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Thread: clean/rough cut
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17th July 2021, 04:50 PM #1Senior Member
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clean/rough cut
I've recently bought a Sherwood 14" standard Bandsaw
I replaced the supplied blade with a Starrett 6tpi 16mm
I've been experimenting with some resawing, bevel cuts and general trimming to size stuff
I'm finding that the saw is quite accurate, in particular with resawing, there a some things I can improve as I learn what it can do
One thing tho is while it cuts nice and straight it leaves a rather rough cut that requires a bit of sanding to get smooth
it also leaves a bit of splintering on the bottom edge of a cross cut
Is this the norm Or could I improve my technique and/or the type of blade etc to achieve a cleaner cut?
cheers
Hodgo
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17th July 2021, 06:37 PM #2.
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I don't usually expect too much from a bandsaw in terms of finish but a picture of the finish you are getting could be useful to help diagnose potential problems.
RE: it also leaves a bit of splintering on the bottom edge of a cross cut
You could try using a zero clearance throat plate or cutting on top of a thin piece of something sacrificial like 3mm MDF to see if they help.
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18th July 2021, 12:53 PM #3
Hi
The bandsaw from a joiners perspective is a used to cut shapes, profiles and to 'break down' timber. Regardless of the type of blade used, you should not expect the finish cut to be so good that it does not require some sanding.
It is a saw like all saws the quality of cut is dependant on two main factors, quality of teeth and set as well as feed speed (how quickly you feed the timber through the saw).
Your question is very common, especially with the apprentices I teach (I am a TAFE teacher), however there are no short cuts unfortunately.
From what you have said I think you technique is ok, but you will have to sand to some degree to get the final finish you require.
Hope this helps
Kevin
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19th July 2021, 02:23 AM #4Senior Member
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Could be a number of things, have you tried different blades?
Often a tooth or two can be overset which causes this.
Have you tried seeing if it was a build up of resin on the tires which need scraping off... if so,
Take note of the patterns before removal.
I suppose you could have a look at your belt also.
It could be an alignment problem either, do you have a long straight edge handy?
Check for parallel with your frame/aligned with motor pulley, top and bottom wheel.
Yo might need to get a plumb bob line if there is adjustment in the top wheel, possibly for wheel alignment
i.e to the column or guidepost, or wheel protrusion from the cabinet.
SAM_4630.jpgSAM_4633.jpg
After that, go back and measure each side from the top wheel, you might need a narrowish blade if it tracks too far forward,
This test is supposedly best done with the widest suitable blade for the machine though, take blade gauge into account if you have a light machine sub 200kg
This measurement is tricky to take from both sides of the wheel, if you had some rare earth magnets, it would make the job a lot easier, I reckon.
SAM_4595.jpgSAM_4572.jpg
Clamping the beam like below is no good, if you intend to do any adjustment whatsoever, note block under wheel, any adjustment will track the machine differently, so you won't get consistent results without going over all the tests again
SAM_4600.jpgSAM_4592.jpg
BEWARE of having you're belt too tight as any misalignment can toast your bearings fairly lively!!!!
If you plan on changing belts, even the same sized and branded one can have a massive difference in tension,
look what happened below.
I'd do all these tests with an old strechie first, and take notes if needing to replace after.
I learned this the hard way, that the wheel and motor alignment takes preference, rather than the guidepost.
Even if something is not adjustable, that's not to say you can't make it!
SAM_4615.jpg
Hope this helps
Tom
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19th July 2021, 12:51 PM #5Senior Member
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thanks a lot you guys
I've learnt a bit more
after a bit more playing around I'm finding a lot of the cut quality is down to technique ie a controlled consistent motion seems to help plus zero lateral movement, I tried using a featherboard with good results, everything still needed a good sand but thats ok
as I've said I have fitted this blade rather than the one supplied and have got fairly good results
I may experiment with other blades of varying tpi's and composition in the near future
Given that the saw is only 2 weeks old, I don't think I'll be looking for faults such as resin on the wheels or misalignment (maybe in years to come)
I was just wondering about the quality of cut compared to a well aligned table saw for example
I think Bobl and kph have answered that question and put my mind at rest
Cheers
Hodgo
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5th December 2021, 12:45 PM #6Senior Member
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update - interesting
well after resigning myself to the fact this bandsaw leaves grooves in the cut however straight
today I made a discovery while using it
it started to make a louder clunking noise than usual as I was cutting,
just as I was thinking the blade was self destructing
this very small fragment came off the blade and landed on the table
its about 2mm long and looks like a scrap of steel from around the teeth
this hasn't affected anything,in fact the cut is cleaner than ever, no more heavy sanding to get those grooves out
IMG_2189.jpg
so far so good
cheers
Hodgo
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5th December 2021, 02:15 PM #7
Well thats better out than in.
As to blades 6 tpi is a bit too fine for resawing. 3 tpi is more the go for that. These days I mostly have a 10mm 3 tpi blade in the saw as a multi purpose blade. Does most of the day to day tasks both shapes and some resawing. A 16mm 3 tpi for more serious resawing. I have also found that a 16mm blade is about as big as the saw (14'') will tension so I dont go bigger than that.
Regards
John
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5th December 2021, 03:12 PM #8Senior Member
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5th December 2021, 05:01 PM #9
It couldn't be a little part of a brad that was embedded in the wood could it?
Dallas
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5th December 2021, 05:15 PM #10Senior Member
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