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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Default Steel Inlay clean up in Huon Pine.

    Thinking about doing some simple inlay, into a project using Huon Pine , also using small thin strips of steel .5 mm or less.

    But ,I’m really concerned that if I need to file the inlay flush, how do I stop the Huon Pine being turned Grey, from steel fillings that will possibly be pushed into the pine?

    Will a solvent help lift them back out such as Acerton or Turps.?
    Or should I use a sanding sealer first, be for filling the steel flush?
    Do I sand the pine to the final grade before I inlay?
    Or do I sand once the inlay is in place?



    Cheers Matt.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Albury
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    279

    Default

    Suspect you're on a hiding to nothing on this one Matt. I can't think of any way of stopping the metal filings getting into the wood and once they're in there there'll be no getting them out. Is it possible to inset the steel into the wood a little more deeply and then bring the wood down to the level of the steel?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aldav View Post
    Suspect you're on a hiding to nothing on this one Matt. I can't think of any way of stopping the metal filings getting into the wood and once they're in there there'll be no getting them out. Is it possible to inset the steel into the wood a little more deeply and then bring the wood down to the level of the steel?
    Aldav,
    I was thinking the same, after I posted last night,
    That if I push the metal in a little negative, then bring the timber down flush (careful)too the metal.
    That may work.

    Immmmmm thinking.

    Cheers Matt.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
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    64
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    23

    Default

    Just thinking out loud, would setting your inlay a little deeper and filling with a thin clear epoxy layer then finishing solve your problem.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
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    332

    Default

    I'd go the epoxy route as well. You really need to seal the steel as it will oxidise and possibly stain the huon down the track. Or use high quality stainless. Also just thinking out loud.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    bilpin
    Posts
    510

    Default

    Fit the wood to the steel not the steel to the wood. Like fitting a rifle stock to the action.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Melbourne
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    Default

    Interesting point from above,
    Will the tannins in the timber react with the steel over time,
    The pine is well seasoned, it’s been with me for a three four years, an is only 25 mm thickish.

    But them once the timber is sealed with either a clear or oil will that be a problem?

    Cheers Matt.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
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    Default

    I really don't know if they will react but it would be a shame to find out 6 months after you complete it. Just something to consider
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    1,184

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NCArcher View Post
    I really don't know if they will react but it would be a shame to find out 6 months after you complete it. Just something to consider
    Ye that’s what concerns me,but then I guess no blood no glory, or something like that.

    I just watched a YouTube clip on inlaying, were the guy used Timbermate wood filler, followed by an application of CA glue(Superglue) over the Timbermade filler, to harden it up.

    That got me thinking maybe I should push the steel in a little then use CA over the top before sanding,
    That may make a film over the steel,
    Before finishing it??.

    Cheers Matt

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Little River
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    78
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    225

    Default

    If you switch to stainless the steel problems will be gone.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney
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    99

    Default


    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    western australia South West
    Posts
    9

    Default

    Aluminium might be an option , but be careful if you sand it as it heats up very quickly so a slow hand is the way to go.

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