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Thread: Sagar sander restoration
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20th July 2019, 05:40 AM #1SENIOR MEMBER
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Sagar sander restoration
I had the good fortune to visit an old foundry to buy a couple of machines recently. This is one of them. Its quite a nice little thing with a bobbin on the backside.
I really like these old isolators
I didn't think it wise to plug it in
First balls up
The sandpaper is held in place by a ring with wing nuts on the stretch the paper over a cork insert.
Original colour very similar to wadkin
A nice brass makers tag which should look good once tarted up
A pretty neat way of holding paper for the bobbin
I don't get the four plugs in the ends bells, on one end their is brass plugs pressed in and on the other end theirs pig threaded plugs.
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20th July 2019, 10:30 PM #2Originally Posted by wallace1973;n1244003
Originally Posted by wallace1973
Originally Posted by wallace1973
MEM315a1.jpg Mem4.jpg
And another older one (late 1920s) with intergral fuses.
1695c.jpg Before.
MEM315k2.jpg MEM315k3.jpg After.
The hinge pin needs a little more work; the stencilling needs another coat of white; and I need to print the reproduced "MEM" transfer.
It had a broken hinge lug. I brased a piece of cast iron in place...
MEM315k1.jpg
...hacksawed, ground, filed and drilled - until it was the same shape as the other lug.
And a similar product by Federal of Australia - with thanks to Auscab. Still part way through refurb.
Fed1.jpg Fed3.jpg
A few other MEM odds and ends I've gathered over a few years.
MEMass1.jpg MEMass2.jpg
Cheers, Vann.Gatherer of rustyplanestools...
Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .
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27th July 2019, 11:49 PM #3SENIOR MEMBER
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A bit more done.
The motor back together sanded and primed
A box of bits ready for cleaning
A soak in that magic evaporust stuff
a quick clean on the wire wheel, then in the blackening solution
A liberal splash of wd40
BIts sanded and primed
Primer helps to highlight bits that need more bodge
The table was pretty rusty but cleaned up nice with very little pitting
I found his under the rust
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28th July 2019, 09:14 AM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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- Sep 2010
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- Port Sorell, Tasmania
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Nice work Mark, what are you using to blue the bare metal?
TonyYou can't use up creativity. The more you use, the more you have. ~Oscar Wilde
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28th July 2019, 07:20 PM #5SENIOR MEMBER
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I'm using a product from frost automotive. I think its the same stuff you get in the little bottles of gun blue but you get a lot more for your money.
https://www.frost.co.uk/frost-metal-blacking-solutions.html
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31st July 2019, 12:33 AM #6GOLD MEMBER
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- Apr 2012
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Couldn’t find a local rep for Frost but there are others selling Parkerizing kits here including:
Parkerising / Steel Blackening – Jane Kits
Black Oxide or Parkerizing | Caswell Australia
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2nd August 2019, 07:13 PM #7SENIOR MEMBER
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I tried one of the kits from Caswell uk and found it a bit weak.
A bit more done. This is the casting I dropped.
To keep it in place I glue it together
Then drill and tap
Of coarse the sole goal of a small tap is to break
Not pretty but secure and filler can hide anything
The isolator has been bashed at some point and is close to dropping to bits
Mig to rescue again
I got a bit paint on bits
The switch is in reasonable condition inside
I need to find a source for 6mm cork or rubber to repair the disc
On a different note I've had this apple tree root ball sat around for a couple of years. I was hoping to stick it on the lathe and see what comes out. I wonder if this fungi will improve it or eat it
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11th August 2019, 11:31 PM #8SENIOR MEMBER
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Finished. I got some self adhesive neoprene for the wheel
I got the foundry where I got this from to cast me some double mitres for the pk, out of bronze
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13th August 2019, 09:09 AM #9Senior Member
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Nice restoration. That has come up really well.
Stewie D
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13th August 2019, 09:40 AM #10.
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- Feb 2006
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- Perth
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Great job.
Did you have the CI hot when you welded it? I found the weld flows better if its hot which of course improves the strength.
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14th August 2019, 12:31 AM #11SENIOR MEMBER
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