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Thread: Sheet Metal Folder WIP
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28th March 2014, 04:01 PM #46GOLD MEMBER
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Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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28th March 2014, 06:05 PM #47GOLD MEMBER
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Shoulder bolt looks like what I'm thinking of.(couldn't find many pictures of fitted bolts, but the ones I found were pretty much the same).
The problem is by making useful in sheer they aren't going to be nearly as good in tension.
Stuart
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29th March 2014, 07:24 AM #48SENIOR MEMBER
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The cylinders of steam locomotives are held on with fitted bolts.
The thread is machined with the normal clearance and the shank is machined to tolerance for the reamed holes in the cylinder and the side frames of the locomotive.
The bolts are quite often still shiney when they are removed years later indicating the closeness of the fit.
Phil
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29th March 2014, 07:54 AM #49GOLD MEMBER
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Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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29th March 2014, 09:03 AM #50Philomath in training
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Actually Simon, that's how it it is sometimes done with dowels if you are looking for a fit that will hold an exact location - bolt the parts up and drill through. (Sometimes one side is predrilled to make it easier to drill in-situ.). If you are spot on accurate you could drill both sides of your dowel holes and then assemble but the degree of difficulty goes up considerably if you have more than one dowel and/ or only a little clearance on the bolts.
Michael
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29th March 2014, 11:07 AM #51GOLD MEMBER
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The plates that will ultimately be doweled and bolted to the end plates will be positioned first, without the bottom beam attached. I'm hoping that it will then be a matter of sitting the top plate in place and lining it up, clamping, tacking and then removal for stitch welding. I'll make up a leaf hinge pin that is turned to a point and one end, then mill 3/4 off it. This will leave a flat in both dimensions of the axis to line up the edge of the beam.
Thats the grand plan anyway.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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29th March 2014, 11:18 AM #52GOLD MEMBER
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Just had a think about what I said above. It does not make sense! I don't need to turn a point, just mill it half way so it's half round for about 15mm. I can then place it in the hinge, turn the flat so it's facing the rear. This will set the front/back position of the beam. Then rotate so the flat faces upwards, then this will set the height of the beam. Clamp and tac in place. That should get me to within the required tolerance (say 5 - 10 thou) for such a part.
What could possibly go wrong!?
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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4th April 2014, 02:01 PM #53
Unmentioned in another thread, Simon and I have now acquired all the materials to go ahead with our two builds. Picked up the last required steel plates from the guy who cut them for us. All looking good.
Cheers,
JoeCheers,
Joe
9"thicknesser/planer, 12" bench saw, 2Hp Dusty, 5/8" Drill press, 10" Makita drop saw, 2Hp Makita outer, the usual power tools and carpentry hand tools...
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4th April 2014, 04:24 PM #54GOLD MEMBER
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Hey Joe, that's very nicely cut. I had no idea you could oxy that cleanly.
I better pull my finger out, finish my poor man's DRO and get back into!Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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6th April 2014, 07:57 PM #55GOLD MEMBER
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7th April 2014, 08:07 AM #56
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20th September 2014, 03:49 PM #57GOLD MEMBER
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Hi all, progress on my sheet metal folder has been slow but steady. I should be ready for some updated photos soon. One question that I have been meaning to ask, wrt the lubrication, I will need to create several lubrication points for all the bushes in the pivoting sections. I am yet to do any of these, as I figure it will be one of the last jobs but I wondering whether they should be oil or grease lubricated. With the infrequent use and the small range of movement, I figure ANY lubrication will do the job. I notice that most folders these days seem to have grease nipples. I Was hoping that a small hole for an oil point, along with either a countersink or a larger drill bit for maybe 5mm deep to produce a reservoir for oil. Will this do the job? Cheers, Simon
Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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20th September 2014, 06:49 PM #58Philomath in training
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Mine has oil holes - around 4 or 5mm from memory. Like you I've seen them with grease nipples. Grease will hang around longer but as you have observed, any is better than none.
Michael
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20th September 2014, 07:58 PM #59GOLD MEMBER
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Simon from memory (14 yrs ago) I remember that oil holes was all that mine had, countersunk and 4mm holes.
Are you making it with a solid blade or with fingers (pan folder). As a suggestion, while you are still in the fabrication stage you might want to put a couple of pivot points ready for hydraulics at a later stage, it's easier to do now rather than later.
Kryn
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20th September 2014, 08:13 PM #60GOLD MEMBER
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Mate, you're killing me!
Seriously though, it's only a 1230mm sheet folder so I don't really see a future for it with hydraulics. I figure if I don't have the physical strength to lift the leaf by hand, then I'm probably asking too much from it anyway. I will however, have fingers. Mostly they will be 75mm wide but I may make some 25mm wide as well. I think I only have enough material to make about 1000mm of fingers but I can make more as required if I need the width. They are pretty easy to make.
Thanks Michael & Kryn, I'm thinking oil will be fine too.
SimonGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.