Advice on doing a 2Pac Finish

[Tegmark]

Was this on the same timber (as per previous post in this thread https://www.woodworkforums.com/f9/can...roperly-207490) or something different? How fine did you sand prior and did you use any grain filler?

When I have used it on Teak, Meranti, and another unidentified furniture timber (that I think was poorly cut silky oak), I got the exact same result. It didn't matter how many coats, there was still evidence of grain. In each case it was wet sanded in between coats. I measured it (because I could at the time) and the depth averaged out at about 0.1mm after 3 coats. To be honest, on the pieces of furniture it doesn't bother me because there are no broad flat surfaces. On the meranti window sills it still irritates me when I clean them, but then 15 minutes later it has a layer of salt on it and I can't tell anymore.

On harder timber I haven't found it to be so much of an issue.

Hi SPF.

It was on all of my test pieces that are pine & tas oak. How obvious this is depends on how flat & glossy the top clear surface is. I sanded the raw wood with 180grit & some 240 & did not use any grain filler as at the time I was lazy as these were just small pieces & to me the grain of tas oak was too small & I thought to just fill them up with the clear. Maybe its the lack of grain filler that does this? I fill try this my self as I have never used grain filler.

On another old piece of generic hardware ply that has 6 thick coats of oil based polyu on it, it is extreme by comparison to these test pieces. It really looks like the surface is rippled at certain angles.

Thanks for your help.

[Tegmark]

Here is a long opening about 2mm deep that is see thru filled with poly.



At first I filled the crack up fully with a small fine brush, but afterwards much of the clear rises up out onto the surface, so it took me about 5 fills.
Then I sanded surrounding surface area with 80-120. Then finished off whole piece with 180 so opening is filled with clear flush to surface.
Then I added thin coat of clear just on the surface of crack with very fine brush. When staining whole piece the stain didn't take to the clear over opening & then I cleaned it up with alcohol on a fine pointy rag.
Later added 1st clear coat over whole piece later & built up coats.

Want to try this on some larger open knots but I think it will take ages as when clear is too thick it always has trapped air bubbles. I tried the epoxy on small openings, but it still makes fine air bubbles.



Here is why I only do very thick coats with 2pack.




Its just impossible for me to sand out pinholes without rubbing through on the edges, at very least the final coat would have to be very thick & the bulges/rises will show under the final coat.