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Thread: Kreg insert plate issues
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1st May 2014, 10:42 PM #1
Kreg insert plate issues
Hey routing gurus.
A while back up installed a kreg insert router plate in a thick top made out of pine.
I thought it was 'flat enough' when I installed it but since using the gifkins a fair bit on it its not good enough.
So a new top is on the plans but because I primarily use it for gifkins work I was considering 2 options. Build gifkins style top and fences etc and keep it simple. Or instsll the kreg in a new top. My issue with the kreg that I cannot for the life of me get a perfect hole that matches the profile of the kreg.
I put the kreg plate on mdf template then trace. I use forstner bits in corners that are like 98% fit to the radius of the curve. Then I doublesided tape or drill in timber along the straight edges and use a bearing guided bit to clean it up. I dont own a bobbin sander so its hard for me to get a smooth finish right in the corners without a forstner bit.
How have others installed these router plates and do you get any light or gaps around any part of the plate?
I can get a real nice fit but since the woodpeckers have a shop bought mdf template to use I want to create my own for a nice finished top as I dont want to make multiple router tables. Just want to make one correctly and use it for years to come
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2nd May 2014, 08:02 AM #2
Lay the insert where you want it. Use mdf strips and tape them to the table next to the edges of the insert plate. Tape another piece of mdf in the center for the router to ride on. Rout out 3/8" or whatever you need for the plate thickness, leaving room for leveling screws. Use a 1/2" bit with top bearing. When finished, use a jig saw to remove the center portion, leaving the lip.
insert jig.jpg
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2nd May 2014, 11:27 AM #3GOLD MEMBER
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- May 2011
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That's the way I did it. Got a nice tight fit in a piece of laminated kitchen benchtop using a 1/2 inch pattern bit.
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2nd May 2014, 02:46 PM #4
Would you mind showing me the bit you used at all Aldav?
I used the Carbitool Inverted flush trimming bit part T 8236 B 1 at 28.6mm cutter diameter and 30mm height 1/2 shank
Beastie cutter and it would do the job but when i place the timber on the straight edges down and get into the corners with this bit it gets in too nice and tight there for creates a gap in the corners once the plate is installed.
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2nd May 2014, 03:20 PM #5
Would you mind showing me the bit you used at all Aldav?
I used the Carbitool Inverted flush trimming bit part T 8236 B 1 at 28.6mm cutter diameter and 30mm height 1/2 shank
Beastie cutter and it would do the job but when i place the timber on the straight edges down and get into the corners with this bit it gets in too nice and tight there for creates a gap in the corners once the plate is installed.
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2nd May 2014, 08:32 PM #6
The four sticks method above should give you a perfect fit if the bit radius matches the corner radius of the insert. In that situation you simply route into each corner and the radius left should match the insert perfectly.
My kreg insert is part of a kreg top, so I did not have to route the opening and I am not sure of the corner radius for the opening/insert, so can't advise on cutter to use. Its a bit cold and dark at present to get into the barn to try and measure things for you, but you should be able to do so with your insert without much agro. Pretty sure you will find that it will be an Imperial size because it comes from US.
Hope this helps.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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3rd May 2014, 10:05 AM #7GOLD MEMBER
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- May 2011
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Sorry Delbs I didn't get back here yesterday - replacing the front verandah on the house.
I should have mentioned in my reply that I was installing an aluminium plate that I made out of some 8mm scrap and therefore had the luxury of rounding the corners to the same radius as the bit I was intending to use. I didn't think about you having to work with a predetermined fixed radius. Malb has hit the nail on the head with his advice.
I used a straight 1/2" pattern bit like this http://www.carbatec.com.au/811b-812b...-guides_c17530
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3rd May 2014, 10:20 AM #8
When the guide pieces, of MDF, are in place cut the corners with a forstner, of the correct radius, before using the pattern bit.
Those were the droids I was looking for.
https://autoblastgates.com.au
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3rd May 2014, 04:08 PM #9
Thanks all for the replies. I am routing right into the corner with the bits of timber surrounding the trace but i must have the wrong sized bit to match the 3/4" diamter of the kreg plate. I can get a good fit but still the template i make is that bit more tighter of a radius than the bit ive got so theres gaps. ill keep trying different variations. Also ill try my forstner bits again.
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11th May 2014, 10:29 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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- Oct 2003
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Looking at it all from outside the box, grease up the router plate with Vaseline or its generic equivalent, mix up some builder's bog/panel filler or other thickened epoxy. Trowel the epoxy into the slightly over sized opening then insert the greased plate - use a straight piece of timber on top to make sure the plate ends up level with the table top, you may want to clamp the timber to the table top and the plate to the timber. When the epoxy is 'off' but not at full strength - couple of hours? - carefully remove the plate carefully & trim any thin squeeze out with a utility knife. When the fill is at full strength sand any bits that are sticking up above table height down to level.
If you didn't adequately grease up the router plate you should be able to recover it at the 'off' stage of epoxy setting and just chisel out the epoxy ready for another go - just don't leave it overnight.