Help for challenging small sliding lid box finish

[Studiovape]

Hi folks, I've been lurking here for a while and finally decided to take the plunge and join up to try and get some specific help on this issue.
I have been making electronic cigarettes for about three years now and pretty much exclusively from stabilised burl for the last 18 months or so.

Here are some examples of my work:

[IMG]IMG_4265SV Mod copy by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_4275SV Mod copy by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]

[IMG]IMG_4288SV Mod copy by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]


[IMG]IMG_4454 copy by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]
[IMG]IMG_4456 copy by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]





After buying a mini mill, bandsaw, etc, making a router table and UV drying cabinet I am pretty much rolling along with small limited runs.
My main issue though is my finishing schedule/system.

Most of the info available on the net to do with wood finishing is either large items like furniture or turned items, and I feel a little lost when trying to find what will consistently work for me.
I have scoured the luthier and gunstock making forums along with here and other woodwork resources.
I have a unique set of challenges with what I make when it comes to a finish.

It needs to be applied in a way that is controllable to avoid build up in the dovetail slots and around the door and other insert panels.
It needs to be compatible with the "Cactus Juice" that is used to stabilize the blanks I use.
It needs to be compatible with some kind of void/crack filling pore filling system.
It needs to be very waterproof, sweat proof and alcohol resistant, as it can have "e liquid" spilled on and in it, and is held in the hand potentially all day.
It needs to be durable, again as it is to be handled all day.
It needs to pop the grain as much as possible.
It needs to involve next to no sanding as sanding risks damaging the intricate recesses and dovetails

Now the images posted are finished with tru oil, but I am yet to really be happy with the finish durability.
I have tried spraying Cabots CPF ans FW Floorseal in cans made up at the local paint shop. I have tried Quick 15, I have tried making up a wipe on poly from the Cabbots floorseal and mineral turps (70%Cabbots 30% turps 2% terebine), I couldn't seem to get anything to work for me, these two below I finished with Aussie Oil after trying all the above finishes and stripping back to wood each time, however I am fearful that even after the 21 days of crosslinking the small amount alcohol in the flavoring of the ejuice will at some point be spilled on the finish and ruin it.

[IMG]IMG_5184-200316 by Thomas Studios, on Flickr[/IMG]

I have researched finishes till I'm dizzy so please help if you can.
Admittedly "some" of the weather we were having during the epic fail of some of the mentioned finishes was rainy and humid, hence the build of the UV drying cabinet (with thermostat and heater and exhaust fan).
Cheers
SV

[Studiovape]

Wow sixty odd views and not a single comment!

[LGS]

Hi and welcome to the forums,

You ask a lot from your finish! But I see your issue.

You might like to give OSMO oil a go. Some furniture makers swear by it. (http://www.osmoaustralia.com.au/)

It might also be worth a call to Organoil about the issue.

(www.facebook.com/Organoil-Timber-Finishes-130137020383457/)

Regards,

Rob

[Studiovape]

Thanks Rob for the welcome anD for the recommendation. Been doing some reading on Osmo Oil and seems like an impressive product. Will do more research tomorrow, but looks promising. Thanks again.
SV

[Enfield Guy]

Vote two for OSMO. I see you are in Qld, Brisbane perhaps? If you are in Brisbane you should PM me. You might be able to test OSMO without financial outlay.

Cheers

[Studiovape]

Vote two for OSMO. I see you are in Qld, Brisbane perhaps? If you are in Brisbane you should PM me. You might be able to test OSMO without financial outlay.

Cheers

Thanks Tom,
I'm in Gympie I'm afraid otherwise that would have been great.
Can you suggest a supplier that will post to me here.
Also I hear there are four levels of sheen from matt to gloss, but I only seem to find matt and Semi-matt/Satin listed in Australia.
There seem to be a lot of options from decking to floor to benchtop versions I'm not sure how these compare for my particular aplication and, I also see that the price is high for the larger cans but the "Top oil" is available in 500mls (up to Satin) here : Top Oil for Benchtops - Natural Timber Oils Victoria
Which version sheen level have you used?

[Studiovape]

Another couple of questions about the Osmo oil, and forgive my ignorance here, but am I going to have and issue with a highly sanded surface. I tend to sand mt boxes to at least 2500 grit, will this create an adhesion issue, and is so what is the highest grit sanding I should go with. Being as the stabilised blanks ( they are still porous and absorbent )I use are all highly figured burl sanding scratches cannot be hidden in with the grain.

This from their application sheet:
"
Sand the timber’s surface, finishing with
80 grit for hardwoods such as Jarrah and
Eucalypt, and 100 - 120 grit for woods such
as Oak,
Cypress Pine etc. (For old dry
softwoods such as cedar and pine
, finish with 150 grit paper).
Note:
Ensure all sanding marks are removed
from the timber; otherwise they
will be accentuated and visible through the fini
sh. Remember – the final result and appearance
depends
on the quality of the sanding! Remove any sanding dust."


Also I have been considering using some Ubeaut water dyes to enhance the figure before finishing. Applying a weak wash and sanding back so the more absorbent fibers take on the darker colour and the denser areas get sanded clear, would this technique be suitable in combination with the Osmo oil?

[Studiovape]

I found the Gloss version here :OSMO PolyX Oil Original Range – robcousens Indoor | Outdoor | Furniture
Any suggestions on which version might be best for me would be very much appreciated

[Enfield Guy]

Give them a ring. They will usually send a sample for nil or minimal cost. In your case a 5ml sample may well do more items than you think. The idea is to apply thinly, very,very important. As far as sanding is concerned, I rarely go beyond 180, maybe 240, but i mainly do larger pieces of furniture. I have not had adhesion issues yet following this process. I use satin primarily because I can't stand gloss finishes, they tend to reflect the surroundings rather than the wood grain, which in my view is what you want to see. If it was me in your shoes, I would ring Ray, discuss your needs and desires, get samples and play. Ray is very knowledgable and very helpful. In my view, a small can would last you a very long time. Such being the case, I would advise you to invert the can after use to create a better seal under the lid and store the can in its normal position in a fridge on a warmer setting than normal. I find I get better life out of the product that way, i.e.:it doesn't go off in the can. Decanting into smaller containers works well also.

Cheers
Bevan

[Studiovape]

Thanks Bevan,
Just watched this review : Brand New Product - Osmo PolyX Gloss - video
I was going to pull the trigger on a 375ml can of the Gloss from here:OSMO PolyX Oil Original Range – robcousens Indoor | Outdoor | Furniture
I think it's still a satiny finish just slightly higher sheen from the video, which on smaller items might be ideal.
I have left a message with "naturaltimberoils" to call me back is that where the "Ray" you speak of resides?

[Enfield Guy]

Yep. He's the distributor. Like I said, see if you can get a sample first, even if you have to pay. In your case it may well prove to be more economic given the size of the product you make and how much you would use per unit.

[Enfield Guy]

Yeah the gloss is nice, I suppose. I'm still a satin man though, even on smaller items. However, I do use a gloss finish for a couple of my production items where the market demands it, the market is stupid some times.

[Studiovape]

Yep. He's the distributor. Like I said, see if you can get a sample first, even if you have to pay. In your case it may well prove to be more economic given the size of the product you make and how much you would use per unit.

I got a call back, Ray was away today , but the very nice lady is sending me some sample free of charge, so despite my impatient nature (you can tell that really helps with my finishing ) I will wait for them to arrive and do some testing before I add another large tin of unsuitable finishing product to my growing collection.
Thanks for the rewarding advice.
I just received my new book form the Uk (via ebay) today "Bob Flexner , Understating wood finishing", so finally I have some accurate (or at least that is my understanding) research material for my finish schooling.
One question that I know has been discussed before (but honestly all the discussion ended with the answer being as clear as mud to me, but USA Bob mentions Turpentine and then Mineral Spirits as separate products, can anyone clarify for me what Australian translations are?

[Enfield Guy]

My understanding is Turpentine is the same as here. Mineral spirits are known as white spirit here. Sometimes marketed as dry cleaning fluid. You should be able to buy either at the big green or blue sheds. My understanding is they are both similar in properties.

[Enfield Guy]

Don't forget to report back with how it goes for you. I for one would be interested.

Cheers
Bevan