What type of ceiling should I use

[Arron]

Hi. As I mentioned in my last post we are building a house (partially) as owner builders. I’m busy doing research and planning.

Now I have a question about what type of ceiling to put up in the carport.

The house will have a large carport at the rear which is actually under the second floor of the house - under a couple of bedrooms and a hallway. It needs a ceiling and good insulation, and adequate lighting. The problem is that the use of the space is likely to change in the future - perhaps walled up and used as my workshop. Thus the lighting needs will change, so I’m thinking if I put up an ordinary sheet ceiling I’ll probably have to pull it down to reconfigure the room in the future. So is there some other type of ceiling I can use - something like those suspended ceilings used in offices which allow easy access to the space above - but more designed for the residential market in terms of price and relative ugliness.

Has anyone had any experience with this?

Useful facts: the area is about 40 sq mtr, height to joists is about 2550, floor is concrete, protected from weather, not really likely to see much use as a carport as the entry angle is too acute for easy parking.

Photo shows joists - nothing special there I expect.

So any suggestions please???

Cheers
Arron

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[rwbuild]

WR plasterboard or Villaboard unless you are thinking of lining boards

[rrich]

If you are certain that the ceiling will never get wet from rain, looking at the picture again, it will get wet.

I think that your only choice is to wall it off now. I can't see any way to prevent rain water from seeping under and into. The worst of it is that using the engineered beams, here in the US the beams are not impervious to deterioration and failure when the OSB gets wet.

To go further with the wall it off now, I don't see any support for the engineered beams. In the picture, the ends of the beams look to be attached to the facia which is no support. I know that this would never pass inspection here in the US. I am astounded that a framing contractor would do that. You really should have a load bearing wall with double studs at each end and for good measure every fourth stud a double stud. Remember the kids are going to be sleeping above and you don't want the floor falling. Looking at 40 square meters / 430 square feet, (The size of my double car garage.) it is two good sized rooms. The span being supported by the engineered beams is 6 or 7 meters. Each beam being supported by two nails at each end is at best a dubious decision. You really need the ends of those beams supported.

[verawood]

Whatever you decide on check out it's fire rating and weather rating.
Your local council may have the requirements.
Good luck

[Arron]

To go further with the wall it off now, I don't see any support for the engineered beams. In the picture, the ends of the beams look to be attached to the facia which is no support. I know that this would never pass inspection here in the US. I am astounded that a framing contractor would do that. You really should have a load bearing wall with double studs at each end and for good measure every fourth stud a double stud. Remember the kids are going to be sleeping above and you don't want the floor falling. Looking at 40 square meters / 430 square feet, (The size of my double car garage.) it is two good sized rooms. The span being supported by the engineered beams is 6 or 7 meters. Each beam being supported by two nails at each end is at best a dubious decision. You really need the ends of those beams supported.

You needn’t be concerned. The part of the structure you are looking at is supported by massive galvanised steel beams which are supported by 400mm diameter steel reinforced concrete columns. It has been designed by qualified engineers and approved by Council. The thing you are assuming is a ‘fascia’ is just blocking.

The only other builder I have had on site said he thought it was massively overbuilt and hence more expensive then it need be, but I’m not complaining.

[Arron]

WR plasterboard or Villaboard unless you are thinking of lining boards

Thanks Ray. I appreciate that is the traditional method but my question is about whether there is some other, somewhat less traditional method that will give me flexibility to modify the ceiling and the services within it some time in the future?

Or are you saying there isn’t any, and I should just go with villa board and that’s that.


Cheers
Arron

[rwbuild]

Without knowing the overall style/aesthetics of your design the following are some suggestions
Mini orb, select face veneer ply with expressed joints and suitable sealer/stain, architectural cladding sheets either embossed or plainhttps://www.jameshardie.com.au/productrange/categories/cladding/scyon-matrix-cladding , all these can be screw fixed to allow removal for future work/maintenance.

[Arron]

Yep, screw fixing is an option. Thanks for that.

I was also hoping to stir up some discussion about these kinds of ceiling

Aluminium Grid Ceiling System | Rondo

Reading US literature, it seems ‘drop ceilings’ are roughly compatible in price to ‘drywall ceilings’, although if you are reasonably confident you may be remodelling later then they may be a wise choice as they are certainly cheaper then fitting, demolishing then refitting a gyprock ceiling.

This is Bal 19 fire rated, too.

[Fuzzie]

Can't say I've seen suspended ceilings used in residential work, plenty of office spaces use them. As your beams are at 2550 I suspect the depth required for installing the suspension system might be an issue for ceiling height. The brackets are 38 mm deep and you need space above that for the hangers and to manipulate panels into place. I can't imagine the minimum installation requirement being less than 100mm probably more and your ceilings are then below 2400 and you are below habitable height.

[Beardy]

The grid ceiling is not suitable for your application
It needs to sit about 70 mm lower than Your joists
Wont meet your bad rating
Leaks air so wont meet your insulation criteria
Holds dirt and dust
Will be much more expensive than a standard domestic lining
Tikes will blow out in high wind


Maybe just screw fix a lining of your choice if you need to remove later or premier or conduit the area to future proof it as best you can

[Arron]

Ok, so there are many valid reasons not to use a suspended ceiling.

I’m planning now around screw fixed architectural panels.

Thanks all.

Arron

[rrich]

You needn’t be concerned. The part of the structure you are looking at is supported by massive galvanised steel beams which are supported by 400mm diameter steel reinforced concrete columns. It has been designed by qualified engineers and approved by Council. The thing you are assuming is a ‘fascia’ is just blocking.

That is good news. I would not like to hear about the kids falling through into the shop.

[ian]

Hi Arron

IMO your priority should be weatherproofing the engineered beams sooner rather than later.
As Rich advised, the OSB webs will deteriorate when they get exposed to rain, especially at the ends.
The strength of those engineered beams comes from the small section clear pine flanges held a set distance apart by the OSB webs. Once the OSB deteriorates, the kids will be sleeping in the void currently not "covered" by the ceiling you wish to install.