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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    0

    Question Steel Casement Window Repairs (Rust Removal)

    Hi All,

    I have a couple of questions about repairing some rusty steel-frame casement windows.

    There are three windows that need attention, one in a bathroom that has fairly bad rust, and another two in a bedroom and kitchen.

    The rust has been an ongoing problem for several years, particularly in the bathroom as the window is next to a shower and gets wet regularly.

    A few years back I tried fixing the problem by stripping the bathroom window frame back to bare metal and then painting it with Wattyl Killrust Heavy Duty Primer and then Wattyl Killrust Epoxy Enamel. Unfortunately this didn't work very well as the rust started to return within a few months. I suspect that it was because I didn't remove the glass from the window and so I didn't remove the rust that was hiding behind the glass. Lesson learned!

    So now the time has come to tackle the problem (again!) and I have a couple of questions:

    Is there something that people would recommend that would be better than the Wattyl stuff? I've been doing some online research and come across some other things like Dulux Metalshield - would that be better? Or is there something better still?

    Also, this time I'm going to remove the glass so I can get rid of the rust behind the glass. What I'm not sure about is when the glass goes back in. The Metalshield info suggests using three layers - Brush Thinner, Surface Primer and then an Enamel top coat. So does the glass go back in after the primer or the top coat?

    If anyone has tackled a job like this I'd be interested to hear any tips.

    Cheers,

    Chris

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    moonbi nsw Aus
    Age
    70
    Posts
    228

    Default

    When you took the frame "back to bare metal" did you use a rust converter before the undercoat? There are a few products around that are a Rust Converter simply brush on then go ahead with the priming and painting. As far as "when to put the glass back", I would wait until the whole window has had at least one coat of top coat. That way you know that you have done your best to get rid of the problem. When the glass is back in just run around it with a top coat on the glass' putty
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Nsw
    Age
    64
    Posts
    558

    Default

    It would be worth looking at Penetrol to see if that would suit your application

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Yes, I used a rust converter on the bare metal. As I mentioned, I think the problem was that I couldn't remove all the rust, particularly the rust that was behind the glass, and that's where it took off again.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    140

    Default

    Use one of the Marine bottom paint systems, i.e. pretreat-primer-top coat, these systems are designed to last years under water, my previous home had the same problem, I used the aforementioned type paint and it lasted 10 years, then I sold the house so can't comment after that.
    Yes I did remove the glass and striped back to bare metal,

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by China View Post
    Use one of the Marine bottom paint systems, i.e. pretreat-primer-top coat, these systems are designed to last years under water, my previous home had the same problem, I used the aforementioned type paint and it lasted 10 years, then I sold the house so can't comment after that.
    Any suggestions as to a brand?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    South Australia
    Posts
    140

    Default

    I used a local manufactured product (SA) Shipway Spescoat, I am not aware if they sell Australia wide.

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