Mackay Cedar dining table

[Ghallahad]

Hello everyone

I have recently purchased an almighty slab of Mackay Cedar (Red Siris) from Boutique Timbers that I am making a dining table out of. I am curious as to what people's thoughts are on the best finish to use. It will be used as a typical dining table, as in it will actually be used quite often and not just a display piece in a room. The mate who the table is for is quite happy to do any upkeep in the future if that matters (re-oil for example).

Cheers

[cava]

Can't help with the finish choices, but Mackay Cedar is one of the nicest timbers around. Good score.

Pictures????

[Lyle]

Danish oil. Easily repaired, etc.
Would be my choice.
Lyle

[Xanthorrhoeas]

Hello everyone

I have recently purchased an almighty slab of Mackay Cedar (Red Siris) from Boutique Timbers that I am making a dining table out of. I am curious as to what people's thoughts are on the best finish to use. It will be used as a typical dining table, as in it will actually be used quite often and not just a display piece in a room. The mate who the table is for is quite happy to do any upkeep in the future if that matters (re-oil for example).

Cheers

I have also purchased some of this beautiful timber, but am yet to make anything or finish it so my experience with the timber itself is zero. However, when you ask what the "best" finish is I'm afraid that you will get opinions rather than a definitive answer (although they may be expressed as definitive!) I have seen superb finishes with lots of different products - it depends on whether your mate wants a satin finish, a gloss or super-high gloss etc.

My opinion, not shared by everyone, is that shellac is the best finish for items like dining tables. I started out restoring antique Australian cedar furniture and it had always originally been finished with shellac - usually French Polished (i.e. shellac applied in very dilute coats with a fabric "rubber") but sometimes with a brushed finish. Shellac has proven to stand the test of time - items finished with shellac from the 1830's still look great. Shellac is much more resistant to heat and spills than it is given credit for. My children tested the surfaces very thoroughly and the shellac survived as long as the clean up was reasonably prompt (even with hot water or boiling water, orange juice etc.). If a spill was overlooked or something too hot was put directly on the table and the shellac went white then a simple reviver would fix it, or in more extreme circumstances another application of shellac. With time a shellac finished table will develop patina, i.e. small blemishes and faults, but they add to the look rather than detract, once again, my opinion.

I also have a set of early cedar chairs that I purchased very cheaply because someone had tried to strip off the shellac. The chairs looked ghastly, whitish and smeary. I wasn't sure how to fix them so I tried applying more shellac with a lacquer brush (very fine natural hair brush). Zap, they looked better immediately so with the brush for the legs and a rubber for the rail-top-backs, I polished them. I have since had comments about what a lovely original finish they have! Shellac is resilient and repairable.

With shellac you can stop at any gloss level that you want, from satin to piano finish. French polishing with a rubber is pretty easy to master, and if you use a good brush you may even get a decent finish without using a rubber. Ubeaut used to publish a book on how to do it - it may still be available.

There are also of course some stunning pour-on super high gloss finishes that look like the timber is coated with glass, and lots of polyurethane finishes from satin to gloss. They are tough but if they do get damaged it is hard work to remove all the finish and start over. There are also some really good oil finishes like Tung oil and HBO (hard burnished oil) that I believe (have no personal experience) can be repaired if damaged by merely applying more oil - others on these forums can advise better than I can.

Good luck.

[Wood Collector]

If you want a more natural finish I have usedneutral shoe polish as a finish. To achieve a super fine finish Isanded my slab to 600 grit with wet and dry. Then I put metho onto theslab and wet sanded up to 1500g. I then buffed any leftover wet dust off with adry cloth. Next comes the wax on wat off stage. I apply some wax to the slaband then rub it into the timber with 1500G sand paper then buff any of theremaining wax off. If I get some time I might make a video and post it up. Cheers WC

[Ghallahad]

Can't help with the finish choices, but Mackay Cedar is one of the nicest timbers around. Good score.

Pictures????

Yes, very happy with it

20150919_125935.jpg

The one on the right of the main four.

Danish oil. Easily repaired, etc.
Would be my choice.
Lyle

Thanks, I'll give it a try on a scrap piece.

I have also purchased some of this beautiful timber, but am yet to make anything or finish it so my experience with the timber itself is zero. However, when you ask what the "best" finish is I'm afraid that you will get opinions rather than a definitive answer (although they may be expressed as definitive!) I have seen superb finishes with lots of different products - it depends on whether your mate wants a satin finish, a gloss or super-high gloss etc.

Hmmmm yes it always seems that way doesn't it. I guess I was hoping that on the slim chance someone here might have photos of a finished product with this timber, and I could go from there. Searches seem to just pop up threads about getting all sorts of illness if using it. I'm still alive though...for now

[Ghallahad]

If you want a more natural finish I have usedneutral shoe polish as a finish. To achieve a super fine finish Isanded my slab to 600 grit with wet and dry. Then I put metho onto theslab and wet sanded up to 1500g. I then buffed any leftover wet dust off with adry cloth. Next comes the wax on wat off stage. I apply some wax to the slaband then rub it into the timber with 1500G sand paper then buff any of theremaining wax off. If I get some time I might make a video and post it up. Cheers WC

Interesting, I have never heard of anything like that before. Seems like a lot of effort, but I'm sure it's worth it.

[AngelaPetruzzi]

If you haven’t yet made a decision which way or with what to coat your table with, I would strongly suggest making sure the coating is at least food safe. I fully agree with Xanthorhoeas, everyone will have an opinion and as long as they have used a certain product well and good and in the end, the decision is with you. Not an easy task for you as there are so many types of products in the market place.
Whilst there is not picture of the timber you are working with, there are several tables treated with the Kunos countertop oil on this link. http://www.livos.com.au/gallery_furnitureIt is certified food safe and also heat resistant to 50 degrees. It is very similar in maintenance to the Shellac finish mentioned above. The important part when using penetrating oils is not to oversand the surface as one glazes the pores, restricting the oil seeping in. There are ways around this though and if interested can certainly go into more details.

[pthommo]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but i have just purchased my own Mackay Ceder from Boutique Timbers. Planning to use it for a kitchen island benchtop.

What finish did you end up going with? Can you share any pictures of how it turned out?

[Chrism3]

Just want to point out that Mackay Cedar is notorious for giving some people an allergic reaction, mostly skin, but possibly also respiratory. Best to use care.

[pthommo]

Do people get a reaction to a finished/oiled surface or just when sanding/working the timber?

[Chrism3]

As far as I now just working the timber. i have seen some finished furniture which looks magnificent, but no comments about problems.
Here's an example of warnings:
http://baysidewoodturners.com/media/...24,%202012.pdf