Hairline gap in mitre joint - HELP

[rod1949]

Cut a thin slither of matching timber and insert

[Simplicity]

Christos
Your thinking is spot on
On a larger scale we regular do this on facia repairs on the corners
It works quite well if your mindful
Matt

[danlei]

Like most others here I love tinkering with boxes but I have found that unless I use a REALLY accurate saw, I can never get the mitres perfect. Given that its already glued and seems solid, what about if you took about 4 or even 5mm off each corner but cut if off at 45 degrees then glue a new corner corner on perhaps out of a lighter timber for contrast. Another alternative would be to cut a square out of the corner and glue a new corner on. Straight/clean cuts always seem to produce quite good results for me and once sanded I think they look very neat and tidy.

[safari]

Hi Dengue, Have a look at Paul's great idea to solve the 45° problem. The main problem as I see it is to get the angles adding up to exactly 360°. If you do this the corners have to meet. I gave up trying to get it right on one of the cheaper SCMS and built a modified version of Pauls sled and it works brilliantly. Have not had a problem with the corners since.

https://www.woodworkforums.com/attach...3&d=1387859628

[safari]

Here is another idea that might help you out Dengue.

http://www.woodworking.com/ww/Articl...ters-6408.aspx

[Bob Willson]

Hi Dengue
Have you managed to fix this up yet?

[Dengue]

Thanks everyone for the excellent advice. I particularly like the one about using a disc sander, so will be giving that a go.

With the box I was doing, it took me 4 weeks to get some jarrah Timbermate Waxstix in Townsville. Bunnies carried every colour except jarrah. In the end I did a special order with them, but it would be 3 weeks or more before they placed the order.

In the end I got sick of waiting, and was so disappointed with the original mitre joint result, so I cut the box up carefully and rebuilt it 24mm smaller in width and breadth, same height. The rebates and slots were OK, just recut the base slots where I had glued the 4mm plywood base in.

Fortunately the silky oak lid was a floating lid, so I recovered most of it, just had to cut new rebates on it.

Did not do the hidden spline this time, which I think was the cause of the original problem, but did corner keys instead. Will post photos soon

[AlexS]

If you use the method shown in Safari's link, beware of wearing the job! It's OK on the down-going side of the disk, but on the up-going side, it will try to throw the job into your eye - DAMHIKT!