Making a kitchen cabinet door

[Arron]

In the attached image, you can see that I have several stacks of drawers, and one cupboard door that has been made to look like the drawers. This is just for aesthetics - I didn’t want to spoil the line of the drawers.

I have done this by getting a bunch of extra drawer fronts cut, and then fixing them together using an internal panel of melamine/mdf. The internal panel is nearly as large as the door itself, so although it is unseen when the door is closed it nearly doubles the weight and bulk of the door. It’s an inelegant solution.

Is there any other way to do this ? Any off the shelf solution that kitchen makers use perhaps?

Cheers

6C38D8D3-038B-4D02-8410-F030939FB365.jpeg

[Cal]

I wonder if you may be better to have a solid panel of the draw material and just cut shallow rebates in it to match the draw gaps. Then you avoid having a panel behind the door.

[Arron]

I wonder if you may be better to have a solid panel of the draw material and just cut shallow rebates in it to match the draw gaps. Then you avoid having a panel behind the door.

No, tried that. Lots of reasons why i did t like it. The door is weakened because you’ve put cuts in it and it’s only mdf so doesn’t need much. Then they don’t look like the real thing because the play of light and shadow is different between stopped and through cut. Plus the 2pak spray paint doesn’t like going into a 2 mm groove. Plus I have no way of consistently matching the routered pencil round edge because I can’t get a roundover bit into the thin groove.

[derekcohen]

Use lighter material.

For example, the door panel is 12-18mm marine ply. And the paste-on drawer sections can be made of 6mm MDF. You may get away with 3mm MDF. Once the edges are rounded, the thickness will not be apparent.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[havabeer69]

probably Alot more expensive, but could you replace your MDF backing board with something like aluminium plate or Perspex to save on the weight/thickness

[pippin88]

Hollow out the back of the fake drawer fronts?

Then glue to your backing panel.

[Arron]

probably Alot more expensive, but could you replace your MDF backing board with something like aluminium plate or Perspex to save on the weight/thickness

I should have mentioned that first preference is that if there must be a backing board it be made out of the same material as the drawer fronts (white 16mm satin mdf). Less surface material changes equates to a neater, more professional look.

However, I was really wondering if there is a commercial solution for this. I have found that making melamine cabinetry has been going on for so long in Europe that there aren’t many needs that haven’t already been met. I was hoping some experienced cabinetmaker like Elan would jump in and say ‘you need product xyz from Hafele’. Then all done.

I have 4 of these doors to do so I don’t mind doing a bit of legwork, and 2 already done which I will retrofit if the solution is right.

Also, as our approaches to kitchen building in Australia slowly gets more sophisticated doors don’t so often just open any more. More often they pull out some hideously overpriced piece of kitchen gadgetry. Two of these doors pull out multiple rubbish bins as you open them, one slides out a rack of cleaning products, and one of cooking basics. And of course there are no door handles as a way to guide the user to apply pressure where you want it. Thus the doors need to be strong to prevent bending in use.

[jdgreen75]

IKEA sell these to connect their drawer fronts together..

UTRUSTA Connecting rail for fronts - IKEA

[Arron]

IKEA sell these to connect their drawer fronts together..

UTRUSTA Connecting rail for fronts - IKEA

That’s a pretty impressive first post. Welcome to the forum.

[Cal]

I know that what I am showing you in a photo of my kitchen is different from what you are trying to achieve but I made all the doors and draw fronts from 12mm MDF with 6mm thick MDF strips glued on the front. They are doors and don’t have to be thick or heavy to be strong. The 12mm MDF have V groves cut into them.
If you go too thick you will need custom threads for your door hardware as they are generally supplied to fit up to 18mm thick material.

[Greg Q]

I know that what I am showing you in a photo of my kitchen is different from what you are trying to achieve but I made all the doors and draw fronts from 12mm MDF with 6mm thick MDF strips glued on the front. They are doors and don’t have to be thick or heavy to be strong. The 12mm MDF have V groves cut into them.
If you go too thick you will need custom threads for your door hardware as they are generally supplied to fit up to 18mm thick material.

Cal what paint did you use? Nice work btw.

[Cal]

Thanks Greg. 2pac automotive satin finish. I sprayed it with a budget gun, happy with how it all come together.