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7th August 2015, 11:15 PM #1Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Sydney AU
- Posts
- 5
Feast Watson Prooftint Pine Sealer application - help & experience needed, Thanks
Hi All and Thanks In Advance for your time,
Just wondering when to apply F & W stain.
The Sealer is still a tiny bit sticky, only slightly pulling on a sock on my foot in a few spots when I walk on it and there are shiny and matt areas everywhere.
Do I need another coat of sealer to make the whole floor shiny or will the staining be ok as is?
Any help appreciated as this is a first time and I'd hate to ruin it...
pic isn't very good but it gives a rough idea of the random matt/shiny areas.
I 've sanded a Cypress Pine floor in Sydney and used a short nap roller to apply one liberal coat on Monday 03.08.2015 (today is Friday 07.08.2015).
I rang Feast & Watson and they said it will take several days to dry (cold weather), so I know I have to wait.Last edited by J-a-y; 7th August 2015 at 11:23 PM. Reason: add pic
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9th August 2015, 11:30 AM #2Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Sydney AU
- Posts
- 5
Oh well, was worth a try
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9th August 2015, 09:19 PM #3Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Sydney AU
- Posts
- 5
Photo0173.jpgPhoto0174.jpg
40 sq m
2L Feast & Watson Prooftint Pine Conditioner rolled on with 6mm nap roller - took a week to dry (turpentine based).
1500ml Feast & Watson Prooftint Walnut
500ml Feast & Watson Prooftint Oak
500ml Feast & Watson Reducer
500ml Methylated Spirits
rag on, rag off method.
Only used about 1 litre of tint.
F&W seems to go a long way.
Finish with 3 coats of Durafloor PU - light sand 2nd coat.
Cheers
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11th August 2015, 11:16 PM #4Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Sydney AU
- Posts
- 5
1st coat is easy, 2nd was really difficult to see, used a 3W LED head torch. Missed 4 or 5 small areas. Went back over them the next day.
Wait to fully cure then sand smooth for 3rd coat.
floor coat 2 002s.jpgfloor coat 2 010s.jpg
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31st August 2015, 12:34 AM #5Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Sydney AU
- Posts
- 5
Didn't use any solvent in the second coat and it went on too thick and didn't level out/flow properly, plus there was a lot of dust and crap in it.
Sanded with 120 grit using a Bosch GEX 150 turbo orbital sander and a vac.
Used very light pressure on the sander and let the sandpaper do the work - hand sanded the corners.
Vac'd up the dust, used a mop to get most of the rest of the dust, then went over by hand with a moist cloth followed by a dry cloth to get anything left.
Vac'd the rest of the house.
Closed all doors and windows, sealed up anywhere air might enter (skirting boards had been removed) with masking tape.
I think a vac stirs up the dust so I left it for a few days so the dust could settle.
Micro fibre dry mopped the floor twice.
Wrapped a moistened cloth around the micro fibre dry mop and tacked the floor.
Durafloor PU and 10% Xylene.
100mm brush for the edges and 6mm nap mohair roller.
Had left an electric heater on low (800W) overnight to keep the chill out of the floorboards and put down the PU about midday.
Photo0190s.jpgPhoto0191s.jpg
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16th September 2015, 06:23 PM #6Novice
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Location
- Sydney AU
- Posts
- 5
Left two buckets of water in the house to cure the polyurethane (moisture cure), worked great.
Very little dust - hardly any.
Pics don't do justice to the colour, it pops. And the sharp lines of the grain stand right out. And the knots are like little works of art.
pol floor 2 004 s.jpgpol floor 2 012 s.jpg
I could screen the floor and do another coat but it looks ok the way it is. I'll leave that for another day when it is scratched and old.
Would I do it again? Yes. But, I would buy top quality knee pads.
and never ever use one of those edge sanders again, also, I wouldn't hire a sander from Bunnings, they're too bashed around - I hired from Camden Hire, Narellan. The Bosch 150 Turbo 6" orbital sander made sanding the edges so much easier.
I love looking at it, lol.
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