Finishing process - OK or flawed?

[Lyle]

I picked up a bargain at a garage sale. It looks like an old school woodwork project. It is missing the seat which appears to have been a hinged lid, possibly with a cushion on top? It has some faults, but the Red Cedar is quite good.
SWMBO wanted it cleaned up.


I have stripped it back to bare wood. My finishing process will be:
Sand back with 240.
Coat of sanding sealer.
Re-sand to 240.
Coat of shellac for filling.
Sand back to 240.
Coat of clear.
Sand back with 240.
Another coat of clear.

Would this process be OK?

[Christos]

When I apply a finish from bare wood I tend to sand to 320.

If I were to use sanding sealer I would use Ubeaut Sanding Sealer which is Shellac based but very diluted. Sand this down with 320grit then apply the finish and sand this down with a higher grit maybe 600 or 800. I am not wanting to sand too long or hard just want to knock off any raised grain if any. Then continue with at least one more coat of finish.

I might also be incline to use Shellac as my sanding sealer but again diluted and knowing it would not be as diluted as the Sanding sealer. Then continue as mention before....

One thing to remember Ubeaut Sanding Sealer is not a grain filler but I tend to like the open grain on some pieces.

[wheelinround]

Hi Lyle I converted the PDF to jpg easier for all to see.

Looks like a Piano stool a new lid and cushion will improve it heaps .............bit hard to sit in the box

As for sanding if your going back to bare timber start with 120 to get rid of all traces of what has been used first a quick sand with 240 a hit of sanding sealer sand with 320 or 400 and apply your finish 2 coats and then a light rub with 0000 steel wool apply final thinned coat.

[soundman]

If you are final finishing with any film formomg finish..varnish, pollyu, laquer, there is no benifit in sanding past 240....in fact little past 180.

This was tested and proven by fine woodworking tests.

In fact it was proven to impare adhesion.

There is only benifit to sanding much past 240 if you are using rubbed finishes, such as shelac when french polished and rubbed oil finishes

If you are using some sort of laquer, pollyU or varnish, the safest choice for a sealer is the matching sanding sealer.

remember you can use shelac as a varnish or laquer...it does not have to be french polished....and you can spray it.

You may not get the gloss off the gun that would come from a commercial laquer...but it can be done.

cheers

[LGS]

Hi,

I think I'd probably stick to Shellac. It really brings Red Cedar out beautifully!

Regards,

Rob

[Lyle]

OK, thanks for the replies.
I'll definitely stay with the shellac as a filler, I too like the effect on the Red Cedar.
I'll post up 'after' photos.
Lyle.

[soundman]

if that is the way you want to go..I'd stick with shelac for all coats and rub it out wth some wax at the end.

cheers

[Lyle]

Thans soundman, I'll take your advice.
Photos on finished job when it is....
Lyle.