Hard Burnishing Oil 13 years on.

[LGS]

Thought you'd like to see a table done with Hard Burnishing Oil. First pic is 2005. second is 2018. No dullness, no water marks or wine or heat stains. Great finish, gives great resolution and marvellous wear.

Regards,

Rob

[tony_A]

Thanks for posting Rob. Most finishes look good straight out of the shop but it is good to get feedback on how they stand the test of time. Have only used HBO a couple of times and can safely say that I haven't mastered it yet. You've inspired me to give it another try.

Tony

[hammerhorror]

Thought you'd like to see a table done with Hard Burnishing Oil. First pic is 2005. second is 2018. No dullness, no water marks or wine or heat stains. Great finish, gives great resolution and marvellous wear.

Regards,

Rob

hi Rob thanks for the update, that gives me confidence. Im about to do my first ever burnishing job on a kitchen timber benchtop made out of a very very hard pinkinsh brown laminated timber

I've sanded it through 40, 80and now 120 grit. Just wondering, do I need to go through 240 and 320 to get to 400? And can I go straight from 400 to 2000 or do I need a 1200 in the middle?

Also, wondering how this will do with a kitchen sink. I plan to put waterproof membrane in the actual sink cutout, and silicone around the sink of course, but am wondering if the organoil HBO will be enough protection? TIA

[LGS]

G'day and welcome HH.
If you have some of the timber left over, (even a small piece, say 200mm long and say 25mm or better wide) then you can play with the oil and sanding regimen to give you the best result. 4000grit is my spin on the system and it does make a difference I believe. However the result you'll get with 1500g or 2000g will definitely give an excellent result. Maybe if you could use 80, 150, 240, 400 first, then add the oil and sand with the 400g pad. From here I think you can reduce the number of grits to use. So for me , it would be 400g on the oiled surface. You should get a slurry or at least some dust which has been left over from the dry 400g. Leave the dust from the 400 dry and add oil to the work piece. Continue sanding using the same 400g disc. My rule of thumb is to sand the wet surface up and back 10 times then change to the next grit. So I think from here you could go to a minimum of 800 and then 1500g. Don't remove the slurry that will form, this is important as it is allowing the warm oil to penetrate the timber. Once you've done it once you can set up what works for you
I hope that helps. Depending on the size of the timber bit, it shouldn't take you too long. on the piece I suggested, maybe 20 minutes or so. Once you are done, wipe the timber piece off with a dry cotton cloth with a bit of elbow grease. Pour some water or other fluid preferably not something really harsh ( e.g. Brake fluid). Once you have finished polishing with the clean rag you can try some other possible spillage felons. Use hot water and anything else you might encounter.
Finally, after a couple of hours (or overnight, try using some other potential villiians. To clean off the dry finish, use Spray and Wipe on a soft cloth and see how it looks after that. oh and remember to post photos. If I can be of any further help, I'm always here.

Regards,

Rob

[hammerhorror]

My rule of thumb is to sand the wet surface up and back 10 times then change to the next grit.
Don't remove the slurry that will form, this is important as it is allowing the warm oil to penetrate the timber. Once you are done, wipe the timber piece off with a dry cotton cloth with a bit of elbow grease. Pour some water or other fluid preferably not something really harsh ( e.g. Brake fluid). Once you have finished polishing with the clean rag you can try some other possible spillage felons. Use hot water and anything else you might encounter.
Finally, after a couple of hours (or overnight, try using some other potential villiians. To clean off the dry finish, use Spray and Wipe on a soft cloth and see how it looks after that. oh and remember to post photos. If I can be of any further help, I'm always here.

Regards,

Rob

hi Rob thanks for the tips. Sounds like a solid method. Can you please clarify a few things?
- what do you mean by 'sand the wet surface up and back 10 times"? from what I've seen of the Organoil video, no further oil is added after the 400grit, and after each sand it's buffed over with a piece of paper towel to remove excess
- isn't it too soon to apply 'dangerous' chemicals to the top to test it within 24 hours? I thought Organoil Hard Burnishing oil needed a 96 hours to properly harden before being exposed to water...?

Oh BTW I've worked out this timber is Jarrah, more than 10 years old so very hard

thanks

[LGS]

Sorry Sand the work piece up and back ten times for each grit you use. When you get to 400, sand as per the other dry grits, then pour oil onto the wood, so that you have a wet surface. Do this slowly when you start using this method and smooth it over the whole area to be done. You'll notice it starts to soak into the piece. Then you can continue sanding the oil into the wood. take the sanding pad up from 400 (wet) to the next grit without adding any more oil. Then to the next grit, for however many grits you are going to use until you get to 1500g You should have a polished looking piece of timber. Rub the whole piece down with a dry cotton cloth. You should have a burnished piece of wood, showing a nice reflection off the surface. You have finished the finish. Oh and don't add any more oil during the burnishing process. Give the timber about half an hour or so not adding any more oil, then try adding some water onto the burnished surface. It should bead and roll off the piece. If you want to, give the finish about an hour or so, then try some beer, wine, sauce or hot water and satisfy yourself that this sanding process has worked. Finally, when you have wiped t clean, spray with a kitchen wiper (Spray and Wipe is a good one, though you can just grab the brand you use)you have just selected the cleaning agent you will use to wipe off food, drink pretty much anything you spill on the wood.

As far as how long to leqve the finish to seal and dry. You've just used heat ( from the pads) enough to seal and set the oil. If you are reluctant to try it too soon, by all means leave it for a day before doing the final testing.

Regards,

Rob

[ChrisOldCodger]

Thanks. I joined up so I could view the pictures on your original post so delighted to see how durable it is.

I am very much the newcomer, learning a lot from the rather intimidating mountain of knowledge out there.

What do you think of this method - see recent video from Timbecon- YouTube

Spoke to friendly lady at Organoil who said they were about to try it themselves.

Just got some samples of Blackwood to test out - will be how SWMBO likes the finish.

Question please - does the OOHBO add any yellowing to the finish in light coloured timbers like Tassie Oak.

Thanks too for all the tips and tricks you give on how to achieve these finishes.