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Thread: Sex Bolts
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17th July 2013, 12:57 PM #1
Sex Bolts
Sex Bolts…Yeah thought that would get your attention! Apparently this is the proper name for what holds your saw handle to your saw blade. Commonly referred to as saw bolt& saw nuts or split nuts etc. A similar design is called Chicago Nuts which are used in book binding etc. but doesn't have the anti-rotation feature or stepped shank (binder posts, Barrel Nuts).
Most common ones sold to saw makers these days tend to me split nuts. The issue I see with these is as the wood shrinks, you tighten and the threads protrude.
Other variations are
Solid Brass unslotted screw with a serrated shank and a tubular slotted nut for attaching saw handles. I don't think the domed surface is as nice as a flush finish and the inside chamfer unnecessary.
These ones are cast bronze ones from Cresson and have a small squre on the shank.
Again cast version from a Disston D8
Heading Screw
Solid Brass unslotted screw with a smooth shank and a tubular slotted nut for attaching saw handles. Can be used with serrated washers
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From Bad Axe website:
Sawnuts/bolts:I chose the kind of flush-faced sawnuts/bolts commonly used in the 1870’s, with the deep-dished medallion sawnut, because again, it’s a traditional look from the Reconstruction era. I chose slotted sawbolts because split nuts are so easily deformed. I designed the fasteners such that only the sawbolts have to be unscrewed to remove the handle, leaving the sawnuts on the medallion side of the handle in place.
My question is which do you prefer and is it purely aesthetic or structural?
I think I like the idea of one similar to the Bad Axe design where the Shank of the nut is splined, stops rotation and saves making a square hole.
Also what size would you most commonly use. 7/16, ½, 9/16?…..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands
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17th July 2013, 06:06 PM #2
I was going to say......" back in the old days.....". So I gooled Dr Zogs Sex Wax, still going strong.
Home | SexwaxCheers, Bill
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17th July 2013, 07:20 PM #3
DSEL, can I put on my pedagogue's hat for a bit & plead that people use 'bolt' & 'nut' for their proper parts? They really are quite separate things.
So why not just file, sand or cut the protruding bit off? I haven't found this to bee much of a problem in practice, but in any case, I generally cut the bolt a 1/2mm short, to allow for a bit of subsequent tightening. Perhaps the woods I've used for handles are particularly stable.
I like the splined shank bolts because they are easy to fit, & grip well, but they are too hard for me to make, so I use square steps on the shank of the bolt instead. And I like to use split nuts so that I can have all of the metal flush with the surface of the wood. My second preference is for domed heads on bolt & nut. These are finger-friendly enough, more bother to make, less bother to fit.....
It's purely personal preference, of course, makes no significant difference mechanically. The more important factor is to get a good, neat fit, so the saw doesn't rattle in its handle.
I make different sizes according to the size of the cheeks on the handle, just to keep it in proportion. The smallest bolts I use have 9mm (3/8) heads & 4mm threads, the largest have 1/2 inch heads & nuts and 6mm threads. I sometimes make one bolt head larger, 5/8 or 3/4 inch, so it can be engraved with the owner's name or whatever....
Cheers,IW
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17th July 2013, 07:54 PM #4SENIOR MEMBER
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17th July 2013, 09:23 PM #5
Like they say, you don't know anything about some thing until you realise you don't know it all.
Hugh
Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.
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18th July 2013, 10:52 AM #6
Sex bolts? That can't be right, there's usually only three or four.
We don't know how lucky we are......
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18th July 2013, 11:50 AM #7
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18th July 2013, 01:01 PM #8
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28th August 2013, 12:04 AM #9
Just found another saw nut option, not trad to be sure, but could look pretty nice I think.
Acorn nuts from a knife making suppliers.
http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/cpb316.htm...I'll just make the other bits smaller.