Results 1 to 10 of 10
-
8th June 2016, 12:15 PM #1Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2015
- Location
- wa
- Age
- 61
- Posts
- 7
Help needed about water seeping thrue brickwork mortar along footing in garage
Hello all
I need advice on how to fix water seeping in via the mortar at the very bottom of the brickwork to footing only in one corner my garage
We recently purchased this house, well before my accident, but as I was removing old shelving to make way for cabinet carcass foot,
I notice what seem to be no more gaps old type selastic calking in the bottom corner and a little water not much but enough to worry me, obviously put there by previous owner when they put up chipboard box shelving, witch was falling apart and I now know why, it fell apart. The foot box of the Cabinet carcass is all treated pine but that wont stop it from rotting and since I know little about Brickwork and mortar
anyway I need advice and help please.
What would be my best approach to fix this problem before it becomes a big problem.
Should I remove this calking and Will I need to re-mortar the area at the footing where the brick meets concrete
or should I just get a Brickie to have a look and fix it, out of all the people I know none are brickies.
How long would I need to let it dry out if needed before applying sealer
What I have done so far is shoveled all the dirt and sand along the concrete footing outside wall and made a make shift soak well for now.
Would Bondall Bondcrete be an adequate sealers as I have a tub sitting in the garden shed that's never been open and its still liquefied
I use the Bondall on MDF It works very well to seal it, Oddly enough I learned that from a party hire mob that used it on tables they made out
of MDF. I am not sure if its good enough for mortar or just to apply over existing mortar it still very solid when I scrape it a bit with old screwdriver to see if it just crumbled but it dint
All Advice would be very much appreciated before mounting the cabinets in that corner I would like to stop the seepage if possible
and again It's not rising dampness there was and actual small puddle of water after all the the recent rain here in W.A.
And for any eastern states member in the floods there I hope you are all safe and well please inform me if any
Banks or other businesses taking relief donations for me to contribute to
Kind Regard
Panda
-
8th June 2016, 02:10 PM #2
Bondcrete was designed for concrete. Look it up on the web for mixing ratios and seal the outside.
If it still leaks, seal the inside.
You will probably get more info on Renovate forums
-
8th June 2016, 07:00 PM #3GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2011
- Location
- Albury
- Posts
- 279
Bondcrete is not suitable as a sealer for areas that will be wet for extended periods. Provided you can organise effective drainage so that water does not pool outside the wall at the problem area you can probably get away with one of the paint on acrylic type sealers applied to the outside of the wall, the type they use for shower recesses. There is no point applying sealers to the inside of the wall, you have to prevent the water seeping in to the wall in the first place. Ensure the wall is totally dry before painting with the sealer. If you want to build up soil next to the wall again seal a piece of plastic sheet at what will be your finished ground level and run it down the wall to where you have installed your drainage below the inside floor level.
If you're still unsure send a PM to RWBuild, he'll be able to sort it out for you, very helpful fella.
Hope this helps. Cheers, David.
-
8th June 2016, 07:45 PM #4
You need to determine where the water is coming from. Does your gutter leak? Is the gardenbed built up too high? Is there a leaking pipe?
-
8th June 2016, 08:32 PM #5
Help needed about water seeping thrue brickwork mortar along footing in garage
I am with termimonster on this one ... If possible solve the problem at its source. As far a sealant, I could also suggest a pond sealant (similar to shower recess sealer I guess).
Not sure what it's like over there ... But ironically ... Wet spots will attract termites too !
And good luck.Glenn Visca
-
9th June 2016, 08:26 AM #6Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2015
- Location
- wa
- Age
- 61
- Posts
- 7
Thank you all for the advice.
What I'll do, is take the make shift soak well out and redo it nice and proper with thick black plastic liner up the wall as mentioned.
And while I was in the garden shed looking for the paint I found some left over 2 pack pool paint with sealer added sealer for concrete pools
it dries up like hard rubber so i'm hoping, if it's good for a pool it should be o for that ???
As for the guttering, new gutters were installed last summer with the deep box type and after this winter
we are looking at re-mortar the tile roof. There is no garden bed
just a approx. 1 meter gap from the wall to the fence and I don't know why there was a sheet of hardy board at each end of the garage
but i had to dig one out to get access to the wall. And decent seize area to it's the first things I found was some extra roof tiles pavers old hardy board but
since they were berried I think I will call the asbestos mob before doing anything else, the one I dug out is painted and no cracks, the ones that are berried are broken.
And as for the dirt and sand yes it was about a foot over the base bricks.
And Termites thanks you for reminding me of those little F.....rs totally forgot about them
Anyway a few delays in the plans and still happy I found out before any big damage
so Thanks guys and I''l let you know how it went when its dried up and sealed cuz I'll stand there with the hose on it for a while just in case
Regards
Panda
-
9th June 2016, 08:55 AM #7
Good luck Panda
Glenn Visca
-
10th June 2016, 06:07 PM #8
It needs to be sealed from the outside as others have said. My take would be to excavate to about 150mm below the floor height. clean and dry the area. Apply a bituminous sealer, 3 heavy coats. Line this with a piece of corflute, real estate signs are a good source. Then backfill with 30mm gravel.
Failure to stop the water from getting to the house will guarantee a poor result.
Cheers
BevanThere ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!
Tom Waits
-
10th June 2016, 11:16 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Nov 2012
- Location
- Brisbane
- Posts
- 596
As others have said, prevention is better than cure so if you can remove the soil and water from the outside of the wall, and fit a drain so that no water pools there - then your problem is solved, no sealer necessary. If there will always be water near the outside of the wall but you can seal it then there are lots of sealers available.
I have a building - filled concrete block - built into the earth. I solved the problem with a Zinsser product, a white paint sealer. It prevents all water from coming through, so I have found a sealant that works on the inside. if you are interested, or need such a product I can look up the label details.
-
11th June 2016, 07:25 AM #10Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Sep 2015
- Location
- wa
- Age
- 61
- Posts
- 7
Well there a new plan afoot now
And I got the impression my wife hated the Idea but its suit me very well
Now for the time being until the weather settles here I will leave my make shift soak well there
but I have been dragging my dust extractor in and out of the garage every time
and with the such a small work area. well I found a nice a space for it to live on it's own
granted its more work since I cant even get the smallest of diggers in there to get all the sand out and crap
but I do reckon if it dries up a bit in my area there should be a small garden shed type for the dusty
In the actual garden there are parts of an old cool room I pick up at our big roadside rubbish day
and there's More than panels to make a shed insulated to it should dampen the noise my neighbor love so much
And the other extra bit of work will be to convert dusty from a 5 inch to a six inch inlet
and the best thing about all of it I don't even need to smash a hole in the bricks, the wall itself goes up ten feet after that
A FEW PANEL OF CEMENT SHEETS TYPE STUFF AN a sheet of laser-light now guess where the hole will be for the PVC
my only problem was the access for digging and leveling the space out was those bloody date palms that drop the seed in pool
and get those nice black spots in the pool and this is where my old girl had a nag well I think she was yelling out something
but with all the noise I was making I could only see her lips move and her eyes stabbing me before she went to work,
I had to cut those F...g date palms out of my way, to get the perfect wheelchair access to the area.
I cut the bastards down today ALL 4 OF THEM SO WHILE SHE WAS GIVING A NAG ABOUT THE TREES
i WAS SMILING MY OFF ALL THE WAY TO THE TIP
.
AND i WILL STILL HAVE SPACE THERE FOR DON'T KNOW JUST YET BUT I am SURE IT WILL ONLY TAKE ME A DA OR SO TO GET
OLD GREY MATTER Going
SO TO ALL thank FOR THE ADVICE
Best Regards
Panda
Similar Threads
-
can you use render mix instead of mortar mix for brickwork?
By Reno RSS Feed in forum BRICKWORKReplies: 0Last Post: 16th July 2009, 10:10 AM -
Cleaning mortar stains from brickwork
By Reno RSS Feed in forum BRICKWORKReplies: 0Last Post: 5th April 2009, 03:00 AM -
Cleaning mortar stains from brickwork
By ubeaut in forum BRICKWORKReplies: 0Last Post: 26th January 2009, 10:00 PM -
Cleaning lime mortar from brickwork
By ubeaut in forum BRICKWORK, CONCRETING, PAVING, RENDERING, etcReplies: 0Last Post: 16th November 2008, 07:18 AM -
brickwork advice needed
By scubabob in forum BRICKWORKReplies: 5Last Post: 4th July 2007, 06:15 PM
Bookmarks