Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    102

    Default Oil finishing over stain

    Hello, can anyone please suggest a good process for getting a nice smooth oil finish on timber that needs to be stained? I often wet sand Cabots Danish Oil or use Kunos #244 oil, but that is only on raw timber. Lately I have been trying shellac as a finish.

    I need to make the timber very smooth first, then stain it uniformly black with a spirit based stain, then do an oil finish. Unfortunately I don’t have any water based black stain.

    The problem seems to be conflicts between the spirit based stain and any grain filler, so I am open to any ideas and suggestions
    regards,

    Dengy

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    102

    Default A suggested finish

    Without any response so far to my question above, I have a suggestion and a question:

    I have some dark brown timber with quite open grain. I want to make it black with a nice smooth satin finish so you cannot feel the grain with your nails, but still be able to see the grain.

    I propose to fill the grain with an ebony Timbermate slurry, and then sand it back and apply 2 coats of Prooftint spirit based black stain.

    Can anyone please recommend a finish that can go over this to give a nice smooth satin finish? I read one of Neil’s 2006 posts which says oils need to be able to interact with the timber for full effect, so it is useless putting anything under them.

    I am thinking of using Cabots Danish Oil which is a weak polyurethane mix. I am wondering if that will take.
    regards,

    Dengy

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Ringwood, VIC
    Posts
    133

    Default

    Must admit I'm having trouble visualising this.if it is really black, and smooth, how would you see the grain? I guess maybe very subtle shadings of black? Sorry can't help with a finish to go over spirit stain, but I understand it needs to be oil based not water or it could wash the stain out. Or is that for water stain. Unless that is the same thing...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    49

    Default

    Constantia Organic Finishes has a dry filler made from pure pumice that when mixed with their wood oil does a good job.
    There is also a Seedlac which is a shellac based product that i have used over Wattyl stains then followed by the wood oil.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    102

    Default Not black enough

    As part of a test, I have applied two coats of ebony Timbermate as filler. The 1st coat left the grain feeling obvious to the finger nail brushed across the board. After the 2nd layer , the board was then quite smooth, but at a pinch you could still feel the minute grain. Either due for another coat or the 240 /400 grit paper was pulling the Timbermate out of the grain pores.

    I then applied three (3) coats of Feast Watson black Proof tint, but still cannot get the timber true black, as seen in the pics. Any suggestions here please? The white rag shows the excess wiped off after 5 minutes, showing most of it has sunk into the timber.

    russ57 the pics quite clearly show the grain

    I am thinking I might have to use a darker timber and then stain that to get true black finish

    Any suggestions on getting a true deep black finish please?


    P1360537 Large.jpg P1360538 Large.jpg
    regards,

    Dengy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Hi Joe,

    Just spotted this. What I do is mix a little Indian Ink (shellac-based from the local art supplies shop) into my shellac. Makes a lovely black shellac. You can buy “black shellac”, of course - Liberon makes one:
    Black Polish: Furniture and Interior Woodwork French Polishes | Liberon wood cares which can be bought from Graeme Brown Antique Supplies in Melbourne. I just use Neil’s Hard Shellac with Indian Ink. This is the one I use: Winsor & Newton Drawing Inks | Eckersley's Art & Craft

    Brian

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Sounds the way to go, thanks Brian, really appreciate it. I have just applied my 4th coat of Prooftint. Definition of madness? Feast Watson tech guy says should only need one flooding coat applied with lambswool applicator, lots of Prooftint, and don't wipe off.

    What ratio of shellac / ink mix do you do?
    regards,

    Dengy

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Kew, Vic
    Posts
    123

    Default

    Hi Joe,

    I think it depends on the strength of your shellac. I just wing it. I take a small amount of shellac in a container and add Indian ink drop by drop, testing as I go. It doesn't seem to need much.

    Brian

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Thanks Brian, I was concerned it might be a 25-75 mix or something like that, as this shellac based Indian Ink is not cheap. Last bottle in Townsville sold last week, will have to go online to order it.
    regards,

    Dengy

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 6th November 2019, 10:22 AM
  2. Stain/finishing cypress bed frame
    By Alex_Campili in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 10th August 2016, 10:25 AM
  3. Finishing radiata with varnish stain
    By Dengue in forum FINISHING
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 28th May 2008, 01:54 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •