How long should Shellac flakes take to dissolve?

[JDarvall]

I'm yet to test either of them on timber, but that may be inconclusive as it could all to easily be poor technique in that process. Shellac application is something that I have to do "rather a lot" of practice on.

Its not that hard. I can get a good result, so its definitely not hard.

somethings I try to remind myself of before I start….

- morning and afternoon light is the best time. Natural lights best for watching for build lines. And the suns raking the most then. The best times, when I actually enjoy doing it, is in winter on a sunny day. Because my shed door faces north and you get more of the sun coming through and you don't cook like in summer.

- forget it if its raining. Forget it if its foggy outside. White blooming.

- blow out all the dust before you start. dust apparently reduces clarity. apparently.

- Get it on as thick as possible initially. don't worry too much about build lines at this time, because you can get them with grit between coats anyway. If you don't try to get it on thick at anytime, you could be coating forever.

- tight swirls of the pad IMO doesn't really speed filling the pores. Going with the grain all the time is fine.

- Don't attempt to apply coats if the previous coat is still a bit sticky. might tear it. Can apply say half a dozen coats in a session anyway before you should walk away for a bit. If you've got a big piece to coat, often by the time you get around the whole piece the place you started is dry enough to keep going with little need for rest periods.

- Before every new session rub back the whole area lightly so it doesn't feel ruff (say 600grit). Sand off the build lines. The sanding actually speeds the build up faster I've noticed because all the white dust fills the pores. So don't air blast the dust out. The dust from the sanding actually works like a lubricant in a way. After sanding make your first coat mostly Meth. Because if you don't, some of this dust in the pours won't dissolve clear again and sticks out. Want it gone before you build too high. Don't need to use a oil as a lubricant. Interfers with the bond a little apparently.

- They say don't attempt to pop the grain before coating any shellac with say Boiled linseed oil. That the shellac will do it itself. I think thats true on some timbers. But on other timbers I've noticed the BLO actually does pop it far more. And if your using yellow shellac it doesn't matter if the oil yellows a bit…etc

- When you get to the point where the surfaces looks thick enough, thin the mix. I squirt say just a little shellac in pad, then meth straight after. And then with only the smallest amount on the pad, put heavy fingertip pressure and a lot of little swirls, and you can actually smooth it out so well you can smooth out small build lines. The goal being to get a finish thats so good , with just meth on the pad, that you don't need to even rub out. Cause shellac is already high gloss. As soon as you start rubbing out it cleans up the imperfections shore, but you start again at say satin.

- Always Do it with raking light ! .. If don't, you'll miss the build lines .

- Good time to listen to music, to deal with the borden

its just an opinion. I am not a shellac expert. I am just sharing some ideas.

goodluck.

[FenceFurniture]

Thanks very much for all that detail Jake. I know perzackly what you mean about raking light, and I have a couple of big north facing windows in the shed too.

[JDarvall]

Thanks very much for all that detail Jake. I know perzackly what you mean about raking light, and I have a couple of big north facing windows in the shed too.

no worries…… I hope you understand these are just reminders I try to give MYSELF…….not trying to tell YOU how to suck eggs…… only risking telling MYSELF how to suck eggs.

It really does sound like a stupid thing to say I know , but for me, the main difference between a good and bad result with shellac is taking effort in seeing the reflective surface of your work. And its not there all the time during the day, so I get out of the habit of looking for it…. happens when I get tired and daydream. or get distracted.

But all this is under the assumption that a perfectly flat plastic looking finish is a good finish.

[soundman]

On the matter of why it is called Metho..or metholated spirit.

In times past Methanol was mixed into the ethanol to prevent it being sold for drinking.....people come up with all sorts of reasons ...but it was the tax man..no doubt.....drinking alcahol is taxed at a much higher level....always was.

The problem was.....the poor people still drank it and the unscrupulous used it in products for human consumption....the methanol sent people blind, insane and in some cases killed them.

Methanol is poisonous.

The methanol was also a problem in some ligitamate industrial processes..like french polishing...the methanol was equally dangerous when absorbed thru the skin, by people who handled products containg ethanol.

So most modern Metho or as the americans call it denatured alcahol, has been "denatured" by introduction of a purpose made bittering agent...Bitrex and Aversion are common commercial products...

so in this day and age most metho is ethanol with some remnant water and a bittering agent.

If ethanol was purchase as a fuel for use in vehicles or for human consumption it would be taxed at a much higher rate.

If it was vehicle fuel it would attract a tax of about 40 cents a litre compounded with the GST
If you are buying your alcahol in beer you would be paying about $30 a litre tax on the alcahol content...or about $16 tax on a slab off heavy beer.

It all becomes clear now..doesn't it

cheers

[Fuzzie]

It all becomes clear now..doesn't it

Unless you are buying cheap drinks in Bali.
https://au.lifestyle.yahoo.com/marie...rinks-warning/

[soundman]

Well there you go...if you want to reduce your risks in life CONsiderably....don't buy cheap drinks..and don't go to Bali.

cheers