Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 28
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    57
    Posts
    80

    Default Using floor polyurethane for furniture

    Hi guys, please help a newbie.

    As a beginner I am lazy and impatient with finishes. However I am trying to improve get a better end result with each project.

    I am close to completing some stands to raise my computer monitors off the desk. Rather like simple cabinets.
    They are pine with some darker brown hardwood face trim for the front.

    The radiata pine is new. The hardwood trim are old ex wall panels from my house which had some nice varnish. I don't know the timber but it has a pleasant smell when worked. Pleasant to me anyway. I am sanding that varnish off back to bare wood.

    I have almost 4 litres of left over floor polyurethane. I used this on another piece and I found it was very thick and doesn't give an ideal result.
    So now I am thinking that I could water down the floor polyurethane with white spirits and apply more than 2 coats.

    Is that a good idea?
    Should I mix something else?
    What proportions should I use?

    Should I apply with a rag, rather than a brush?
    How many coats should I aim for?

    I already have this polyurethane some white spirits, plenty of terps and I think I have some meths. I would like to use what I've got if it is OK.

    Thanks in advance.
    Dave.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
    Posts
    332

    Default

    You should be able to thin the poly ok. Try the turps/white spirits, or check the can for the recommended thinner. Mix up small batches and test on scrap. Try 3:1, 2:1 or 1:1 (depends on how thick it is to start with) - poly:thinner
    I would aim for 2 coats minimum and see how it looks. Again, test on scrap.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,184

    Default

    WHS


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    57
    Posts
    80

    Default

    OK So I tried this. I thought I'd give you an update on attempts. I am spraying the oil based floor polyurethane with an air compressor.
    The spray gun is cheap and I don't know what I am doing. When I adjust it, it is very hard to see any difference with the almost invisible ployu spray. So that could be part of my problem but I don't think that is the main issue.

    (He says without taking the time to test various settings on scrap and wait for them to dry)

    Of course being a beginner and lacking patience I completely ignored the sage advice to test on scrap first. That would have taken days. Pffst!! I did test each mixture on the underside where it is not visible so your assistance is not completely wasted on me. Well I'm calling it a test. Well I sprayed the underside. Waited a whole 20 seconds. Decided that was fine and then did the whole lot. Yeah I know, I know - still a long way to go on the patience front.

    First I thinned it with terps. About 5:1 or so. I did 3 coats. This left some runs which I had to sand back by hand each time. Particularly on the hardwood drawer fronts. This was too time consuming to sand back each time.
    I tried about about 10:1 (roughly). This avoided the runs. However there is very little material in the spray. Hence each coat was very fine and made the most minor difference.
    It was not smooth once it dried either. However a rub down just with my bare hands made it acceptably smooth. I did about 4 coats like this before I just ran out of patience to persevere.
    The problem is that rather than a high gloss protective finish I have a much more subtle finish.
    I say 'problem' but that is the wrong word. I don't have that thick high gloss finish one gets from polyu. I have a much more natural looking finish. So perhaps I should be glad. However it is like I ended up with the opposite extreme so I'd left wondering if there is sufficient protection - AFTER 7 COATS!!!
    (Did I mention patience was a work in progress)?

    Of course the obvious thing I should have done is try 8:1 or 7:1 and perhaps I would have found a happy balance. But bugger it. I've decided the project is finished. So it's finished.

    As I said, at the start, my patience for finishing has a tremendously long way to go.

    Anyway I didn't find the correct ratio but I think it is somewhere between 5:1 and 10:1.
    I did get much more efficient at setting up and cleaning out the sprayer. So if I can find the right mix it will be a lot faster and better than a brush.
    I still have over 3 litres of this stuff so I'm sure there will be another project to try it on.
    However next project I'm going to try a Cabots combination stain and gloss with a brush or rag.

    I also just bought some shellac to try in the future. I suppose I could spray that on a future project and see how that goes with a sprayer.
    I know, I know, test it with some scrap. Psft!! Yeah right. That would take days!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    710

    Default

    Only 7 coats? You wuss! I put on 20 coats of shellac by hand with cloth. Even with 20 coats it's still a very thin finish though and I still wonder whether they are enough.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,133

    Default

    If your level of patience level is that low, perhaps you should accept surfaces with no finish or take up a hobby other than building stuff out of wood.

    as a general rule of thumb -- achieving a good to excellent finish takes almost as long the actual build. Factoring in drying / curing time, the finishing step can be much longer
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Central Coast, NSW
    Posts
    614

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ian View Post
    If your level of patience level is that low, perhaps you should accept surfaces with no finish or take up a hobby other than building stuff out of wood.

    as a general rule of thumb -- achieving a good to excellent finish takes almost as long the actual build. Factoring in drying / curing time, the finishing step can be much longer
    I can't agree more. I'm really irritated by the people who ask for help but frankly admit that they are 'lazy' and lack patience - like we are supposed to make up for their shortcomings. How do they think we acquired sufficient knowledge to achieve good finishing. I recall it was a long hard slog and there were no shortcuts.
    Apologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    North of the coathanger, Sydney
    Age
    69
    Posts
    0

    Default

    not sure what the problem is
    water it down until it's about the consistency of water. wipe on with a rag (lint free, old sheets are good or t-shirts)
    wander off and do something else. When dry - a few hours, another coat
    next day light sand with 400 or 500 grip - another coat, repeat until happy with build up - no drips and super finish - wax at end if you want.

    You've got to take it easy otherwise it will always look pretty sh*thouse

    I'd also suggest you buy ubeauts finishing book - on his website
    regards
    Nick
    veni, vidi,
    tornavi
    Without wood it's just ...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    57
    Posts
    80

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker View Post
    not sure what the problem is
    water it down until it's about the consistency of water. wipe on with a rag (lint free, old sheets are good or t-shirts)
    wander off and do something else. When dry - a few hours, another coat
    next day light sand with 400 or 500 grip - another coat, repeat until happy with build up - no drips and super finish - wax at end if you want.

    You've got to take it easy otherwise it will always look pretty sh*thouse

    I'd also suggest you buy ubeauts finishing book - on his website
    In hindsight this is what I should do. I thought the spray would give me a superior result but I'm going to try a better quality finish with a rag and perhaps it will not only be better but also a little faster in the end.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Brisbane
    Age
    57
    Posts
    80

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Arron View Post
    I can't agree more. I'm really irritated by the people who ask for help but frankly admit that they are 'lazy' and lack patience - like we are supposed to make up for their shortcomings. How do they think we acquired sufficient knowledge to achieve good finishing. I recall it was a long hard slog and there were no shortcuts.
    Wow!
    I was trying to be light humored but I guess my dry sence of humour is not for everyone.
    I'm sorry you feel that I expected you to 'make up for [my] shortcomings'.
    How exactly you got that expectation I don't know but it wasn't my intention.

    I would like to think I have enough brain cells left to realise I need to do a few hard yards. I just deal with it with a little self depreciating humor. Obviously not everyone's cup of tea I guess.

    Sorry if I hit a raw nerve for some people.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
    My YouTube channel: https://youtu.be/2_KPRN6I9SE

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,133

    Default

    not so much a raw nerve but it was a little difficult to determine if you were being slap-dash or humorous.

    I gleamed more more towards the slap-dash than humorous.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Thornton NSW
    Posts
    8

    Default

    you're using solvent borne poly on floors? I haven't used that in about twenty years. Went to water borne polyurethane and haven't looked back, much quicker dry times and easy to work with. Sprays nicely with a hvlp gun and 1mm tip.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Sydney Upper North Shore
    Posts
    710

    Default

    I took it as good natured humour hence my response.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    San Antonio, Texas, USA
    Posts
    339

    Default

    I strongly recommend against the idea of putting floor finishes on anything but the floor. Doing otherwise just encourages people to put their feet on your furniture.
    Innovations are those useful things that, by dint of chance, manage to survive the stupidity and destructive tendencies inherent in human nature.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,133

    Default

    only if you tell 'em



    it's a bit like a reverse of the Palmolive (R) dishwashing commercial "you're soaking in it"
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

Similar Threads

  1. How do I level heavy furniture on a wavy timber floor??
    By Reno RSS Feed in forum GENERAL ODDS N SODS
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 16th August 2013, 02:00 AM
  2. Replies: 22
    Last Post: 26th May 2011, 11:36 PM
  3. How to re-coat a floor with polyurethane
    By Extracare in forum FLOORING
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 3rd April 2008, 09:45 AM
  4. Preventing furniture scratching floor
    By John G in forum FLOORING
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 9th July 2003, 04:22 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •