in. If you are going to install the glazing with putty remove the old glazing beads as well.
Best option is to remove all glass then prime and paint the frames, install glazing after the frame is painted and dry.