Results 1 to 13 of 13
Thread: Three Tables - help required
-
22nd February 2015, 02:16 PM #1
Three Tables - help required
I have been asked if I could refinish three table tops for a client.
The first two are a dining table and a coffee table. They were purchased in Singapore or Vietnam. Both have suffered from spills. The client would like a matte finish.
DiningTable.jpg CoffeeTable.jpg
The third table is an out door table (and seats) that has water marks on it.
The table has had a cover on it that may have let moisture through and has a metal/aluminum chrome frame. We think the timber is teak.
OutdoorTable.jpg
As I do not have the means to move them the table will need to worked on where they are.
What is the best way to remove the stains?
What sort of finish do you suggest?
Thank you for your help.
-
22nd February 2015, 08:24 PM #2GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2003
- Location
- Central Coast, NSW
- Posts
- 614
For the stains, try Deck Cleaner. The active ingredient is oxalic acid.
Certainly looks like teak. If it smells like nutmeg when you cut or sand it then its teak.
Cheers
ArronApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
-
22nd February 2015, 09:24 PM #3
Some of those stains look like they might sand out Kevin, maybe starting at 120.
For a matte finish, I think a lacquer might look crummy. As a suggestion, you could sand up to only about 220, which will still be matte but would feel nice with your Festool sander's finish, and then finish it with a few coats of Rustins Danish Oil (from Carrol's). I've never done the next step, but they say that a rub with steel wool will take off any gloss. That being the case you might even want to sand up to 320/500.
Note that Rustin's DO can't be hard burnished because it is too thick and starts to set much too quickly for sanding in (in my experience, anyway). All I got was a PITA thick slurry that left gross skidmarks that had to be rubbed off, and start again. Organoil DO is fine for hard burnishing (along with a number of others no doubt) but I find that Rustin's gives a superior finish just wiped on and rubbed off just a few minutes later.
Just my 2c worth.
-
22nd February 2015, 09:27 PM #4
-
23rd February 2015, 12:08 AM #5
Try Napisan which is basically what most of the deck cleaners are.
I know of at least one deck oil manufacturer who re-bottle Napisan to sell as their deck cleaner.
KEEP A LID ON THE GARBAGE... Report spam, scams, and inappropriate posts, PMs and Blogs.
Use the Report icon at the bottom of all Posts, PM's and Blog entries.
-
23rd February 2015, 05:34 AM #6
Hi,
I'd just like to say that Danish Oil, no matter what version you use, isn't necessarily going to give you the best finish for the timber you are using. I have found Wattyl Scandinavian Oil hard burnished to give superior grain resolution, when compared to Feast and Watson Danish Oil applied direct to Highly figured Red Gum.
Certain Danish Oils contain agents which thicken the oil to make it an easy oil to apply and add protection.
I don't see any advantage to sanding to 220 or 300 then applying the oil and expecting a great finish. Sure you'll get colour, but not necessarily great grain differentiation. 400 is whrere I would start thinking about what oil to use.
In the end it's up to you, but you might consider whether you can get a more satisfactory finish using products like Organoil HBO, Wattyl Scandinavian Oil, Liberon (or Sceney's) Tung Oil mixed 1:3 with Citrus Terpene or White Spirit or even BLO mixed with White Spirit.
Remember, Sol..."Oils ain't Oils"
Regards,
Rob
-
23rd February 2015, 03:51 PM #7GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2003
- Location
- Central Coast, NSW
- Posts
- 614
As a bleach, no, I've never tried to use it as a bleach.
I use Cabots Deck Clean a lot to remove stains from timber. Mostly to remove mildew stains from veneered panels after they have spent a night in my press in damp weather. It works wonderfully well but in this case the objective is to restore the timber back to its natural colour, not to make it lighter.
Sorry
ArronApologies for unnoticed autocomplete errors.
-
23rd February 2015, 04:20 PM #8
There could be a couple of problems using Deck Clean or Napisan.
Two tables are indoors on carpet so using any liquid could cause problems. The third table is outdoors but has a metal "chrome" frame. Using deck clean here could damage the metal finish so I would consider it too risky to use unless carefully controlled.
Sanding (Unfortunately I do not have a Festool sander) and scrapping might be my only options.
-
23rd February 2015, 05:25 PM #9
-
24th February 2015, 12:17 AM #10
-
13th March 2015, 08:37 PM #11
Outdoor Setting
This is what I ended up doing with the outdoor setting.
Melbourne had a night of wild weather and the cover was blown off the table and benches allowing them to be cleaned by heavy rain.
I lightly sanded them before applying two coats of clear deck oil.
-
20th March 2015, 09:41 PM #12
-
21st March 2015, 12:33 PM #13
Bookmarks