Old 4 x 3 hardwood bearers

[Strungout]

Hi all
Back on the good old days - most bearers looked to be 4 x 3 hardwood with a f17 Rating (I think) and - if I am correct ?

I have a 120 year old home and I need to replace a rotted bearer on the veranda - but finding the right timber or material is like winning the lottery
Ask for 90 x 70 f17 hardwood and I feel that they think I am nuts or something

What is used these days that is the equivalent size and strength

I know I can go treated pine and all that stuff - but the sizing doesn’t work for what I need to do
TIA


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[Nutz]

You should be able to find it at a demolition/salvage yard, it was a common size back in the day.

[Beardy]

You should find an LVL equivalent, that us the common way now. The old hardwood one you are replacing would of been wetsawn. You could still order one from a mill but you will have shrinkage to deal with over time

[Strungout]

You should find an LVL equivalent, that us the common way now. The old hardwood one you are replacing would of been wetsawn. You could still order one from a mill but you will have shrinkage to deal with over time

Can these LVL beams be exposed to the weather ?


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[rwbuild]

The top edge MUST be mechanically protected ie: a flashing of some kind (alcor, Protectadeck for bearers and faces and bottom sealed) and treated for termites.
Simplest and cost effective is 100 x 100 x 2mm SHS duragal and use framing brackets to connect the joists to the steel with 30mm type17 teks for the joist and 25mm metal teks for the steel.
I have done a lot of bearer replacements this way under houses and verandahs, basically foolproof and very cost effective as you can get any length up to 8.0m

[Strungout]

Thank you
The bearer is on the outside of a top floor veranda and is visible from underneath and outside
No probs with termites as it’s fully exposed - but more concerned about rain water and the weather
You can see the 4 x 3 in the pic running along the length of the Verandah
It’s the end -200 mm that has rot in it


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[aldav]

Hmm! That beam doesn't look like it's 4" x 3" to me. The whole lot, beam, joists and posts, looks like it's oregon. It used to be done back in the day before decks started collapsing, and will all fail eventually if it gets any amount of water on it regularly.

[Strungout]

Hmm! That beam doesn't look like it's 4" x 3" to me. The whole lot, beam, joists and posts, looks like it's oregon. It used to be done back in the day before decks started collapsing, and will all fail eventually if it gets any amount of water on it regularly.

It’s a 4x3 (90 x 70) hardwood (painted ) with the orogen joists which have capping on the tops to stop moisture
The 4x3 hardwood that has started to rot on the end grain area
All the rest is fine and had been there for 30 years


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[jack620]

At the risk of being pedantic, I don't think the 4x3 is the bearer. The bearer is the wider board sitting on top of the 4x3. The 4x3 looks like a ledger that the joists sit on. Assuming I'm right, the replacement piece isn't critical. Why not use 90x90 cyprus posts? Rip them down to 90x70 if necessary.

[Strungout]

It looks like that because the ends a “infilled” between the joists
The 4x3 has the weight of the joists on it and supports the veranda


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[jack620]

It looks like that because the ends a “infilled” between the joists

Ok, got it.

[rwbuild]

You can get 100 x 75 SHS, just paint to match colour there and who will know the difference

[Bushmiller]

Strungout

I agree with Ray about the use of RHS or SHS steel as the replacement and as a bonus it will be stronger as well as more durable. Just be aware that the 100 x 75 dimension may not be exactly the same as your timber, because of shrinkage or if it is a dressed size (90x70). What started off as 100x75 sawn will be smaller now. If it was dressed (so also by default dried too) it will just be smaller than the steel.

The other issue will be supporting your deck while you remove the old timber and insert a replacement. You will need either acro props or scaffolding screw jacks and suitable pipe in conjunction with another beam to support your deck. You may be able to hire the acro props. Of course you may be engaging a builder to do this for you and they will have the gear.

Regards
Paul

[Beardy]

Can these LVL beams be exposed to the weather ?


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Sorry didn’t read your original post properly and just realised you were referring to a beam exposed to weather Ignore my advice. I have done all my verandas at home out of steel like Ray suggested