Oak finish

[steveo 1]

Hi Guys,

I don't have a lot of experience an been reading heaps but cant seem to find what I am looking for.

I am trying to finish a tv cabinet that is made of Tasmania Oak (I think it is). It is the one where all the bits are glued together to make a big panel (laminate I think it is called). I purchased the material Masters awhile back for a good price and finally got around to working on it. It is called black label something, I through the wrapper out.

Anyway it has a slight pinkish colour through most of the panel but its not uniform. I would like to bring the pink out a little more and maybe pink up the bits where it is more creamy/white.

I was planning on using a sanding sealer and than waxing. But don't think this will give what I am looking for. My test piece looked ok but not a lot of pink tone showing. I am not looking for a lot of shine I would like the wood to do the talking. I don't really want the grain popping (I think it is called) to much as I am not a big fan of how the open grain goes dark on Oak.

I have currently sanded the unit to 240 grit.

Any suggestions?

Thanks

[Xanthorrhoeas]

Welcome to the forums Steve,

Finishing questions don't seem to be getting a lot of answers these days - the usual forums suspects must be on holidays! Is this is a pre-fabricated cabinet that you assemble or something you have made from laminated timber? The reason for the question is that, if it is the latter situation then you should have lots of offcuts? offcuts are good because you can use them to experiment on. If it is a prefab then you can only experiment on areas that won't be seen or that you can sand. I am assuming it is solid timber, not veneered as modern veneers are paper thin and easy to sand through.

If you look at the forums home page you will see an advert for a Polishers Handbook. It is worth buying. No, I haven't met the author and do not get a cut from sales or recommendations, but I am impressed with my copy of the book, even though I have been French Polishing for 40 years (non-professionally). In the handbook you will see there are sections on wood dyes and how to use them as well as lots of info on different finishes.

Once you have the colour right - or are prepared to accept the colour that you have - it is just a matter of choosing a finish that does not change the colour more than absolutely necessary. Your choice could be something like white shellac - applied diluted with a very fine natural bristle brush or rubber (see the handbook), which would give very little colour change - it is just like a stronger solution of the UBeaut sanding sealer really. Shellac finishes do not have to be glossy and figure "popping" as once dry you can simply rub over with 0000 steel wool and a good wax polish (not beeswax which stays sticky and attracts dirt). There are also some very easy to apply crystal clear low sheen, water-based polys like the water-based Estapol that may suit you.

My experience of the Danish oils and other oil and poly finishes, although excellent in their own place, is that they will considerably darken your timber.

Hope this helps, Good luck.

David

[Xanthorrhoeas]

Postscript. (Presuming solid timber)

I usually sand to at least 400 grit, sometimes higher (1000) for a gloss French Polish finish. Most finishers recommend to at least 320 grit.

[Arron]

Actually, if it's Tassie Oak then the pink will disappear. Many timbers have a pink tinge when recent cut. Over time it fades. It's therefore rather unwise to try to match it.