Renovate 108 y/o verandah. Ideas?

[graham.murfett]

Sometimes it starts with "I want a spa... over there" she said.
That's how this saga started.

"I'll have to repair the verandah first" I said, "coz I aint ever going back there to repair it once a spa's been put there."
The spa will be flush with the deck. Privacy will be provide by awnings mounted on the inner side of the posts.
I'm not keen on a spa in the deck, but I don't cook the food.

So, the verandah has been 'got at' twice before. Neither repairs designed to be permanent nor any particular care or skill.
This corner of the verandah represents about 1/4 of the total verandah, and this repair is also being used as a fact finding mission in how to do it easier in future.

I cannot save any timber from joists or bearers. All replacement timber will be local hardwood.
I can save 1/4 to 1/2 of the original 1" x 4" smooth sawn deck boards.
I can save the posts but will need to half lap or similar the bottom of them. AV515 glue and clamps.

* Here is my question. If you know how to, how would YOU repair the lower section of the posts?

Some photos for your entertainment (dunno what went wrong there). It will be nice if it stops raining.
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I was walking on this.
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Hidden behind timber trims
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Spa slab form under deck.
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[Lappa]

Had a similar problem on my 102 year old house. The bottom of the two posts has rotted away but not all the way through, so they were still able to support the weight of the roof. The corner one was the worse. Also the front main beam had some rot as well.

We supported the roof with Accro props and cut about 1.2 metres off the bottom of the posts. Replaced the front beam then 1/2 lapped a new bottom section onto the old post. Lap section was about 250mm long (from memory). The two sections were joined with epoxy and bugel screws.
You can still see a faint line if you look closely.

445CF6C7-D3FE-48BC-BD04-0493E96178A0.jpg3FC7ABE2-B272-4117-822B-59727E3664D2.jpg Expand to see red arrow and line

BTW. The posts were not removed so the lap was cut in the post with a handsaw (sawing upwards ) with it still attached to the roof section.

[graham.murfett]

Thanks Lappa
My half laps wont be nearly as long as yours, the rot is only ~100 long. But same principle

[rwbuild]

I have used 20mm gal pipe doweled into the bottom of the post after it has been cut back to solid section and dowel spliced a new section onto the bottom with Sikaflex in the dowel hols and on both ends of the splice and post, then SS batten screws into the gal dowel. Was on a 2 storey verandah

[Lappa]

I was told to find solid wood right across then go a further 400/500 mm to make sure there are no spores? in the timber hence the length I removed.
My main problem was the timber posts had to be machined down as I couldn’t buy the right dimensioned timber - I had the borrow a thicknesser.
Looks like it will keep you busy for a while.

[graham.murfett]

It'll keep me busy for too long.
I don't earn an income working on my own place
And to top it off, it won't stop raining which slows me down considerably, as I usually moves things outside my workshop when using machines as I need the working space.
I won't begrudge anyone rain though. Not up here!

[graham.murfett]

As if the rain isn't slowing me down, I've changed to a 1/2" blade on the 14/12 bandsaw to half lap the posts, and the cut is drifting all over the place

Maybe I need more tension... As if I don't have enough tension in my life

Edit
Fixed! Align the bigger blade to the wheel!