Bevel up Jack Camber

[Luke Maddux]

This has probably been discussed. Apologies in advance.

I recently got a LV/Veritas Low Angle Jack Plane. My first Jack Plane, but not my first plane.

I've been reading a lot about cambering the iron on bevel up planes. I seem to be finding a considerable amount of variance in the ideas surrounding this practice. I've gotten everything from "it needs an incredibly high radius because the frog is so low" to "Lie Nielson recommends no camber at all".

So I'm looking for some commentary from people who have used both bevel up and bevel down jack planes and can comment on the functionality of various relative camber radii. I've seen a few math-heavy explanations and I understand all of the theory, but I am hoping for some personal experience moreso than all of that.

FYI I currently have the camber very slight. Similar to my smoother. I feel like across or diagonal to the grain I'm getting big shavings but maybe they could be bigger? or easier to get?

That's why I'm here.

Look forward to your feedback.

Luke

[derekcohen]

Hi Luke

I have gone through this many times, so apologise for sending you to the article I wrote several years ago - but it is still the definitive one:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Woodwor...aneBlades.html

In a nutshell, all BU blades should have a 25 degree primary bevel - you can use a hollow or a flat bevel. It does not matter. For a jack plane (that removes waste ++) grind in a 8" radius at 25 degrees - see the article. For a smoother, add the high angle and camber as a secondary micro bevel to the 25 degree primary bevel.

Do not use blades with bevels higher than 25 degrees if you plan to add a camber. The high angle is added as a secondary micro bevel.

Regards from Perth

Derek