Making your own wax polishes

[ubeaut]

Buff with fine steel wool.

Buffing with steel wool is good for wax over a surface coatings like shellac, lacquer, poly, etc.

However buffing wax with steel wool on raw waxed wood to get rid of shine, will mostly make it easier to damage wax that's left behind (if any at all).

I have applied the wax with 0000 wire wool but I haven't buffed with it, I used a cloth.....I will try that and see

Applying wax with steel wool is best done over a surface coating. Not on raw wood. Doing this on raw wood has it's own inherent problem. Main one being that super fine bits of the steel wool break off and will be impregnated into the wood with the wax and down the track you will get small black dots showing in the finish as the steel wool begins to deteriorate.

Even worse on a tannin rich timber as the tannin will react with the steel wool and cause all sorts of not nice looking marks in the wood.

STEEL WOOL is for use over surface coatings and on metal and other non porous surfaces. In woodwork it can be used in the stripping process of restoration work but needs to be washed out of the wood before applying a finish or the same problems may ruin the finished item, down the track.

Cheers - Neil

[Anotherplane]

The mineral turps and white spirits will do exactly the same as the same job as the pure stuff

Cheers - Neil

Would this apply to Polish Reviver also, I use pure turpentine in my polish reviver mix probably a 3rd is turpentine. Would white spirits do the job in a reviver ?

I have to say I have used a commercial Briwax Beeswax and on the label it states it contains pure turpentine and not mineral spirits.

[yvan]

I make my own waxes. Its just a Beeswax Carnauba wax and Pure turpentine mix . Mixed hot in a pot and adjusted no make the normal furniture wax consistency.

In what proportion do you use the Carnauba wax to the beeswax?

[Anotherplane]

Warning.



Also bear in mind that waxes are easy to mark up with ware, water, alcohol and heat, etc. a satin or mat wax will mark quicker and easier than a gloss and most homemade waxes will also require constant reapplication to keep them in top condition... unless you have carnauba wax in the mix, but then you've got a shiny wax and it will still need constant maintenance just not a much.

Cheers - Neil

Hi Neil and thanks for your kind tips..

For antique furniture I thought a wax and preferably not too high a shine is the way to go in most cases, I haven't had any problems with marking etc so far. I do have an antique drop leaf table I use in anger sometimes for mealtimes but I always put a heatproof placemat down....

What else could I use on antiques other than wax polishes ?

[ED65]

What else could I use on antiques other than wax polishes ?

I presume you're asking in relation to upkeep (for use on top of the original finish)?

Assuming so this is precisely what wax polishes are for, and they're far far better than any modern 'furniture polish' that has an oil component, especially anything with any silicone in it of course.

[Anotherplane]

I presume you're asking in relation to upkeep (for use on top of the original finish)?

Yes indeed, and usually over a shellac polished surface.

[q9]

Seeing as you're in Europe, find some Pate Dugay wax, and see if you like it. Blanc Neutre works for most things, but there are coloured ones as well. We let it sit for at least a few hours prior to buffing, sometimes overnight.

[Anotherplane]

Thank you for the recommendation, I had heard good things about this wax. But I still have over 2kg of nice beeswax to find a use for

[q9]

I have a cunning plan.

A very large candle.

[Anotherplane]

I have a cunning plan.

A very large candle.

Considering the size of my last electricity bill, I might leave the the lights off take your advice !