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Thread: Sporterising a Swedish Mauser
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14th October 2013, 09:22 PM #16
No worries I will. A mate of mine bought 1 for his Remington .223 2 years ago and it was a simple drop in fit though he did bed the barrel. He is pretty happy with it and has just ordered another stock for his .243 so I reckon they are the way to go.
PeteWhat this country needs are more unemployed politicians.
Edward Langley, Artist (1928-1995)
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16th October 2013, 11:01 PM #17
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16th October 2013, 11:21 PM #18
yep you're right I meant bed the receiver. Some days it pays to look at the screen before hitting enter
PeteWhat this country needs are more unemployed politicians.
Edward Langley, Artist (1928-1995)
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24th October 2013, 10:55 AM #19GOLD MEMBER
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24th October 2013, 06:18 PM #20
Just the opposite! The idea is to avoid having the barrel vibrating against the forestock. Google "floating a rifle barrel" to get the idea.There are also some gizmos that can be fitted near the muzzle to reduce the barrel resonance and tighten up grouping.
There's also a whole science on barrel lengths and projectile lengths all aimed at reducing barrel resonance with the aim of decreasing group size.
Bedding the receiver is just one of many methods that can be used for increasing accuracy.
Grahame
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24th October 2013, 07:29 PM #21
Actually, things are not that black and white when it comes to accurizing a rifle. There is a bit of black magic involved.
When it is true that today most people go for bedding the receiver and free float the barrel, not long ago it was bedd the receiver and part of the barrel, from a few inches, half way or all the way solid. Then there is pressure bedding with the stock having some pressure points to increase accuracy. All this things work sometimes and sometimes they do not. Remington had a pressure point on the stock in their model 700. Many people improve accuracy by trying different positions for a pressure point between the stock and the barrel, even a screw.. It works and then it does not. Free floating also can be just like that, you free float and it does nothing at all for accuracy.“We often contradict an opinion for no other reason
than that we do not like the tone in which it is expressed.”
Friedrich Nietzsche
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24th October 2013, 07:42 PM #22
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25th October 2013, 07:22 AM #23GOLD MEMBER
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3rd November 2013, 12:15 AM #24
Using pressure point bedding on the barrel will work but usually only for a few rounds before the group starts to string vertically.
Bedding the receiver is the most common method and generally works well across a variety of conditions and stocks.
It isnt hard if you are handy with tools and can follow directions. There's plenty on Youtube to help you.
Pillar bedding is lot more involved and not to be done to a synthetic stock without researching the composition and construction of the stock first.
An easy compound to use when bedding is any of the devcon 'metal in epoxy' products (or equivalent) except the really flexible types.
Use lots of release agent!
The barrel is way too long for a sporter, 25" is the max you need to get efficient combustion of the powder. If you still get a huge flame on firing then your load or powder type is wrong.
There is a persistent rumour originating in America that the 96 is a 'weak' action. True it does not have the third safety lug made by the handle that you will find on a 98. But if you measure the bearing surface area of the 2 forward lugs you will see it is larger than many modern actions.
The european 6.5x55 ammo is loaded to higher pressures than the pissweak US stuff yet the 96 is the most common action in Scandinavia after Sako. There is no record of them blowing up.
However use your nouse if you reload and research the loads well.
The 6.5 is a great caliber, I have a 6.5x54R. The rimmed version for single shots and drillings.
Get a good scope 4-14x50 or thereabouts and have some fun."Entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem"
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3rd November 2013, 12:58 AM #25
Theres some really good advice about the aftermarket stocks here. The Swedish Mausers are a very good rifles and if your barrel is good it is well worth the time and effort. Ive shot M96s and converted M38s. When they shoot straight there arent many rifles that come close in terms of versatility, from varminting with little pills to goats and roos at 400m with 130s and 140s. Just choose the pill that will work for your prey and go for it.
Here's a link to a bedding tutorial.
Bedding a Rifle With MatchGrade Bedding Compound
Nathan is very finicky, as he should be he's doing it for clients and charging accordingly.
I dont go to quite the lengths Nathan does as I dont do stock bedding for a living any more. I use Devcon titanium epoxy (because I can, steel or SS is just as good) and it is much more viscous than Nathan's stuff. So I dont have to dam everywhere. I also machine my pillars from 1" aluminium rod, sink them into the stock with the Devcon and then when it's all set relieve both the action sides and the barrel till only the pillars and the first 2" of the knoxform of the barrel are supported. I ensure that when the action is screwed down into the stock there is no spring or compression. It should feel like you have just nipped up 2 perfectly flat steel surfaces together and the only spring is the bolt stretch ie almost none. If there is a significant gradual increase in tension something is amiss and the action or barrel is being put under tension and will move each time you fire.
Have a read about Nathan's opinion on the 6.5 and loads, remember he is a long range specialist and that bias is obvious, nevertheless he is experienced and knows his stuff. Im hoping to shoot with him next year in Feb.
6.5x55
IMG_0636.jpgThis is my BSA Monarch in .223 rem about to be pillar bedded. Refurbished stock, handcut checkering, Tobler heavy SS match barrel. Simmons 44mag 6.5-20x44 scope (replaced with Zeiss 6.5-20x50 with varmint z plex) Please excuse the mess."Entia non sunt multiplicanda praeter necessitatem"
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20th November 2013, 05:02 PM #26
Well I bit the bullet and got the Boyd featherweight thumbhole stock and it took 12 days from order to pick up here in country SA. Mine is shown as unfinished but its as they say on their web page and I'll be starting on it tomorrow. It looks good and as I use it to hunt I will clear finish it rather than oil it. Very happy with it and at US$136 ( AU$144) cheap as chips.
PeteWhat this country needs are more unemployed politicians.
Edward Langley, Artist (1928-1995)