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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Maitland
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    Default Do I need to resin these burls for my projects?

    Gday Everyone.

    I sourced all these burl slices Western Aus Sheoak for $55.


    Now I make desktop items and plan to use these as a top feature to my pieces.
    ie a bottom made of easily sourced timber with a layer of this burl Pva'd on top.
    Here is an example of an item. You can see drill of up to 25 mm holes and routed edges.


    I take it would be advisable to resin the burls so they can be worked without busting apart?
    I am totally new to this. :/

    I can source resin, but not sure how to go about doing it with the burl slices.
    I have seen vids on casting blanks etc but not on preping a burl slice piece.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thankyou Bob

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Nerang Queensland
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    67
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    Default

    Not sure what you are after. I think you are referring to putting a veneer layer of burl on top? Not sure how thick those slices are, but unless they are very thin, I think they will not look right on top of the pine anyway (but that is just me).

    Anyway, burl like that does not need stabilization, and it is then up to yourself if you fill the holes/cracks etc with resin. If you go that way, the easiest way is to glue on the burl to the pine before you do anything, then place a seal around the edge with hot melt glue. On a horizontal table, then fill it up with resin tinted or clear whatever, after setting then sand it all back flat. Then make your holes/whatever and top coat/polish.

    Cheers
    Neil
    ____________________________________________
    Every day presents an opportunity to learn something new

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Maitland
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    0

    Default

    Gday Neil

    Thankyou for replying. Yes like a veneer top but thickness of the burl.
    I would probably do a camhpor base as I have plenty of that.
    I an not concerned to much about a porous look at the top/sides, I am more concerned that a burl would crumble with working.
    Particularly keeping a uniformed routed edge and intact hole edges.

    I am thinking of doing this after a bit of reading.

    Make the base in the shape I want. Rough cut the burl to shape of base.
    Soak the burl piece in some wood hardner and dry.
    Glue burl to base, set, then use base as guide with trim router.
    Do the edging/holes on the burl.

    Probably polycoat.

    Do you know if burl can be sent through a thicknesser at all attached to plank?
    Looking for a flat finish to glue the pieces together.

    Once again, thanks for the prompt reply.

    cheers Bob

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
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    0

    Default Do I need to resin these burls for my projects?

    I think it would be asking for trouble to put that thickness burl through the thicknesser, I think there would be a reasonable chance it would disintegrate. If trying to smooth it out prob best use a disc sander...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You can never have enough planes, that is why Mr Stanley invented the 1/2s

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Maitland
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    0

    Default

    Gday Router

    I ended up puting a barometer sized blank through. Came out OK without the resin.

    The burl is quiet solid and compact, no funkyness at all.

    Here are some pics.


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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Default

    Its come up nice. Well done.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You can never have enough planes, that is why Mr Stanley invented the 1/2s

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Maitland
    Posts
    0

    Default

    TY 8)

    Also made some clocks as xmas presents. Routers are awesome. lols


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