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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    9

    Default OLD JARRAH WINDOW - Restore, strip, oil or rejuvenate wood, paint, varnish.

    Got an old Jarrah kitchen window i need to restore, I have removed glass, heat gun stripped, so far but keep looking at wood state, and think it needs some love, or lots.
    I will need to cut them down, by one pane in height, to fit back in over sink, but before I do that, I would like to rejuvenate the wood some how.?
    I will then cut down, re glue, paint white outside, and varnish inside.
    Also any idea how to remove those stupid locks.?
    Being novice any help appreciated.

    Also I live near Fremantle, Western Australia, so anyone local, would love to hear from you, as may need some work done.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    In between houses
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Use a screw extractor for the lock. Drill a hole in the head of the screws thats smaller than the shank of the screw, then insert the screw extractor and wind it out. You’ll find green scotch brite pads really useful for cleaning up the timber.
    Frost 5 Piece Extractor Screw Set | Bunnings Warehouse

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Jarrahdale WA
    Posts
    79

    Default

    I'm in Jarrahdale and have some background in refurbishing/repurposing old timber windows. Reach out if you'd like, happy to assist if I can

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Window stripped, next step.?
    I would like to rejuvenate the wood some how. Any advice.?

    IMG_3721 - Window stripped.JPG

    IMG_3719 - Rejuvenate wood.JPG

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Rockhampton
    Posts
    28

    Default

    I have cut down some casement windows before. It is quite abit of effort, I’m no window expert but I will give you some advice base on my experience.

    You have to disassemble the entire window. The mortise and tenon joints look like they are pinned. You will have to remove the pins and try not to do too much damage to the surrounding wood.

    Once apart position the top rail so the rebate for the glass is in the same position as on the top glazing bar. Now enlarge the glazing bar mortises to suit the top rail tenons and cut down the stile to suit.

    You will likely have done some damage removing the pins so repair with epoxy before reassembly.

    Reassemble and replace the pins. I replaced with dowel rather than the original aluminium drive in pins.

    I found a uni pro scraper is good for removing the old paint as it leaves the timber smooth so no sanding required afterwards. Also good to get the old hard backing putty off the rebates where the glass sits.


    I cut some down to one pane high.





  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Someone has just tried to send you me a private message, and I got this email message instead.
    "your private messages box on Woodwork Forums has reached the specified quota. In order to receive further private messages, you must delete some messages."
    Strange only had 3 messages, and 2 sent. I guess must be specified quota limit must be 5.
    Please send again your private message

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    9

    Default

    OK, so white paint stripped, and begin to strip other side wood finish, discover not varnish, but Shellac, or could be combo. (see pictures)
    Picture 1 before, picture 2 with heat gun, picture 3 cleaned with metho.
    I removed most with heat gun, and gave quick all over clean up with methylated spirits.

    My question is do I need to do a real thorough clean, or re do with heat gun, or sand off everything.?
    Will this be a problem when it comes to doing repaint, in spar marine varnish.?

    IMG_3727 - Window Shellac stripped.JPGIMG_3725 - Window Shellac stripped.JPGIMG_3732 - Window Shellac stripped.JPG

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Hobart
    Age
    78
    Posts
    190

    Default

    Sikkens has very good products for this type of project.

    I have used them with great success on an exterior door and window frames, all exposed to the harsh UV Tasmanian sun over long periods.

    NB I have NO connection with Sikkens, just a happy user!

    Cheers
    Yvan

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Being novice any help appreciated to the above last post please.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    Hobart
    Age
    78
    Posts
    190

    Default

    franc,

    Go to www.sikkens.com.au
    Select Decorative Wood Finishes, then Consumers then What's your Project
    Select Exterior Timber Joinery

    Have a read of the options and the characteristics of the products recommended for this type of woodwork.

    I suggest you contact Sikkens for them to confirm your choice or advise you further on the basis of what you want to do and achieve.

    Cheers
    Yvan

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Resized, cut down by one pane in height, thanks to much for the help from David Elliott.
    Now after many, many hours of filling, sanding ... Stripped ready to paint white outside, and Feast Watsons Spar Marine Varnish (sorry couldn't get Sikkens) inside.
    Told a good idea before paint is to mix varnish 50 - 50 with turps and rag on.
    Idea is to get idea of finish, if missed bits (as removed shellac with colour in)
    and to rejuvenate the dry wood.
    Is this a good idea.?

    Stripped ready to paint 2.JPG

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Busselton, WA
    Posts
    3

    Default Jarrah window restore in Busso

    Sorry if I am a bit late this Franc
    Just finished doing the exact same project and installed them. I am in Busselton so I get your project.
    I sanded everything back with 40 grit and then worked my way to 120 grit before applying OSMO oil.
    It is expensive stuff but lasts - recommended to me by a wood working friend of mine at 'Timber Grooves' (shameless plug.
    Anyway, they came up well and this is the jarrah window and door frame installed at last
    The white lines behind the panes is putty between the glass and inside frame and then I reattached the beads at the exterior without putty. it worked out OK, I like it. Jarrah windows.jpgJarrah window and door.jpg

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Cheers for that Nicked74, Yeah looks good.
    I think all WWF have lost interest in this post
    I have given up posting progress, and asking for advice, as no response to my last post a month ago.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    710

    Default

    All your requests up to asking about a 50/50mix of varnish and turps were answered, including links. Maybe no one had thoughts on the 50/50 mix which is why you didn’t get an answer.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Western Australia
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Lappa, PLEASE don't get me wrong, I really appreciated all post replies, and also the great help I got from David Elliott helping me cut down.
    All done know, final coat of exterior oil based gloss white to go on. Then will get chippy to help install.
    Thanks again all.

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