heres a challenge

[Tonyz]

Dont say this section is ever boring...
scenario... large camp building over 45 years old, on coast, suffering from severe case of salt damp.

Professionals from Adelaide wont come, but a local 'old time builder' ie jack of all trades, not a specialist in one area...his words, had a look today and suggested he could do the job but going to be very expensive, but he would spent half a day, show me what to do and not do.. WIN.

But drilling into besser blocks every 100mm and walls are 28 x 35 metres, so theres a few holes to be done.

Now I dont relish the part of being on my knees all day with a masonry drill and thought you bright intelligent guys could come up with a jig where the electric drill was mounted in place at an angle, with a foot switch for on/off and a lever for forcing it forward into the wall.

sound feasible or far out fantasy.

[AlexS]

You realise that's almost 100,000 holes. At 1 minute per hole, that's 40 weeks for someone working a 40 hour week.
Is the idea to pump concrete in? If so, can you do it from the top?

[Tonyz]

When this building was erected building codes were either non existent or bypassed. Whatever there was NO damp course put down and after 45-50 years the building is showing the effects, so we drill holes then using a special pump like a chalking gun, pump a slurry like liquid in that is absorbed by the brick/concrete and over a few weeks/months depending on season forms a solid water membrane.

As this is happening the bricks above a slowly drying out and brushing off escaping salt slowly transforms the building.
Usually after its all dry a serious rendering program is undertaken filling in small and large holes in damaged areas.

So its a water proofing membrane that is pumped in not concrete.

If this sounds like an advert...tough, its not I have done enough research to know this is the only effective long term solution.

[Beardy]

So you have about 1000 to 1200 holes to drill, I assume you have a rotary hammer drill and you will be drilling into the mortar so a fit person would easily do it in two days.
If your back or knees are not up to it how about grabbing a student to do it ?
Are you planning on using the capsules or injection type system?
Another way I have seen it done is cutting the joint out in hit and miss sections of 450 to 600 long and regrouting with mortar with a waterproof admixture

[Tonyz]

Have a 20 year old Makita hammer drill, but as I am doing this instead of paying professionals, I think I hear a new drill calling my name

doing the injection type, the local builder has all the equipment, we buy the material, and he teaches me, perish the thought of a young un doing that , they would be all over the place like bull hair.

[AlexS]

OK, I misunderstood. Are you just drilling the bottom course? I've heard of that - think it's the same stuff. If it is, it's been around for long enough to be proven.

I have a light drill press mount that you put a drill into, and pulling a spring-loaded lever lowers the drill. I wonder if it's possible to mount a pair of wheels to the back of the base so the drill is horizontal, maybe with a spacer to keep it the right distance from the wall, and just roll it along the inside floor, pushing the lever every time you want to drill a hole.

[Tonyz]

dang AlexS I think your onto something...drill press.jpg this is the type of thing you mean?

[AlexS]

dang AlexS I think your onto something...drill press.jpg this is the type of thing you mean?

Yes, mine's a little lighter and more modern than that one, but it's the same sort of thing.

[Bohdan]

The type of drill that you should be using is an SDS rather than a hammer. The SDS will go thru the wall like butter. If it's a modern one you will need to get one of these and adapt it to work horizontally.