Restoring Timber Stairs

[Sorehorse]

Just pulled up some old carpet from a number of stairs and found the timber to be in quite good condition and would like to restore same. There are 15 steps all removable] with an old coating of either lacquer/varnish/stain??

Questions are:
1. Do I need to sand and remove every last bit of the previous coating before recoating?

2. I only have an orbital sander which I think will be quite time-consuming and wonder if the investment in a belt sander would be a worthwhile option. If so, what size/type?

3. What would be the best coating [preferably water based] to use, that would stand up to the wear?

[JB]

1. Yes. though you could use paint stripper instead of a sander. If you use paint stripper you shouldn't need to use a belt sander.

2. A belt sander is much faster. Any model that takes a 4" wide (100mm) belt is best. My Makita 9924DB has done over 100 hours with only bearings needing replacing.

3. Floor finish options include estapol and tung oil.

[rsser]

trouble with both belt and ROS is getting into the corners.

btw a ROS with coarse paper can take a lot of stuff off.

Reckon you'll be up for quite a lot of hand sanding and scraping. Scraping with eg a Skarsten will get you into the corners; then hand sand, then ROS.

Edit: re q. 1 ... yes, unless you're just looking to touch up. That works if you're v. good at matching and if there's not a lot of it to do. Otherwise, off with the lot.

[Sorehorse]

Thanks Guys, for your response to my very first post. Forgot to mention, the steps are all easily removable and conveniently clamp into my Triton superjaws, so no problems with tight corners etc.

Had a rush of blood to the brain yesterday arvo and went out "window shopping" for a belt sander. Tossed up whether to buy a "cheapy" for around $79 [Ryobi] to just try and get through the stairs project, or spend extra bucks and get something that would last a lot longer. After a couple of tool supplier visits, general consensus seemed to be to pay extra bucks for a better quality tool and coincidentally ended up with a Makita 9924DB [before reading JB's reply] so now feel very comfortable with my purchase.

Never used a belt sander before, so after a little practice on the underside of one of the steps [and a few grooves] I gained enough confidence to attack the upper side. Although only on the first of 15 steps, I feel very happy with my purchase and the ease the sander does the job and the initial daunting task now seems a lot friendlier. The 100mm 40 grit gobbles up the previous coating and am just trying the 80 grit, which still seems to marginally "fluff" up the grain. Do you think I would get a better result by finishing off the final sanding with my Makita 1/4 sheet sander with a 120 or 150 grit, or stay with a 120 grit belt? I think the steps are maple.

Whilst having the "rush of blood" I also bought a can of "Polycure Durapol 1045 Super Gloss", so I'll see how that goes after filling the millions of staple holes with Timber Mate water based wood filler.

Thanks again for your feedback

Ron

[JB]

I'm amazed the 9924DB is still available (mine's 10 years old). Speaks in its favour I guess.

You'll find yu can remove material fastest by first sanding across the grain and finishing with the grain to remove the scratches. You may find you only need to use 80grit, certainly no coarser than 60grit on maple. A worn 80grit will finish much the same as a new 120grit. On flooring random/orbital sanding may not be needed, assuming the belt sander doesn't dig in at all. This can happen if it's not kept flat while working. It also pays to be dragging the belt sander towards you as you depress the button to start sanding, to avoid an ititial 'skid mark'.

Good luck

[rsser]

Yep, they're a good unit. I've had a 3" Makita for over 20 years. Same model is still made and parts are still available.

Think you can get 180 grit belts. But suck it and see at 120.

It's worth buying a rubber stick to unclog the belts; gives you more life out of them.

[Sorehorse]

Rubber stick??? I guess this is some type of soft rubber that wears away as it de-clogs the belt, the guys at my local hardware store won't laugh at me will they, when I ask for one?? I really do need something though as I only got through 4 steps [1050 x 270 x 40mm] before having to put on another new 40 grit belt on and that was even after giving the old belt a good clean with a stiff brush! The 80 and 120 grit seem to be standing up OK. Now into my 6th step [after pulling off the carpet and underlay, then pulling out an average of 200 staples each step and then filling holes with wood filler]. Still find I have to use the orbital sander with 120 paper to get a good finish, even after finishing with the 120 on the belt. Might have to track down one of those 180 grit belts, I know Bunnies don't stock them.

Good point about going across the grain with the initial sand, seemed to get rid of a lot before subsequent sanding with the grain. Would love to know what the original stain/lacquer was, [which I discovered after pulling the carpet off] I reckon if you could still get it, it would sell really well, as it is damn hard to remove, even with the initial 40 grit.

I note one has to really keep an eye on the tracking adjuster on the Makita, as it appears you must have to reset it every time you change a belt over, is this normal?? Thank goodness for the 2 little ceramic protection pads on the inner side, otherwise I am sure I would have "2 halves" by now of a "El cheapo" sander and that is only after a couple of hours work since new!!
Ron

[JB]

Soounds like an estapol/polyurethane finish if it's that hard to get off.

I reckon the 40grit belts are too coarse in some situations and tend to skid across the surface. You might want to try a 60grit.

You're obviously doing a very thorough job but it's worth remembering that floors/stairs dont need as fine a finish as furniture at eye level.

Tracking on my belt sander seemed to settle down after a while, at first I had to constantly adjust it but now I rarely touch it.

[rsser]

Nope, they shouldn't laugh at you at Bunnies etc if you ask for a rubber stick. If they're in the know they'll be using one themselves ;-}

It's just flexible rubber that helps pull stuck on blobs of finish off your belt while you have it running. Alt is the sole of a Dunlop volley.

I find the tracking needs to be reset after each belt change.

[woodcutta]

Cleaning belts

My Drum Sander manual says to clean the belt with a rubber block, or if the belt is cloth backed, it can be soaked in thinners and then scrubbed with a nylon brush. Haven't tried it yet, but sounds like a good idea.

Woodcutta

[Sorehorse]

It is now 5 weeks since I started this project and after wearing out 2 x 40 grit, 2 x 60 grit and 1 x 80 grit 100mm sanding belts, plus numerous 120 grit 1/4 sheets on my orbital sander, for final finishing, I have finally finished the sanding process and have applied the first 2 coats of "Polycure Durapol 1045 Super Gloss" finish.

I must admit, after a week of pulling the carpet off each of the 15 steps, pulling out an average of 200 staple from each and constant sanding, I had to take nearly 2 weeks off from the project, as it left me with severe aches in my wrists and thumb bases. I guess this was due mainly due to constant use of the orbital sander [read something about this in a post ages ago, but couldn't find recent reference as to precautions] or the fact that I'm just getting older and not really used to constant work with electrical tools!!!

So far, I'm very pleased with the appearance of the maple steps after only 2 coats, of the recommended 3 coats. I have just finished the 2nd coat on the last step and note the step I coated first [about 3 hours ago] seems virtually dry. My query is, would there be any reason why I shouldn't start the final coat in say, another 2 hours or wait for the "minimum" 8 hours indicated in the directions?? Is there some "curing" process that needs to take place?

Also, I was told when I purchased the Polycure some time ago, that as far as clear finishes go, Polyurethane is the toughest, followed by 2 pack products then followed by normal clear lacquers, is this true?

[RETIRED]

It is now 5 weeks since I started this project and after wearing out 2 x 40 grit, 2 x 60 grit and 1 x 80 grit 100mm sanding belts, plus numerous 120 grit 1/4 sheets on my orbital sander, for final finishing, I have finally finished the sanding process and have applied the first 2 coats of "Polycure Durapol 1045 Super Gloss" finish.

I must admit, after a week of pulling the carpet off each of the 15 steps, pulling out an average of 200 staple from each and constant sanding, I had to take nearly 2 weeks off from the project, as it left me with severe aches in my wrists and thumb bases. I guess this was due mainly due to constant use of the orbital sander [read something about this in a post ages ago, but couldn't find recent reference as to precautions] or the fact that I'm just getting older and not really used to constant work with electrical tools!!!

So far, I'm very pleased with the appearance of the maple steps after only 2 coats, of the recommended 3 coats. I have just finished the 2nd coat on the last step and note the step I coated first [about 3 hours ago] seems virtually dry. My query is, would there be any reason why I shouldn't start the final coat in say, another 2 hours or wait for the "minimum" 8 hours indicated in the directions?? Is there some "curing" process that needs to take place?

Also, I was told when I purchased the Polycure some time ago, that as far as clear finishes go, Polyurethane is the toughest, followed by 2 pack products then followed by normal clear lacquers, is this true?

When in doubt follow the instructions.