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Thread: Quiz for August 3rd
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3rd August 2005, 09:39 PM #1Novice
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Quiz for August 3rd
The last questions seemed a little hard for most of you (Bruce excepted)
So an easier question for today.
If you are making some wall frames how do you make the smoothest possible wall ?
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3rd August 2005, 09:41 PM #2
With smooth wood?
Photo Gallery
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3rd August 2005, 09:44 PM #3
Onya Alias
String line diagonally from corner to corner??
Fer crikeys' sake do not please do not tell me it involves handplanes :eek:Bruce C.
catchy catchphrase needed here, apply in writing to the above .
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3rd August 2005, 09:46 PM #4
Don't use wood. Especially pine.
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3rd August 2005, 09:49 PM #5
Use 1/2" stainless steel plate glued to the frames
Not only smooth but stays that way
Useless infomation for the day
About a third of all Americans flush the toilet while they're still sitting on it.
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3rd August 2005, 09:54 PM #6Registered
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Only ever, ever, use Smoothiie Woodiie
Aliie
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3rd August 2005, 10:14 PM #7
Call Bluey from Milla Milla, he's a F'n ace at fixing crook walls & ceilings.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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3rd August 2005, 10:27 PM #8
By "smooth" do you mean the finished surface of the wall? That's usually what "smooth" refers to, the finished texture or lack thereof. Maybe you mean "true", as in plumb and straight, without any bows. If I wanted smmoth, I'd clad in plasterboard and make sure all the screws and joints were well set and sanded. Of course you could end up with a wall that's out of plumb, racked, bowed and twisted, but smoothe as a babies bum
Mick the smart@r$3"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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3rd August 2005, 11:58 PM #9Retired
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Oh Charlie.
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4th August 2005, 12:21 AM #10Oldhand
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I would assemble the frame flat on the the floor before standing - that way the wall is as flat and straight ("smooth"?) as you can get with the timber that is supplied.
Avergooday
Aussieglen
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4th August 2005, 07:53 AM #11
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4th August 2005, 12:03 PM #12Originally Posted by bitingmidge
foil wall paper is SMOOOTHI try and do new things twice.. the first time to see if I can do it.. the second time to see if I like it
Kev
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4th August 2005, 11:24 PM #13Novice
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The ANSWER.
By smooth I meant a wall that looks even and not undulating. Many otherwise good DIY jobs are spoiled by walls that wave in and out.
STUDS
Studs are only relatively straight (within certain tolerances) which means many if not most studs have an edgewise bow.
Sort them out and use the worst studs for noggins and trimmers etc.
When you nail studs to the wall plates keep all the bows up.
By keeping all the bows the same direction there is a lot less wall straightening needed than if some studs bow one way and other studs bow the other direction.
WALL PLATES
Use the straightest timber for the top plates. These are a little harder to straighten than bottom plates. Bows in bottom plates are more easily straightened by levering it to a stringline when nailing it to the frame.
After the framing is finished but before plastering or lining use a straightedge horizontally across the wall to identify high spots and trim them with an electric plane. ( If you are a dark sider then by all means do it by hand but this will take far far longer than with electric plane) The studs only need to be straight within 1 to 1 1/2 mm.
I might have forgotten something else helpful to the DIY brigade but I'm sure the other chippies online will soon point these omissions out.
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4th August 2005, 11:37 PM #14
I pulled all the sheeting of the sheyety job, then Bluey from Mila Milla came along & put string line marks all around the room about 10mm out from the crook warped battons & the nailed new 50mm (?) square battons to the old ones using a level as he went. Then he put up new sheeting over the whole job & it looked like a millions dollars when he was finished. The whole room ended up 10mm smaller from every wall & ceiling but it was a MUCH better job.
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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15th August 2005, 12:41 AM #15Senior Member
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put a saw cut into the hollow of the bowed studs and drive a wedge into then fit a cleat to the side of the stud to where the cut is for strength.
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