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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Perth
    Age
    45
    Posts
    1

    Default Finish recommendations for plywood cabinet interior

    Hi,

    I'm working on a set of base cabinets for our lounge room, constructed using a quality AC plywood. I'll be edging with a solid wood and add doors or drawers to fully enclose each cabinet.

    The cabinets themselves will be used for general storage: books, children's toys, multimedia components, laptop, etc.

    I'm not a big fan of painted wood but am otherwise considering my options for a suitable finish for the cabinet interiors.

    My father-in-law smeared what I assume is a polyurethane over a basic kitchen table of my wife's and, after many years of regular use, the film shows many white scratches, has de-laminated/hazed in a few spots, and hasn't offered much in terms of protection from dents to the underlying wood. To say the least I'm not a fan.

    It does seem like I need something reasonably hard-wearing for this application. I'm also concerned about the finish sticking to itself (i.e. doors) if I opt to finish the edging and doors (which I'll likely oil instead). I'll likely apply the finish before the cabinet is closed up--and am considering applying before assembly--but I'm also after something that isn't going to stink and fume for weeks following application.

    I don't own a spray gun or HVLP system and don't really want one... happy and generally proficient with a brush or rag.

    I'm also not terribly concerned about any colour shift but I'd prefer the finish itself not yellow over time.

    One suggestion I found indicated sanding sealer (shellac) with lacquer or varnish. I've only previously sprayed lacquer from a can (with good results) but I'd prefer not to go the can route.

    How many coats? Sanding to what grit in between?

    Also, water or oil-based for ply? I'd like to give the good faces a light sanding (180+) before applying any finish and I know water-based will raise the grain slightly, risking a sand-through. I've also read not to use oil-based on ply but I'm not sure if that's out-dated advice.

    Many thanks in advance,
    Michael

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Ipswich Queensland
    Age
    70
    Posts
    56

    Default

    Shellac if you don't mind a bit of colour. Water based poly seals ok, is quick and doesn't smell as much.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Langwarrin, Victoria, Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    31

    Default

    If you want to shellac, I would recommend ubeaut White shellac. It doesn't bring the honey colour that regular shellac does. Neil also has a hardened white shellac too, that he told me was a more hard wearing finish.

    When I did some cabinets, I went the French polishing route, with a final coat of EEE Ultrashine. The result was fantastic. However, it does take time and patience and may not be suited to your needs/wants.

    I also used watered down timbermate as a grain filler.

    Whatever you do, prep is they key.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    Glenn Visca

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    613

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by michhes View Post
    Hi,


    Also, water or oil-based for ply? I'd like to give the good faces a light sanding (180+) before applying any finish and I know water-based will raise the grain slightly, risking a sand-through. I've also read not to use oil-based on ply but I'm not sure if that's out-dated advice.

    Many thanks in advance,
    Michael
    When using water based dye or finishes, if you want to avoid sand throughs, wipe down the surface liberally with water first, this will raise the grain which you can then fine sand. Give the surface say, 24 hours to dry properly before you denib the surface. When you the do your dye and or finish the raising has been taken care of.

    Just a thought to consider.
    Regards,
    Bob

    Absence of evidence is not evidence of absence.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Townsville, Nth Qld
    Posts
    102

    Default

    I usually cover plywood cabinets and the bases of cabinet drawers with Cabot's Danish Oil, brushed on.

    I found that with water based finishes, the cracks in the ply are shown up well and truly, even though you cannot see them after sanding. You need a really good grain filler.

    The oil based finishes don't seem to have this problem
    regards,

    Dengy

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Somerset Region, Qld, AU.
    Age
    66
    Posts
    77

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by michhes View Post
    Hi,

    {Quote}......My father-in-law smeared what I assume is a polyurethane over a basic kitchen table of my wife's and, after many years of regular use, the film shows many white scratches, has de-laminated/hazed in a few spots, and hasn't offered much in terms of protection from dents to the underlying wood. To say the least I'm not a fan.........{End Quote}

    Michael
    Michael,

    I don't think that you'll find any finish that you'll be able to apply in a home environment, that will provide "protection from dents to the underlying wood". The only finish I can think of that might provide some protection against dents would be to coat the item with epoxy resin - not something that would be recommended on an item as large are you're referring to, and not a finishing solution that will offer the look you're looking for.

    RoyG
    Manufacturer of the Finest Quality Off-Cuts.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    19

    Default 100 Jobs To Do

    You could use varnishes or shellacs as they are highly durable.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    206

    Default

    When using oil based products with ply it is important to do a test first to see the interaction, while plys in Australia are of reasonable thickness and we have not seen any concerns, overseas ply's can be very thin and some oils are able to interact with glues where delaminating occurs. Livos Australia is proud to have been tested and approved by a number of ply manufacturers to be recommended for use with ply so always check with the product supplier for their advice. When using any product in cupboards the ability to properly dry or cure can be restricted due to the limited air contact, where possible doors should be left ajar or the inside left open to allow for this process to occur sufficiently before use. The benefit with oils is that one can repair or rejuvenate the surface. Naturally the repair part will be limited by the thickness of the ply layer. Also, due to the oils not being as “glossy” as some varnishes, scratches are less easily seen. Ply being a soft substrate, you would need to consider long term use; for example, once a varnished coating is scratched, the usual way of repair it will be to sand back. With ply, this is restricted. One can also use the Kunos white to keep it from yellowing.
    Livos Australia

    <O</O

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    SE Melb
    Age
    65
    Posts
    218

    Default

    How about using the 3-2-1 finish as illustrated here
    http://www.startwoodworking.com/post...rniture-finish
    Add an additional coat of furniture wax when done.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    back in Alberta for a while
    Age
    69
    Posts
    1,133

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by michhes View Post
    Hi,

    I'm working on a set of base cabinets for our lounge room, constructed using a quality AC plywood. I'll be edging with a solid wood and add doors or drawers to fully enclose each cabinet.

    The cabinets themselves will be used for general storage: books, children's toys, multimedia components, laptop, etc.

    I'm not a big fan of painted wood but am otherwise considering my options for a suitable finish for the cabinet interiors.
    IMO it's very hard to go past regular shellac for cabinet interiors. After all you're mostly only looking to coat the ply so that dust doesn't stick in the grain. I'd go for two, three of four coats -- whatever you can apply in ONE day -- brushed on. Once the metho has evaporated there should be no lingering odour.

    There's no need to muck about with a hard wearing or abrasion resistant finish as the inside of a cabinet doesn't get the knocks and scratches a table does.
    regards from Alberta, Canada

    ian

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