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Thread: Cutting holes for downpipes
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29th June 2005, 08:41 PM #1
Cutting holes for downpipes
What is the best way to cut 90mm holes in quad guttering for downpipes? I have the nozzle thing to silicone/rivet in place that fits inside 90mm PVC pipe. I was trying to avoid spending $40 for a holesaw for one hole. Are aluminium rivets OK or is stainless better?
Cheers
Pulse
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29th June 2005, 08:52 PM #2
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draw your circle and get a drill bit and drill holes all the way round your mark and then snip the small pieces out.
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29th June 2005, 08:55 PM #3
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Hi
Punch a hole in the middle of where you want the main pop to be.
Use a chisel or what ever you have, frozen chop, bone, stick, they all work.
Get some good tin snips, and work your way from the hole to the size you require.
Most tradies put the pop on the outside of the gutter, rather than on the inside, saves you heaps of fiddly work.
Al
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29th June 2005, 09:04 PM #4
If its square you can use a chisel or a smaller chisel if it is round. Lie Nielsens work well for this.
Put the quad upside down on a block of 100x100 wood and mark it out. Dont forget that the spout is fluted so dont measure the end.
As for rivets I've always used the aluminium colourbond rivets. Thats what all the metal companys supply.
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29th June 2005, 09:08 PM #5
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Originally Posted by boban
Where are you??
Al
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29th June 2005, 11:29 PM #6
Pulse,
place the truncated cone section (your downpipe adaptor) in the required position on the quad.
Trace around the inside with a nikko pen.
Drill a few holes on the centre to allow you to start a tin snip in there.
Use your snips to cut a hole about 40mm dia in the centre of your mark out.
Use the snips to cut lines (radians?) from the centre to the nikko pen line, I usually cut 12.
Use pliers to bend these out to about 90deg, trial fit your adaptor and bend the lugs to get a snug fit.
Fit the adaptor with a couple of pop rivets, it helps if you've got some of those smaller vice grips with the "C" shaped jaws to hold the bits in place while you drill the rivert holes.
I usually fit two monel rivets and a bit of silicone.
I've fitted hundreds like this, no,leaks and no lip/dam on the inside=no ponding of water.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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29th June 2005, 11:34 PM #7
I just use my light sabr... opps, damn, I wasn't supposed to say that.:eek:
Cliff.
If you find a post of mine that is missing a pic that you'd like to see, let me know & I'll see if I can find a copy.
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30th June 2005, 11:15 AM #8
thanks a lot for the advice guys... will tackle it this weekend
Cheers
Pulse
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30th June 2005, 05:36 PM #9
I've fitted hundreds like this, no,leaks and no lip/dam on the inside=no ponding of water.
Mick[/QUOTE]
Mick if your fitted hundreds this way surely it would pay to buy the hole saw?
Yes I have done a few this way myself but a hole saw would be better.
I used the angle grinder underneath to clean up the bits sticking down from the tin sips.
Enough silicone will solve all your problems although do not have the down pipe adapter sticking up in the gutter
Any good luck Pulse
Pulpo
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30th June 2005, 11:22 PM #10
Pulpo,
I've got plenty of hole saws, but if you just cut a big hole, how are you going to attach your adaptor? I know there's adaptors now, both plastic and metal that have a flange on them which you can fix through, but these are fairly recent. Also I don't use silicone to fix problems, I've always worked on the pricipal that you should construct all joints and flashings as if silicone didn't exist, ie the joint, whatever should shed water by itself. thats why i cut the hole and bend lugs down, to shed the water. the silicone is only used to seal the rivets. And it goes without saying that the adaptor doesn't stick up into the gutter.
If you use good snips there are no sharp bits left sticking out so it's not neccesary to use a grinder to clean anything. If I caught anybody using a grinder on any roofing or rainwater goods they'd get their asre kicked, it adversely affects the coatings.
Mick"If you need a machine today and don't buy it,
tomorrow you will have paid for it and not have it."
- Henry Ford 1938
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1st July 2005, 09:10 AM #11
IF you are on really freindly terms with your hardware store, they MAY loan you a hole saw to do the job.
I required a 90mm hole saw last year to do a single hole while installing a range hood. The guys at my local "home hardware" were only to happy to oblige (mind you I do spend quite a bit of time and money there)
I try and do new things twice.. the first time to see if I can do it.. the second time to see if I like it
Kev
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1st July 2005, 05:40 PM #12
Mick
I have only used the ones with the flanges.
But I always put a small rim of silicone around the flange before pushing it down into place.
I find the finish with the angle grinder is better, it makes it more uniform but it could stuff things up very easily, I agree Mick its not really needed
As for the excess silicone I also concur but it was more said in jest if Pulse had a problem or stuffed something up.
Enjoy the weekend installing the down pipes.
Regards
Pulpo
I will be purchasing this size hole saw on the weekend to do some related work myself
Cheers
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