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Thread: Bathroom reno - toilet question
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1st November 2005, 08:04 AM #1New Member
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Bathroom reno - toilet question
Hi all,
After much stripping backing and relining of our 2 upstairs bathrooms, they are ready to go for tiling. Both bathrooms are being fitted with hobless showers which means raising the floor level by about 40mm on a mortar bed. Once the floor is installed the toilet will sit above the p-trap soil outlet going out the wall.
My question was whether I have to get the plumber to move the p-trap waste pipe up to align with the new toilet, or is there a connection used to adjust the misalignment?
Any help will be greatly appreciated and thanks for a great site.
Chris
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1st November 2005, 08:47 AM #2
You would be best to talk to a plumber - I don't think thay would like too much of a kink just there, but there may be a flexible sleeve that would do this.
The main focus of your attention is waterproofing, especially around the penetrations in the floor. Wet areas, esp. upstairs need a belts and braces approach, as a leak is a real downer. Make sure that you keep full access to the area under the shower to satisfy yourself that you have no leaks.
DThe only way to get rid of a [Domino] temptation is to yield to it. Oscar Wilde
.....so go4it people!
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1st November 2005, 08:56 AM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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There is a beast called an offset pan collar,and you can turn it around to get the offset you need.I don't know how much offset they have...40mm might be a stretch.
Tools
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1st November 2005, 10:13 AM #4
good advice here from everyone, though I think a plumber might advise against the offest idea..... I tried this in a home years ago (the offest, not the advice) and it was too far out from the wall, so eneded up cutting away all the tiles and re-setting the pan - it was a big hassle, but worked out in the end. I guess if you dont have the issue that I did, the the offset idea might be fine....... how's THAT for vague????? oh well it is Melbourne Cup day and I am very much in holiday mode
Perhaps a plumber shifting the outlet higher would be the go - have you checked that you can't do that yourself?
have fun!Steve
Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
Australia
....catchy phrase here
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1st November 2005, 10:48 AM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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An offset collar replaces the collar already on the end of the pipe.If the plumbing is relatively modern,there will be a fitting with a flexible rubber ring in to which the outlet of the pan sits.Replace this with an offset and the distance off the wall will be exactly the same.
Tools
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1st November 2005, 01:04 PM #6
AHAH! Makes perfect sense to me now why our pan sat out from the wall - ours was added to the original by the plumber ...... go figure - I must see if I can dig up the pics of it ....
Steve
Kilmore (Melbourne-ish)
Australia
....catchy phrase here
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2nd November 2005, 08:26 PM #7Senior Member
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If its a P trap as mentioned, DEFINATELY get a plumber in to quote, (BTW sometimes the act of quoting gets you all the info you need). The P trap designs leak easily, as compared to the S traps that you can use the simple 30mm offset collar, which works well because gravity is your friend, unfortunately with P's, gravity is not your friend.
IMO only of course.
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2nd November 2005, 09:57 PM #8Senior Member
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The offset collar mentioned is for "S" traps. These are usually employed with close-coupled suites but do not work with all of them. Adjustability of a "P" trap is dependent upon the height of the outlet. Get a plumber in!
Cheers!silkwood
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3rd November 2005, 04:48 PM #9SENIOR MEMBER
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Originally Posted by pharmaboy2
Pharmaboy...why do you say gravity is not your friend?The pan is being raised so it will be marginally higher than the waste,and the offset is turned to accomodate this,and the waste has fall on it......how is this a problem?
Tools
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3rd November 2005, 07:24 PM #10
Why would an offset collar leak and a normal pan collar not leak???????They are exactly the same thing except that the offset collar is offset to the pipe,and the normal collar is centred on the pipe.The connection to the pan is exactly the same.
Its the rubber that leaks as it looses its elasticity. When I replace pans I also replace this rubber.
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4th November 2005, 08:28 AM #11
hobless shower
Hi Chris, not related to the toilet, but with the hobless shower, get a waterproofer in and make sure an isolation barrier is placed under where the shower screen is to go. It's usually a 40mm alum or plastic angle waterproofed in.
Cheers
Michael
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