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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Rushworth, Victoria
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    63

    Default Retaining wall between preinstalled pool/Gnd

    I've got the unenviable task of installing a deck around an above-ground pool on a sloping block, but the pool installers did a cut and fill on the slope, installed pool and didnt do anything about the 1 metre high bank at the top of the slope next to the pool ( about 250 - 400 mm clearnce ) My question is : Has any body any ideas on installing some sort of retaining wall system in this gap that is able to be installed with very little work room. My only idea so far is to hammer in some star pickets, put pipe over them to strengthen, then chicken wire, shademesh and gravel behind. I would have to tie the tops of the pickets back before building the decking. The soil is clay based with some rock in it and I'm worried about wash from further up the hill and slops from the pool.
    Thanks for any really bright, easy answers
    Andrew

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    Between a rock & a hard place (vic)
    Posts
    367

    Default

    I suggest that you take the time to download this document and have a read. The method that you've suggested is somewhat lacking in structural application as far as retaining walls go

    http://www.hyne.com.au/downloads/dih...ning_walls.pdf

    As an alternative have you thought of cutting the wall back to 1:1 and stabilising it with rocks & plants?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Rushworth, Victoria
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    63

    Default

    By 1:1, do you mean 45 degrees.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Carine WA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    110

    Default

    ]Hi
    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewPatrol
    I've got the unenviable task of installing a deck around an above-ground pool on a sloping block,
    Hmmm? Yes, I *dont* envy your task.
    but the pool installers did a cut and fill on the slope, installed pool and didnt do anything about the 1 metre high bank at the top of the slope next to the pool ( about 250 - 400 mm clearnce )
    Well unless there were some specific reason not to, the pool installers SHOULD have provided SOME form of retention of such a wall of "dirt" (?). If this is clay based then the chance of "stuff" falling in is lessened somewhat. However ultimately something will give!

    My question is : Has any body any ideas on installing some sort of retaining wall system in this gap that is able to be installed with very little work room.
    No. The ONLY way is to do it POROPERLY, as it should have been in the first place. Shortcuts here WILL come back and *bite* you.
    My only idea so far is to hammer in some star pickets, put pipe over them to strengthen, then chicken wire, shademesh and gravel behind. I would have to tie the tops of the pickets back before building the decking.
    Absolutely waaaay to weak, don't even think of attempting this. Retaining walls require strength from the bottom, not just the top!
    The soil is clay based with some rock in it and I'm worried about wash from further up the hill and slops from the pool.
    If there is the possibility of wash form further UP the hill(???) then the need for a retaining wall is even MORE important than just the localised slip of dirt.

    It amazes me that such pool *installers* (the term installers is used very loosely in this context), could not dig out an extra metre of dirt and pile it up at the back for the simple task of backfilling. (after a retaining wall is in place!!).
    Thanks for any really bright, easy answers
    Andrew
    Well my first thought is to call the installers and have them come back and *uninstall* and reinstall at their expense for not doing the job properly in the first place! Though I guess that is unlikely to happen

    The next best thing (unfortunately) is to start digging. You WILL need a substantial retaining wall for something that is 1 metre and already slopes upward to a higher level.

    I don't know what the regulations are, but I would suggest at least 4 brick thick at the base and gradually reduce to DOUBLE brick at the top. ALternatively it may be easier to use those LARGE limestone blocks.

    If you do use brick ensure you put some mesh in the courses every 3 or 5 courses (special mesh is available for this purpose) and some 6mm reinforcing rods from the bottom to the top (run it through the mesh too if you can) to make the whole wall stronger and help prevent cracking when the ground shifts. (It WILL shift as is has been disturbed).

    All I can say is DON'T skimp on the wall material. If you don't feel comfortable carrying out this work, then have professionals do it for you.

    Good luck.
    Kind Regards

    Peter

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Kentucky NSW near Tamworth, Australia
    Age
    86
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    1,067

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    Another way is to have sheet piling installed. Some thing they use in stopping the sides of holes caving in.

    Have a look here.

    http://www.steelcom.com.au/sheet-pile.htm

    Or have a look here.

    http://www.google.com.au/search?clie...=Google+Search

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Rushworth, Victoria
    Posts
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    Default

    Thanks everyone, especially MRFIXIT. If only I had a shotgun and those installers in sight. Thank god its not my pool is all I can say. But isnt it the way these days with getting work done - all these people wanna do is take the money and run. What happened to professionalism and guiding the less knowledgeable through a project. This pool thing has been a nightmare for these people from the beginning. And people wonder why I like to do things myself - ha.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Carine WA
    Age
    75
    Posts
    110

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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewPatrol
    Thanks everyone, especially MRFIXIT.[snip]
    You're welcome
    What happened to professionalism and guiding the less knowledgeable through a project.
    Professionalism is very rare these days and is usually at a premium price (as no doubt we all know).
    This pool thing has been a nightmare for these people from the beginning.
    Please let us know what eventuates.

    The steel piling is a great option, however it would come at a very high price, as the machinery and materials are expensive. Plus you would need to take into account what may lie beneath the area. (though I guess there would be nothing if they dug out a metre of earth.
    And people wonder why I like to do things myself - ha.
    Yes, I know how you feel

    Due to time constraints I was persuaded by SWMBO to get quotes for a tiler to do the floor to ceiling tiles in our reno property. (I was going to do it). So after contacting *9* tilers, ONLY 4 came and gave quotes, the others did not bother turning up (or calling back). 1 was rediculously high and ONLY 1 actually measured properly - HE got the job
    Kind Regards

    Peter

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,133

    Default

    My thoughts are that the pool itself could be the retaining wall.
    The sides of the pool want to bulge out at the bottom but the pool frame prevents this. Could the space between the pool and earth bank be backfilled with a free draining material? The water in the pool would then support the slope.

    ian

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Rushworth, Victoria
    Posts
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    Default

    I can see your logic Ian, but this one of those pools that has the thin metal walls with a liner and the odd upright for bracing. I cant even think how much water is inside it but theres heaps and if it got out of hand the people down the hill would not be impressed. I'd like to keep any thing I do independent of the pool if I can cos if it ever needs emptying ( to repair liner) then they are stuck.
    Thanks any way, nice idea (outside the square) keeps the mental juices flowing over this problem.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    0

    Default

    At 1 meter you might find link wall an appropriate solution. The good points are
    its masonry so it wont rot or rust
    lay a foundation & stack it up, simple installation.
    its redoable, if there are problems in the later just pull it apart & start again.
    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

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