Finishing inquiry

[Gabriel]

Hey folks,

I have browsed through the finishing threads, and can't really find something that will help me decide.
I usually make smaller items such as bowls, pens, small boxes (haven't tackled too many of them) and have made a coffee table. I have a bunch of different oils waxes and finishes and have been pretty happy with most of the results. The coffee table was hard burnished and the finish is quite good, however I don't think its the right one for the next job I'm tackling.

I am building an entertainment unit (few wip shots and finished product will follow in the woodworking/large items section once completed). It is made from messmate (I assume vic ash) and blackheart sassafrass.

As I haven't really made many large useable furniture items, and I would love to avoid making the wrong choice as it would mean a heck of a lot of sanding to rectify, I thought I would put it to the forum to help me out.

I have some clear resin (purchased from Brendan Stemp) which I will be filling a few large voids/knot holes with, and then it comes to the finish....

I haven't used any WOP to date, other than some test pieces with gum vein and knots through it. The finish is quite nice, however I am a little worried that it will take the 'natural feel' of the timber away.

I could use hard burnishing oil again, however I find that to be a little dull (maybe my technique needs looking at rather than the product). Danish oil would be another option but I'm unsure how that goes on such a large project.

I don't have access to any spray gear, but if it is the best option I should be looking at then I could always get more toys to accomodate


Any ideas/techniques people could recommend would be gratefully received.....

Thanks a bunch

Gab

[Christos]

Originally I have been using wipe on poly for the pens that I was making. Just a little dab and apply to the pen.

If I just use that for the pens then it might take 100 years before I finish the container. But I suspect that the product would have already become solid.

In order to get some extra use out of it(other than spilling it on the floor ), I have used it on a coffee table, some stools and a hall table. This is the gloss version of the product and I found that three light coats is just about right. Not very shinny and you do feel the texture of the wood.

[orraloon]

I would go with the danish oil if you want to keep the natural feel of the wood. As you are using a quite hard wood then durability will be ok too. I have used danish oil on mediun sized projects and it is perhaps quicker than brush on products.
Follow the instructions on the can. If you want to apply a wax polish afterwards then wait about 10 days after the last coat to let things cure.
Regards
John

[LGS]

"I could use hard burnishing oil again, however I find that to be a little dull (maybe my technique needs looking at rather than the product). Danish oil would be another option but I'm unsure how that goes on such a large project."

I'm afraid I don't understand how you could find Hard Burnished oil to be dull. I would be interested to see your method for doing this. You should get a finish like those in the pics attached.

As for Danish Oil....which one? Finish with Danish Oil varies depending on which manufacturer you use. If you want to use an oil other than Tung or Hard Burnishing oil, then I suggest Wattyl Scandinavian (Natural Teak) Oil. I have found that I get better grain resolution when comparing this oil to several Danish Oils. If you insist on Danish Oil, then use either Liberon or Organoil.

You can see a review of Hard Burnishing method here. You'll need to read the whole thread.

Regards,

Rob