Red cedar table

[rustynail]

I was approached by a long standing client with a lovely old cedar dresser she had recently purchased from a well respected dealer. The piece had become plural _ big time. It consisted of a jumble of timber tied together with a bit of twine! She asked if I could restore it for her. I said I could but why should I when it was the responsibility of the dealer to supply a fit for purpose article. I explained that any work performed by me would be charged to her, which, in my view, was unfair. I advised her to take it back to the supplier and give them the job. After all, they were the experts.
The explanation given was that this was a very old item and in the interest of keeping it "original" they had not attempted any repairs. But they could now see that work needed to be done and they would perform the necessary. How bloody condescending!
A lovely old piece now takes it's place in a loving household. And yet another antique dealer gets struck off my list of go to suppliers.

[Blackout]

I have only used Danish oil on some of my old hand saw handles I started restoring. Which reminds me that I need to get back to them (30+)

[Blackout]

This is one of my slower jobs. I'm still considering replacing the side and putting 2 drawers back in as was original.

My question is I was to seal some of the surface damage I have found. I want to use hide glue and then apply shellac. Is this something that will work or fail?

[auscab]

Thinned hide glue can be applied and is what’s known as a Glue size . It will act as a barrier and the shellac won’t soak in as deep so the piece will stay lighter in colour because of that .It can fix a rough loose surface or be good at sealing end grain . If the glue is to thick like at it’s normal thickness for glueing wood , it could cause problems .

[Blackout]

Your on the money with a loose splinter piece I was wanting to protect from being pulled up in the future.