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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1,183

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    You could flog the entire surface very thoroughly with a length of heavy chain

    Make it an antique.....speeding up the kids job

    Seriously, a quick sand and steam out the dents.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    613

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    Not trying to be a smart aleck here, but, had the same problem on a desk built for student son in the days of black and white.

    They only solution I finally came up with was, another refinish, polish and covered with safety glass. Yes, the glass was expensive, but the finish has remained like a new store bought one. No scratches, dings or biro impressions, once in a while wipe over with a damp cloth and back to square one. 30+ years on and counting.
    Regards,
    Bob

    Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    West Gippsland, Vic
    Age
    72
    Posts
    394

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    Hey mate, there are others here more expert than me but here's my penny's worth. If you use polyurethane, 24 hrs is nowhere near long enough to cure it. 7 days minimum per coat with a light sand between coats with 240grit and wipe down with a tack cloth to get the surface dustfree for the next coat. Use new poly not old stuff that's been sitting around growing a thick skin on top. Mind you, polyurethane on Blackwood is sacrilege. 😲
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    McBride BC Canada
    Posts
    0

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    Poly is a soft, flexible plastic coating, microns thick. It can't offer diddly squat for mechanical protection.
    To keep the table looking like it's never been used, I'd suggest 1/8" Plexiglas = methacrylate sheet.
    Off at Uni, I missed my kids. The dinged up table kept them with me.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    53

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    I don't think it would help with dents but you can get self repairing clear coat for cars, is there anything similar for timber?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    110

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shedhand View Post
    Hey mate, there are others here more expert than me but here's my penny's worth. If you use polyurethane, 24 hrs is nowhere near long enough to cure it. 7 days minimum per coat with a light sand between coats with 240grit and wipe down with a tack cloth to get the surface dustfree for the next coat. Use new poly not old stuff that's been sitting around growing a thick skin on top. Mind you, polyurethane on Blackwood is sacrilege. 
    I agree with the Shedmeister,

    Blackwood under plastic is a sin. Seems to me that the easiest method of saving your table from more damage is to do what most have suggested by way of stripping the table and refinishing (after steaming). But I would refinish the table using a robust oil finish such as Organoil Hard burnishing Oil. Then I'd go and buy a couple of robust plastic desk protection pads to use over the top for the kids to use.

    Alternatively, rather than plasticize the table, buy a plastic table for the kids to use. And there's always keeping the table like it is now and savoring the memories of this time in your later age. This should not be underestimated.

    Regards,

    Rob

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    0

    Default

    we keep comming back to the issue that the timber is soft and that is what is being indented ....... unless you run a very very thick hard coating you will not solve your problem.

    By far the best comp[omise is to refinish the top then get a sheet of glass cut to size and put that over the table top till the kids leave home.

    cheers
    Any thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
    Most powertools have sharp teeth.
    People are made of meat.
    Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Or teach them to put something under the paper, writing on something soft is horrible anyway.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    0

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    Lovely Blackwood table Tony. I wouldn't put a cover on it either.

    When I made my dining table I used a two part Intergrain finish. It is like a thin layer of glass. Shiny and hard. I didn't want to put any cover over the timber.

    After nearly twenty years it still looks good apart from a ding from a heavy casserole dish and a candle burn spot.

    I can't complain about how tough it is.

    But I really don't like the thick glossy finish.

    Now I finish dining tables with Kunos Oil. I go for a satin/low sheen finish. I can still feel the timber.
    General marks wash off no problem and a wipe over with more oil maybe once a year keeps it looking great.

    Your pens and pencils will still make indentations but the stains will wipe off.

    A temporary cover might work but it is a shame the kids wouldn't get to work on the nice timber.

    Blackwood is reasonably hard so you aren't going to end up with it looking like and old workbench.

    My preference would be to clean off the marks as well as you can and give it a coat of Kunos oil or similar. Re do this when you think it needs it. keep enjoying the the look and feel of the beautiful Blackwood.

    When the kids leave home you might sand out the grafitti and re-oil or just re-oil and enjoy the history.
    Scally
    __________________________________________
    The ark was built by an amateur
    the titanic was built by professionals

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