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8th January 2014, 04:48 PM #91
Hi Paul,
I have that style punch, and it's ok up to 20 thou in spring steel, beyond that you need long bits of pipe on the handles... I prefer drilling when you get thicker than 20 thou.
I've been searching for decent carbide drill bits, and just yesterday a couple of these arrived, so I'm keen to see how they go. The last solid carbide drill bits I tried chipped on the first try, but that was probably my fault as I didn't secure the plate..
90 DEGREE CARBIDE SPOT DRILL #L38
I'll be giving them a trial run in a few days time.
Other alternatives are things like re-worked masonry drills, and the bunnings carbide tipped drill bits I showed at the class.
Ordinary cobalt HSS will drill spring steel as well. Not ideal, but does work, and if they lose the edge they go downhill fast.
Ray
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8th January 2014, 07:13 PM #92
Hi Stewie,
Sorry I didn't mention was using heaps of cutting fluid .
Drill bits used were 2.5/4/6.5/8.
All new it does the job I suppose .I'm to use to just mild steel with those loverly ribbons ,
Tho I just had a thought I might try spot weld drill bits I have a few some were(being an ex panel beater ).
Will see how they go.
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8th January 2014, 09:14 PM #93
Ok just found a spot weld cutter
6mm.
Gave it a go on some saw plate and it went ok lots of cutting fluid as standard a little bluing and smoke.
But the hole was nice and clean
Medium speed on the drill press
But the cutter was old and how many spot welds it has done no idea
But I was pleasantly surprised
A new bit would be a lot better ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389175988.297200.jpg
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8th January 2014, 10:12 PM #94Deceased
- Join Date
- May 2008
- Location
- Australia
- Posts
- 2,306
I use the black oxide drill bits with the cutting fluid with very good results.
Black oxide is an inexpensive black coating. A black oxide coating provides heat resistance and lubricity, as well as corrosion resistance. Coating increases the life of high-speed steel bits.
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8th January 2014, 11:09 PM #95
Just Goolge them they look like they could be a go to
Will have to find some I think
Thanks
Stewie
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9th January 2014, 05:24 AM #96
Hi Matt,
I use this for punching plates:
Whitney Jensen No 5.jpg
It is a Whitney Jensen No. 5 Junior sheet metal punch. I think these are still made. I have never tried the cheaper knock off's. This works great with any size of punch/die on plates 0.020" and thinner. It makes about 1 ton pressure. I am on the lookout for a heavier punch so I can do larger holes in 0.032" plates. On thicker steel I typically start with a 1/8" or 5/32" hole and then ream to size with these tapered reamers:
Tapered reamers.jpg
This method allows me to get pretty much any size hole I need.
I have tried drilling and grinding saw steel and found it to be a slow, painful and inaccurate process.
Rob
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9th January 2014, 10:03 AM #97
Hi Rob
Do the reams work out ok in the saw plate
I've been thinking about getting a set
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9th January 2014, 01:20 PM #98
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9th January 2014, 02:15 PM #99
They work really well. If you get a set remember to never turn them backward as doing so could damage the cutting edge. So far I am extremely happy with the results. The reamers allow for the careful adjustment of the hole sizes in both the stock and the plate such that they fit the screw shanks very nicely unlike the misshapen holes that are so easily made by a standard twist drill. I'm waiting on the bearings I mentioned earlier - then I will bore all pieces to be perfectly aligned with the reamers. I'll post the results.
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9th January 2014, 02:23 PM #100
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9th January 2014, 02:24 PM #101
Hi Paul, nice to meet you.
I don't remember exactly but I believe the hole diameter part of the punch shank is 4 to 6 mm long for most of the sizes in the kit. I will measure mine and post a picture tomorrow. I have heard over the years that the Whitney Jensen and Roper Whitney punches and dies are the very best. People say that they last for many years without needing replacement. Some punches have apparently been passed down between generations of users. That's why I spent more to get the one I have. Properly adjusted it can punch 0.025" spring steel. I am looking for a bigger one because I want to punch much thicker stuff, up to 1/4". In setting it up you screw the die (bottom) in only to the point that the handle is about 2.0 to 1.5 inches from being fully closed with a piece of the steel you are working under the punch. If you screw it in too far the press does not have enough leverage to pierce the steel and then you need to put pipes on the handles.
Rob
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9th January 2014, 03:02 PM #102
Hi Rob,
I think you should be looking for a fly press, for those sort of thicknesses.
The tonnage required to punch 1/4 would be way more than you could apply with a hand punch.
A 1/4" hole in 1/4" mild steel would require 6 tons. ( you shouldn't punch a hole smaller than the material thickness)
For spring steel saw plate, the shear strength is 4 times that of mild steel, and for example a 1/4" hole in 30 thou plate it requires almost 3 tons.
A fly press is a very usefull thing to have for punching saw teeth as well.
Ray
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10th January 2014, 07:41 AM #103
The hole-diameter section of the punches are right at 7mm long. This is the 3/16" punch.
punch photo.jpg
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10th January 2014, 07:48 AM #104
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10th January 2014, 08:00 AM #105
I have said that, Paul, but I was talking about specific drills viz., 'builders' drills (the ones with pictures on the packet showing them punching through wood, masonry & metal). I'm not sure about other carbide-tipped drills, though I bought a cheapie from McJings which works fine dry(after I sharpened it!). For HSS drills, cutting fluid would be essential, & even then you are going to chew them up rapidly - one or two clean holes between sharpenings is as much as you can expect.
For the sort of (very) small-volume production I do, drilling works well for me - it's convenient, & accurate (provided I'm careful!).
Cheers,IW