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Thread: Filling End Grain
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4th July 2014, 12:24 AM #1Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2001
- Location
- Sheffield, Tasmania
- Posts
- 14
Filling End Grain
I tried searching the words in the Title but got no response so I'm asking the question. Sorry if it's been asked before.
The boss lady in the BIG shed asked me to make a central bench for the kitchen in the new house. (1200x750x100 top)
I stupidly suggested a butchers block top. I won't go into the fun and games I had in making it - suffice to say it wasn't the easiest project I've ever attempted! Anyway, it's now made and the time has come to finish the top. One of the mistakes I made was to make it out of Tassie Oak - not only was it hard on the tools, it weighs a ton. When it's smooth I plan on filling the many resin voids with epoxy. However, even after considerable sanding Tassie Oak end grain is far from smooth.
Can anyone suggest a filler I could use prior to finishing. Also, some recommendation on the best finish would be appreciated. Looking for a durable surface with a nice luster.
Regards
BadgerBadger - A gruff short tempered animal that sleeps most of the winter
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7th July 2014, 04:38 PM #2Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2012
- Location
- Sydney
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- 32
!
would love to see a picture!
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7th July 2014, 06:10 PM #3
How about a fairly rich mix of shellac? I haven't used it specifically as a filler, but it seems to soak into the grain quite well and sand pretty smooth. It's food safe (used on boiled lollies) and gives a good finish, either by itself or after sanding and coating with oil.
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7th July 2014, 07:00 PM #4
Good Morning Badger
I have not used shellac as Alex suggests, but I have used both epoxy and polyurethane in a similar manner - usually in a process leading to faux french polishing. My technique is as follows:
- Do not use any commercially available filler or wood dust as filler in end grain as the filler is always obvious and looks 'orrible.
- After fine sanding, vacuum clean and then wipe with solvent (turps or acetone) to remove all dust.
- Pint on a coat of clear epoxy or estapol, wait ten minutes, then rub lightly with a clean, lint-free rag. This forces resin into the grain.
- When dry, repeat step 3, until grain is totally filled. Wet surface will be uniformly shiny when this happens. Usually 2 or 3, but sometimes 6+ coats required.
- Apply 2 or 3 more coats but do not rub off. Sand lightly with very fine 500 or 600 grit between coats.
- Let cure for a week, then rub on 3 coats of danish oil.
Result is faux french polish - looks the goods, but is not vunerable to heat or spilt alcohol. Might be worth doing a practice board first.
Fair Winds
Graeme
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8th July 2014, 01:20 AM #5
Hi Badger, I haven't had to do this, but have read an article or two on what needs to be done
think of end grain as being a bundle of straws end grain. Until each straw is totally full of finish the grain is not filled.
Most available finishes are non toxic once the solvent has evaporated or the drying/setting reaction is complete.
Greame's technique with clear epoxy sounds a fast way of filling the strawsregards from Alberta, Canada
ian
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8th July 2014, 09:21 AM #6Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2001
- Location
- Sheffield, Tasmania
- Posts
- 14
Thanks Guys.
That was just the advice I was looking for.
If it turns out OK I'll post a couple of pictures. If you ask really nicely, I'll even embarrass myself and include some of the pics I have taken while making the brute. (Anything happens to this one - I'll NEVER make another!!!)
BadgerBadger - A gruff short tempered animal that sleeps most of the winter
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12th July 2014, 09:04 AM #7
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