Beeswax and raw linseed oil

[AdamAnt]

Since you asked if there was a method I looked up my trusty bible. Linseed oil method(s) summarised. Seal the surface with 2 coats of shellac, sanding between and allowing to dry, then continue with more coats of linseed oil, each coat rubbed in or sanded in, excess wiped off and allowed 24 hours to dry before next coat for 5 coats - full cure will take a week after final coat. This will get you a "traditional" hard oil finish. If sanding in, sand with the grain and wipe off across the grain first to fill with the sludge then wipe off along the grain. I think the shellac reduces the number of coats required to produce the same result. Shellac can still be applied even though you have put a coat of oil on already. Wax can be applied as well if you still want to. Another consideration if you are putting in a splash back is that silicone caulk will not stick properly to wax or uncured oil and maybe not even cured oil ( others may have more experience here) but I believe it will stick to shellac so it may be worth some trial with test pieces to get your method down if you will need to use silicone

[BobL]

I'm not convinced that Mineral turps is any safer than Gum.
Both are classified as an S5 poison (Caution) and Mineral turps even has a lower air borne TWA than gum turps.
If Gum was more dangerous it would be on the S6

It's most enlightening to see what's on the S5 list
For example the entry for Hydrocarbons is

HYDROCARBONS, LIQUID, including kerosene, diesel (distillate), mineral turpentine, white petroleum spirit, toluene, xylene and light mineral and paraffin oils (but excluding their derivatives), except:
(a) toluene and xylene when included in Schedule 6;

(b) benzene and liquid aromatic hydrocarbons when included in Schedule 7;

(c) food grade and pharmaceutical grade white mineral oils;

(d) in solid or semi-solid preparations;

(e) in preparations containing 25 per cent or less of designated solvents;

(f) in preparations packed in pressurised spray packs;

(g) in adhesives packed in containers each containing 50 grams or less of adhesive;

(h) in writing correction fluids and thinners for writing correction fluids packed in containers having a capacity of 20 mL or less; or

(i) in other preparations when packed in containers with a capacity of 2 mL or less.

[Gestalt]

Since you asked if there was a method I looked up my trusty bible. Linseed oil method(s) summarised. Seal the surface with 2 coats of shellac, sanding between and allowing to dry, then continue with more coats of linseed oil, each coat rubbed in or sanded in, excess wiped off and allowed 24 hours to dry before next coat for 5 coats - full cure will take a week after final coat. This will get you a "traditional" hard oil finish. If sanding in, sand with the grain and wipe off across the grain first to fill with the sludge then wipe off along the grain. I think the shellac reduces the number of coats required to produce the same result. Shellac can still be applied even though you have put a coat of oil on already. Wax can be applied as well if you still want to. Another consideration if you are putting in a splash back is that silicone caulk will not stick properly to wax or uncured oil and maybe not even cured oil ( others may have more experience here) but I believe it will stick to shellac so it may be worth some trial with test pieces to get your method down if you will need to use silicone

Thanks AdamAnt, That's great information. Seems I have quite a few options. Is that raw linseed oil that you are referring to? It's just that I'd rather use the raw stuff because I've got 20 litres lying around. That's also a good point about the splash back. I didn't even think of that. I did plan on using a glass splash back with a custom picture of Puffing Billy. I guess I could just router a shallow housing along the length.
Thanks again for the info.

[AdamAnt]

Yeah raw linseed oil or "boiled" - raw just takes longer to dry and may be more susceptible to mould, though I doubt it's anything to worry about, you won't be wanting to leave your lovely wooden bench top wet for obvious reasons. Oh, the method did say to finish sanding before starting, but I assumed you had done that. And btw, to moderators, pls advise if I should give credit to original author. Not sure if there's a protocol about that.

[AdamAnt]

Also, you may be able to get a different caulk that is waterproof like silicone but compatible with linseed oil. Phone call to Selleys or Sika might be worth a try. Good luck, I'd love to see your bench and puffin billy splash when it's done, pls post pics!

[ian]

I'm not convinced that Mineral turps is any safer than Gum.
Both are classified as an S5 poison (Caution) and Mineral turps even has a lower air borne TWA than gum turps.
If Gum was more dangerous it would be on the S6

I wouldn't be too sure about that

Back when Dad was on the NSW Poisons Committee there was an expectation that people handling chemicals only worked in industry and would use proper handling methods -- The schedule lists were mostly about restricting access to substances that you could use to kill your neighbour, what was deemed illegal, and what was really toxic.

I'm sure that most of us would try and only work with solvents in a well ventilated environment -- or as well ventilated as a home garage can be -- but we wouldn't be too worried about skin exposure to Metho or Mineral Turps.

What I wanted to highlight was that Gum Turpentine is not a different "brand" of Turps. It's a different substance that, unlike the "normal" organic solvents we regularly use -- Metho, Kero*, Mineral Turps, paint thinners -- is absorbed through the skin.



* let's not get all technical and debate whether kero is or isn't an organic solvent.

[BobL]

I . . . . What I wanted to highlight was that Gum Turpentine is not a different "brand" of Turps. It's a different substance that, unlike the "normal" organic solvents we regularly use -- Metho, Kero*, Mineral Turps, paint thinners -- is absorbed through the skin. .

It sounds like you might have to have a read of the MSDS for Mineral turps.

One thing that many folks don't realise is that mineral turps is (just like Gum turps) it's not just one compound but a range of different compounds in varying amounts that depend on the manufacturer, but they don't both to tell the consumer exactly what's in it even on their MSDS, they cover there arses with a range.

The TWA for Mineral turps is given as one number (480 mg/m3)) but the individual components have different TWAs some higher and some lower than 480.

Because of these variable components the MSDS for Mineral, and Gum, turps recommends immediate washing of any hair and skin that comes into contact with turps.
The kidney problems associated with gum turps are from direct ingestion, not akin absorption.
Both can cause severe nervous system disorders including brain diseases found in some artists and house painters.

[Gestalt]

Yeah raw linseed oil or "boiled" - raw just takes longer to dry and may be more susceptible to mould, though I doubt it's anything to worry about, you won't be wanting to leave your lovely wooden bench top wet for obvious reasons. Oh, the method did say to finish sanding before starting, but I assumed you had done that. And btw, to moderators, pls advise if I should give credit to original author. Not sure if there's a protocol about that.

Thanks again AdamAnt, Yes I took it down to 400 grit and I'm pretty happy with the first coat. I'll spend some more time on it at the weekend.

[Gestalt]

Also, you may be able to get a different caulk that is waterproof like silicone but compatible with linseed oil. Phone call to Selleys or Sika might be worth a try. Good luck, I'd love to see your bench and puffin billy splash when it's done, pls post pics!

I'm thinking that if I router a channel housing for the glass it may not need any sealant. Besides, I've never been real good at getting a nice fine uniform bead of silicone!!!!
I'll get a couple of pics happening at the weekend.

[Bob38S]

Router a channel, possible moisture, dirt, bacteria trap.

I'm not sure but this is what immediately came to mind.

[AdamAnt]

I guess if the bench is fixed at the back and free to expand and contract at the front that could work. You may still want to seal the front side of the joint between wood and glass to stop water being trapped. Also perhaps allow a gap at the top of the glass for the wood's seasonal movement and a flexible adhesive for the glass (prob silicone), though at this time of year with your bench currently stored outside and having had wet weather I guess it'll prob shrink after being installed.

[AdamAnt]

I hear you with silicone being hard to get right, but when you do it's oh so satisfying. Bunnings plumbers mate are the best tool for jointing silicone IMO. They're cheap and excellent. Along with a spray bottle containing soapy water and some practice or maybe lots ) Your situation with two new flat straight surfaces and a nice controllable gap is about as good as it gets for silicone - as long as you know it will stick to your bench. If you want I can go into more detail, just let me know.

[Gestalt]

Router a channel, possible moisture, dirt, bacteria trap.

I'm not sure but this is what immediately came to mind.

I was thinking of either a good fitting channel maybe 6mm deep or either a wider one that could have a tight fitting timber bead inserted at the back to enable the glass to mate up to the front of the channel. Probably the latter would be the preferred method. This bench top is not in the wet area of the kitchen, so I would imagine that this method would be fine, but hey, I'm no expert by any means. I'm always open to suggestions.

[Gestalt]

I guess if the bench is fixed at the back and free to expand and contract at the front that could work. You may still want to seal the front side of the joint between wood and glass to stop water being trapped. Also perhaps allow a gap at the top of the glass for the wood's seasonal movement and a flexible adhesive for the glass (prob silicone), though at this time of year with your bench currently stored outside and having had wet weather I guess it'll prob shrink after being installed.

Thanks AdamAnt, Yes I guess before inserting the glass I could run a bead of sealant in the channel and completely wipe off all excess once the glass is mated to the front of the channel. This would make for a pretty clean looking joint. Yes I can allow plenty of movement room at the top. There will be a wall unit above the bench top and the top of the glass can be held vertical by quad attached to the underside. I could probably allow a good 12mm clearance. I'll have to check the recommendations of the glass company.

[Gestalt]

I hear you with silicone being hard to get right, but when you do it's oh so satisfying. Bunnings plumbers mate are the best tool for jointing silicone IMO. They're cheap and excellent. Along with a spray bottle containing soapy water and some practice or maybe lots ) Your situation with two new flat straight surfaces and a nice controllable gap is about as good as it gets for silicone - as long as you know it will stick to your bench. If you want I can go into more detail, just let me know.

Thanks again for the advice. I've never heard of plumbers mate, but I'll be sure to check it out. I might even start to enjoy applying silicone if that's the case!!! Thanks for the offer of more details. I'll let you know when the time gets closer for the sealant.