Sanding sealer and Proofseal

[Lappa]

I'm making a footstool from scraps of wood for SWMBO. The top is highly figured Cypress pine and the legs and surround are merbau. As there are going to be feet etc on the top I figured on using wipe on poly. Feast Watson recommendusing proofseal on the merbau, due its tannin content, before the poly. They also recommend sanding sealer for open grains which the light section of the Cypress is. I was going to use both on the whole stool. Am I likely to get a "dampening down" of the great colour variations on the Cypress?
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Feast Watson says no but I've had some dubious advice from their tech. line before so I though I'd check with those who use such products.
Cheers

[Alkahestic]

I've used the Feast Watson sanding sealer and didn't have any issues. The sanding sealer needs to be completely sanded off the surface anyway, so it's only left in the recessed grain. I've used shellac and brushed poly over the sanding sealer, no ill effects to report. Haven't used the prooftint so can't help you there.

[dinosour]

I've found their advice line to be pretty good.
Shellac is also very good sealer

[Skew ChiDAMN!!]

You can get away with just wiping down the merbau with acetone or similar and applying the poly as soon as the solvent evaporates off. Metho will do in a pinch.

But Merbau also tends to have large open pores which can also benefit from grain sealing, so why not experiment with some offcuts - or even just sand the surface of your working material before you mill it to size - and see for yourself exactly what results you'd get?

(Me, I use blond shellac or plain old nc sealer if I'm concerned about such colour changes. But they're what I have to hand. )

[Lappa]

The project is done and dusted (9th Aug) and posted in the Pictures forum. I applied two coats of Feast Watson sanding sealer with a full sand back (240g) between coats and after the final coat. I also applied two coats of proofseal with a rub back with 400g between coats and then three coats of Feast Watson wipe on poly rubbed with 400g between coats. As you can see from the pics. in the picture forum, the contrast between the Cypress pine colours was not lost which was my main worry.

only read on if you want to read a gripe.

As to Feast Watson help line - instructions on the back of the proofseal can and the website are different so I rang for clarification. The problem was there was no mention of sanding between coats on the can but the website said to rub back thoroughly with sand paper between coats. Help line said 'dont sand back between coats" then when I mentioned the website he put me on hold then came back "light sand back and just follow what it says on the can, not on the website". I said, what do I clean the brushes with". He said "it's on the can" I said " no it's not - all it states is "hydrocarbon based", Website says metho." . He says "I'll check" Comes back and says "follow what's on the website - use metho"

[KBs PensNmore]

Their help line sounds a bit like the staff at the green shed, USELESS.
Kryn

[woodPixel]

I wasnt going to post it here, but I think there are many ways to do this that would defy belief.

Over the last few months I been very interested in how guitars and violins are made. The finish on a classical guitar are some of the very best Ive ever seen anywhere.

One way of pore filling I couldnt believe was egg white. Rub it in until it dries. Doing it again and presto - perfectly white. Here is a complete writeup: Pore Filling 101 - Australian/New Zealand Luthiers Forum

As a rather prolific box maker I'm always fretting over finish (oh! the pun!) and find other types of woodworking illuminating.

[Lappa]

I've heard of using egg yolk and pigments for painting - Tempera - but not the white.

[Wood Collector]

My Standard proof seal finish is sand to 400g and then 3 coats of proof seal and then sand with 400g and then continue sanding with the finer grits

[Lappa]

My Standard proof seal finish is sand to 400g and then 3 coats of proof seal and then sand with 400g and then continue sanding with the finer grits

Do you use a finish after that? If so, which products.?

Cheers neighbour