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Thread: Box for Dies

  1. #16
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    Petone, NZ
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    Default

    I got a call from Flecter Steel late this morning - my length of tube had arrived.

    "Great" I thought. I'll go get it, and cut a thread to see how it goes (with work-in-progress photos of course).

    I paid, and the guy was manuoevring the length onto the cutting bench. My eyes aren't real bad, but they're not as sharp as they used to be (it's my 61st today). Fortunately I noticed something amiss before he made the cut. "Is that square tube?" I asked.

    So I'll have to go back on Monday...

    At least it was their mistake, not mine.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  2. #17
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    The best ideas come from the need.

    Great going on keeping these parts together and not as draw rattles.

  3. #18
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    Sep 2008
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    Default First Thread Cut

    I finally got around to playing with the dies today.

    The tube I ordered measures 15.85mm OD.

    On a test piece I tried creeping up on the right size, taking four cuts before it was down to a size that would take a nut. But even then the tube kept turning in the vise (I had it clamped between two pine blocks). I don't know if that's because the dies are blunt, or the resistance of the weld in the steel, or maybe it normally takes a lot of torque to cut such a fine thread?

    aCond1.jpg aCond2.jpg

    I may have to invest in a pipe vise.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    That thread looks good!

    One way to address the problem of thin walled tube slipping is to cut one shallow partial thread, put a nut or coupler on there, and place the hex of that in the vice (or just use a large spanner) whilst you thread the other end. Then spin it around and repeat.

    A 16mm, 5/8" thread will take quite some torque to produce. I'm not sure whether the fineness of the pitch makes any difference. Does it feel notchy as the die cutting edges pass the weld?

    Graham.

  5. #20
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    Dec 2007
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    Vann do you have any Treflex or similar cutting/threading lubricant.
    I have a tobacco tin of Treflex which my Dad had,it must be 80 years old if it's a day.
    I have scored some steel flexible conduit if you want it.
    It is about 1metre long by 1/2" OD and 9.6mm ID.
    An odd threaded connector has turned up also, it's 3/4" ID any good to you?
    H.
    Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)

  6. #21
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    Jan 2007
    Location
    Katoomba NSW
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    Definitely need some cutting fluid. Treflex is great stuff.
    You need a chain vice to hold the tube. I still have the one I made in the apprentice annex at the SECV workshops 36 years ago.
    36 years ago...I need a lie down.
    Those were the droids I was looking for.
    https://autoblastgates.com.au

  7. #22
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    Sep 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oldbikerider View Post
    ...Does it feel notchy as the die cutting edges pass the weld?
    Hi Graham. I didn't notice any "notchy" feeling. But then, with 4 cutters, there would have been one cutter near the weld at all times.

    Quote Originally Posted by clear out
    Vann do you have any Treflex or similar cutting/threading lubricant.
    I have a tobacco tin of Treflex which my Dad had,it must be 80 years old if it's a day...
    Hi Henry. I had to google Treflex. I found one that does smoothies - but I don't think that would make a good cutting fluid .

    I was taught to use tallow as a lubricant for thread cutting. I have a small container of tallow, that must be over 40 years old, that I use the lubricate woodscrews. Unfortunately, if I restrict my use to woodscrews it should just last me until I'm in my wheelchair - so none surplus for thread cutting . I used medium machine oil while cutting that thread - I need to get something better.

    Quote Originally Posted by clear out
    ...I have scored some steel flexible conduit if you want it.
    It is about 1metre long by 1/2" OD and 9.6mm ID.
    An odd threaded connector has turned up also, it's 3/4" ID any good to you?
    If only that flexible conduit was 5/8" or 3/4" - I don't have any 1/2" terminators (and it's probably a bit small if I did). I'll take the threaded connector if you don't mind.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  8. #23
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    Dec 2007
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    Default


    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    South Africa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I was taught to use tallow as a lubricant for thread cutting. I have a small container of tallow, that must be over 40 years old, that I use the lubricate woodscrews.
    In the absence of anything else, I've been told that dishwashing liquid works. Specifically Sunlight dishwashing liquid, but I'm not sure if you get that there. I've not cut very many threads, but when I've needed to, it has worked OK for me.

  10. #25
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    Apr 2012
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    Sydney
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    Trefolex is locally made / distributed by CNC in Aus / NZ.
    You should find it in any of your local automotive stores.

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