Thanks: 2
Likes: 4
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 22 of 22
Thread: Silver Glide
-
19th July 2014, 12:09 PM #16
pker, I appreciate that you live near or on the coast, but have you tried good old paste wax (any timber wax)? The reason I suggest it is because I really REALLY hate the grey impressions that I get from SG on the thicknesser into the wood. This happens because of the very great pressure from the thicknesser rollers. The machine was delivered with SG already on it and it drove me nuts until it wore off (I also rubbed some of it off when applying the wax). I need it more for slip than rust.
I know G15 is excellent for rust prevention, but I'd be concerned about it interfering with finishes, because it never dries and will easily get onto the timber as a result.
-
20th July 2014, 12:01 PM #17
Thank you Aussie Roy & Fence Furniture for your input .
I have not tried wax as I was worried about the effect on finish problems . but in saying that I have always cleaned the sawtop with multipurpose thinners before use for that reason. Do you clean the wax off before using the machine ?
I will keep an eye on it as the towel is cotton (moisture) & maybe replace with old wool blanket. Will check out SG links.
Thank you
pker
-
20th July 2014, 12:08 PM #18
I onlyuse it on the Jointer and Thicknesser tables. On the jointer it doesn't matter because that layer of timber is taken off anyway. On the thicknesser table it may result in wax being transferred to a finished face, but I'm always going to hand-plane it or sand it anyway.
A quick rub over the face with white spirits should remove any residual wax that gets transferred.
It may be a different story using a tablesaw because you may be running a finished face over it.
-
24th July 2014, 05:39 PM #19
I haven't used SG yet but am thinking about ordering some for the Tough wood lathe bed. Finished faces shouldn't be a problem.
Rather than old towels or blankets, I've had a lot of success with a cheap BBQ cover. The elasticised skirt fits around the lathes stand very well.
-
24th July 2014, 07:30 PM #20Senior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Canberra
- Posts
- 318
-
26th July 2014, 11:48 AM #21GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Aug 2005
- Location
- Queensland
- Posts
- 2,137
Have heard much anti plastic advice as covers over the years. However, I have had success using those blue plastic tarps over my machinery. The main difference is I don't place it flat on the surfaces. I place surplus 100mm PVC fittings on the surface which makes the tarp seem like a mini tent over the machinery - it really only touches the edges and provides an air gap over the surface. Removal of the tarp and fittings takes only a few seconds.
I have a steel steel shed which is not lined so condensation forming on the ceiling is always a potential problem - fortunately, the ceiling is 3.6m at the peak and condensation falling does not appear to be a major problem. Should it ever become a problem the "tenting" of the tarps should take care of it.
Just another thought to add to the mix.
-
26th July 2014, 01:22 PM #22
The Silver Glide.
Hi to you all,
I have been using S/G for many years, never had a problem, as I was told right from the start that you only use " Very Little S/G " on any steel surface.
So if you are getting S/G on your wood, then you will know how to fix that, very simple, Don't Use So Much.
Never ever have I had the Tail Stock or the Banjo Slip.
So, I Clean the Bed or Table down with a very used 400G Paper, wipe clean with a towel or rag, then apply the S/G sparingly.Regards,
issatree.
Have Lathe, Wood Travel.