Results 1 to 9 of 9
-
25th May 2017, 06:59 PM #1New Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Location
- Singleton
- Posts
- 1
What to do with a hole in the wall made for an old box AC unit?
About two years ago I purchased an old (circa 1910) house in the lower Hunter Valley of NSW, and have since been renovating it whenever I get the chance. Like a lot of old houses around here it’s built almost totally from hardwood timber inside & out. It has a lot of attractive original features – such as 3.6m ceilings, picture rails, 4 pane sash windows, four panel or stained glass doors, a fretwork archway, and hand-painted timber fireplaces with a faux marble finish (pic #1). Unfortunately most of these, as well as almost every surface in the house, were in a fairly dilapidated state and needed a lot of attention.
Because I’m a female, working largely on my own, fairly unskilled but something of a perfectionist, progress has been quite slow. Nonetheless, work on three bedrooms, hallway and lounge room have now just about been completed and I’m pretty happy with the way it looks.
However, I’m now faced with the problem of what to do with the hole left in one of the walls after a very old box-type air conditioning unit in the lounge room was removed. It was replaced by a new split-system AC high up on the wall near the ceiling in a different location. This hole is roughly 84cm(w) x 52cm(h), and is located about 50cm below the picture rail, between a window and the corner of the room. The walls are made of tongue & groove lining boards, around 10cm wide.
The AC installation men have put a temporary sheet metal covering over the gap in the external weatherboards, but so far the only thing I have done with the inside is to hang a painting over the hole as a temporary disguise while I try to come up with a solution (pic #2). I imagine the best thing to do would be to try and find some identical lining boards to install. But to make this look good, rather than an obvious patch, I would then have to pull apart the window framing on one side to fit in the new boards, plus the corner timber covering as well.
So although this process would be the best solution, it’s probably way above my very limited carpentry skills, and therefore I have held off doing anything while trying to come up with some other idea.
I haven’t had any great flashes of inspiration, but the following possibilities are now on my list:
(i) getting a window to fill in the gap (but would a small window in this position could look quite weird?);
(ii) filling the gap in with glass bricks (but this might look hideous in an old house?);
(iii) making up a small ‘traditional looking’ shelving unit that would fit into the gap, possibly protruding 3-4cm out from the wall; or (iv) or simply patching up the hole with some sort of timber sheeting then covering it up with a painting or wall hanging.
Is there any woodworking guru out there who could offer any advice about what would be the best way to go, keeping in mind that it would be done by someone who’s very much a carpentry novice but likes to do as much as possible herself? Or better still, provide some alternative suggestions? I would be very appreciative of any ideas whatsoever, especially if they don't detract from the 'federation-era' look I'm trying to maintain.
Many thanks in advance to whoever has taken the time to respond.
-
25th May 2017, 07:32 PM #2SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2016
- Location
- Perth WA Australia
- Posts
- 95
Hi,
Welcome to the forum.
Depending on how creative you want to get and the overall effect of the room you're going for, there are a few options.
1) Replace the entire section, i can't see the photos but a trip to your local Bunnings should be able to help identify the correct boards. If its the product i think you're talking about its called V groove project panel. They'll cut it to length for you too.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/2400-x-1...panel_p0390169
2) Make it into some kind of display box, eg install a shelf into the gap and stick a decorative frame around the opening and put some nice ornaments into it
3) Depending on location and ease of access turn it into bookshelf or storage location.
4) Leave the painting there.
5) See if you find find a vent cover like this, to place over the hole.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/haron-30...-vent_p0814362
6) Put a tall piece of furniture in front?
-
27th May 2017, 02:03 PM #3Woodworking mechanic
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Location
- Sydney Upper North Shore
- Posts
- 710
Welcome to the forum.
I can't see the pictures either but being the owner of a 100 year old house that we have faithfully restored, I personally would be replacing the boards with new ones. They may be available from one of the restoration businesses that either sell old or remake. Also, try local timber yards as often the building timbers were sourced locally and there is a thread here somewhere, re an old building, that the local timber yard still had the old machining profile cutters.
I look forward to the photos so I can actually see the affected area and get an idea of the work involved.
-
28th May 2017, 02:35 PM #4
Externally, replace the weather boards. This should not be too difficult. You may need to fit a piece of timber as a "stud" if one was cut when the air conditioner was fitted.
Internally, yes replace the paneling. Obtaining identical boards may be difficult. Either have them made or get the closest you can. Once painted you may not see the difference.
-
28th May 2017, 05:12 PM #5
Welcome carolt07 and congratulations of tackling such a task. I agree with the previous posters that externally it will just be a question of tracking down the same profile weather board from the demolition yards. It will be visible but because external boards are joined it will be in the acceptable realm. The main standout difference is that the vertical joins will be in alignment instead of staggered as they would be normally. You can purchase an external "no more gaps" to fill the joins which is especially made for weatherboards (made by Selleys I think).
Internally it is a little more difficult as the horizontal joins (ie top and bottom will be difficult to match. Sand or plane the boards to match once installed and again "no more gaps" is your friend. I have just realised I am making an assumption here that your lining boards are installed vertically. I too cannot see the pictures. You may be able to edit your post and re-load them. Make sure that the pictures are listed at the foot of your post and check the "preview" facility before posting. This problem has caught me out a number of times.
My memory is that there is (or was) a demolition yard near Beresfield and several in Newcastle itself. I don't recall any such places nearer to Singleton. Fortunately you don't require any long pieces. Below is an external and internal scenario similar to yours. The external one is where a heater was removed and internally there used to be a walk in wardrobe.
P1000688.jpgP1000689.jpg
The house is the same era as yours so a blemish or two seem part and parcel.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
-
28th May 2017, 11:44 PM #6GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Murray Bridge SA
- Posts
- 293
The above suggestions are good, but filling in the hole with replacement sections, I wouldn't do, as you can see on Paul's outside photo, it sticks out like the proverbial sore thumb, Sorry Paul. I'd replace the area with longer pieces, staggering the joins 2-3 studs away from the hole, so that id didn't look so obvious. The inside I'd take the architrave and the piece in the corner off, and take a piece with, as a sample, to get pieces long enough to replace that section.
I know it's extra work, but will be worth it in the long run, as it won't be seen as a patch up. If I were closer I'd give you a hand.
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
-
29th May 2017, 08:39 AM #7
Kryn
No problem. I could have done it better, but it was still a vast improvement on the bit of tin that was there when we bought the house. I don't know what timber is in carol's house, but in my case it is 100 year old Cypress Pine and very brittle. Once you start prising boards from the wall the thinner sections of the weatherboards are prone to splitting. Before you know where you are half the wall has to be removed because of breakages.
Inside the house I can see where the repair to the doorway was made, but you have to go looking for it. It did require some planing of the Vee groves to match up despite using boards pulled from elsewhere in the house. Again I had the same problem with the Cypress Pine.
I can see the original pix now and I see that the internal boards are horizontal. It is still the same deal to my mind, but it looks as though taking the whole board through to the window would be an easier option there.
Regards
PaulBushmiller;
"Power tends to corrupt. Absolute power corrupts, absolutely!"
-
29th May 2017, 09:43 AM #8
Being an ex Singletonian, there isn't much around in the way of recycled building products.
The inside look like standard V groove lining boards. Take a short piece off and take it with you to check for size. As Paul suggested, replace the section from the wall to the window.
There used to be a recycled building supply place in Melbourne St East Maitland. I don't know if they are still there.
Do a search for building material recyclers. There are a couple in Newcastle.Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
-
15th June 2017, 10:45 PM #9
I know it's an older thread but......
Hi Carol and welcome to the forum. As others have already said, congratulations on what you have already achieved. I have some old profile external weatherboard laying around and, if you can get some measurements so that I can compare, you are welcome to enough to do the job.
fletty
PS, could you tape a rule or measuring tape across both the internal and external profiles and take a picture?a rock is an obsolete tool ......... until you don’t have a hammer!
Similar Threads
-
Getting rid of the in-wall AC Unit
By Reno RSS Feed in forum BRICKWORK, CONCRETING, PAVING, RENDERING, etcReplies: 0Last Post: 26th November 2009, 02:10 PM
Bookmarks