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23rd February 2014, 12:25 AM #1Golden Member
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Avoiding drips when using a paint brush
Hi folks,
Hopefully someone can help me out here. I'm currently staining some pine with a stain/varnish mix by Wattyl. I'm not that great with a brush, so keen for some tips. Flat surfaces are fine, but I'm having trouble with the edges. Is there a particular technique to using a paint brush and not getting drips over the edges?
Have tried using a clean rag to apply the stain instead but it doesn't seem to take.
Thanks,
Af.___________________________________________________________
"The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me."
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23rd February 2014, 07:43 AM #2
I am not an expert when it comes to painting so my ideas might be a little different to the normal.
When I fill the brush with paint for example I tap the side of the can to get rid of the excess paint. Both sides of the brush. I use this procedure for all types of application.
One thing to note paint is a little thicker then your varnish so it does tend to flow a bit less. The next thing that I consider it not to fill the whole brush with the liquid that I am going to apply. I dip about under a third of the brush in the liquid then tap the sides with the tip of the brush as mention about. This gives me control of the amount of liquid to apply for the first touch of the item that I am coating.
As for the edges I prefer to have the brush flow off the surface like a sweeping motion lifting the brush as it hits air. I can then check and see if there are drip or runs and just quickly touch this with the tip of the brush. Better to have very little on the liquid on the brush at this stage.
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23rd February 2014, 03:15 PM #3Golden Member
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Thanks Christos. I guess slowly slowly is the right approach here. I've taken to using painters tape all over the piece as I practice this, but hoping I'll get better so I don't need to use a whole roll of it next time!
___________________________________________________________
"The things I make may be for others, but how I make them is for me."
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23rd February 2014, 03:59 PM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Christos has given good advice and as you say keep on practising.
I would add that good quality brushes are a worthwhile investment. If they are cleaned out properly after each use, they last for ages.Tom
"It's good enough" is low aim
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23rd February 2014, 05:07 PM #5rrich Guest
Generally, brush toward and over the edge. When brushing from the edge, the edge scrapes the brush and makes drips.
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25th February 2014, 01:07 AM #6
G'day Afro
Best bet.... Stain first then varnish after stain has dried and you will get a far better result than using a stain varnish.
As Christos and others said, work towards the edges (from both ends) and allow the brush to flow off the timber with an upwards action as you reach the end. This will stop drips. Use a smaller brush or just the tip of the brush and care for ends and edges.
Don't use a $2 brush and don't use a paint brush. Get a good varnish brush. It should last for years if looked after and the difference will be amazing. Apply the varnish with long straight strokes, lightly overlapping successive strokes. Do not slop it on willy-nilly as you would when applying paint to a wall.
Take it easy and don't rush. A slower steadier and more controlled brush stroke will win out over a hurried one any day.
Practise on some scrap until you have perfected your application technique, rather than jumping into the deep end boots and all on a good project.
Hope this is of some help.
Cheers - Neil
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26th February 2014, 10:08 AM #7
AND...don't forget to thin your varnish.
If you are trying to get a good finish straight out of the tin...you WILL struggle.
you do not need to thin much...%5 to %10 MAX.
If what you are using is polyeurathane....and the popular domestic brands, it will not tolerate over thinning....the resin strength will suffer, it will tend to go cloudy, drying will be inconsistent and the varnish wont harden up properly.
I have found using "white spirit", ( that IS "white spirit" not metho), the varnish tolerates thinning better and it behaves more consistently, because it does not have the oil in it that mineral turps has.
I'll give you a big tip.....go and buy Neils book....."A polishers handbook"....some of it will be beyond what you are doing now.....but you will bless the day.
I am sure there is a link to its somewhere on this site or you can buy it from most good specilist woodworking suppliers.
cheersAny thing with sharp teeth eats meat.
Most powertools have sharp teeth.
People are made of meat.
Abrasives can be just as dangerous as a blade.....and 10 times more painfull.
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